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Need Help Diagnosing Harmon Kardon Radio Intermittent Problem

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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 10:05 PM
  #1  
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Default Need Help Diagnosing Harmon Kardon Radio Intermittent Problem

I've got a few questions here...

Does anyone know if the DTCs for the radio are stored until you clear them (like ECM codes), or do they self clear when the fault goes away?

The reason I ask is I'm having an intermittent problem with my radio. If I enter the diagnostics while the problem is present I can read the code (B2017 - FL Speaker Open). But when the intermittent problem is not present I get no codes.

I assume FL Speaker Open means Front Left. Is this correct?

The actual symptom I'm experiencing is the speakers will simply shut off randomly. The first time I noticed it was about a week ago. Initially the speakers would come back on if I cycled the speaker switch on the fairing or turned the radio off and back on. But it's getting worse. Sometimes now it will take several attempts of the speaker switch and/or turning the radio on-off to get it working again.

I've checked all connections. I've wiggled all harnesses and tapped-tested all components trying to recreate the failure but I can't induce the failure. It simply occurs randomly.

I've also ran through the diagnostic procedure for the fairing switch itself and it tests ok, but since the problem is intermittent I haven't completely ruled out the switch yet.

I even switched the right and left speakers to see if the fault code would change to FR Speaker (Front Right?). Nothing! Same random failure mode, same code (B2017 FL Speaker Open).

Initially I was thinking the fairing switch was the culprit because I could toggle it once and the speakers would come back on. But that is no longer the case. Now it usually takes several toggles and then only maybe the speakers come back on. Other times I have to perform multiple on-off cycles of the radio.

Now as the problem is becoming worse (more frequent and longer duration) and I've been able to read the fault code (B2017) because the problem hangs around long enough to allow that, I'm thinking the problem is more likely in the head unit itself, or the wire harness.

My bike is still under warranty and I guess I'm going to have to take it in (reluctantly) because this is looking like some big bucks if I try to fix it myself. I'd sure like to be fairly certain what the problem is before taking it in this Thursday.

Any ideas out there? Thanks in advance.

P.S. - The ironic thing about this whole situation is that I hardly ever use the radio. But since the bike has a radio, and I paid for it in the price of the bike, it had better work - especially while it's still under warranty.
 

Last edited by 2black1s; Nov 1, 2011 at 10:57 PM.
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 10:50 PM
  #2  
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warranty- use it.

open means open circuit, and it could be anywhere from the connector on the radio through the speaker back to speaker -

let them chase it down and maybe find any other associated problems.

mike
 
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 11:41 PM
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While it doesn't directly answer your problem because you speaker, in fact, does cut out. if you have an amp check this tech article from Hog Tunes.

It explains that you can get an open code do to an amp.

I sent you a PM.
 

Last edited by Potato_Potato; Nov 1, 2011 at 11:45 PM.
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 09:06 AM
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Buy or borrow the HD Electrical Diagnostic Manual for your bike's model year (or, failing that, any EDM since '06 model year) for the diagnostic procedure for the B2017 code. Basically, it will give you tests to run with the HD break-out box to identify if the problem is the front right or left speaker ("FL" doesn't mean "front right"), speaker wiring, or a defective radio. Since us civilians don't have the HD break-out box, chances are you'll need to let the dealer run the tests.

Your bike's under warranty and unless you can see visible damage to the speaker or speaker wiring, or identify a speaker as being defective, more than likely the problem is the radio which is not dealer serviceable--you'll get a refurb unit.

If you want more information, contact Iron Cross Audio:

http://www.ironcrossaudio.com/

They're experts on the HK head unit and have earned an outstanding reputation for their repair services. If you can, I'd suggest asking your dealer to send the head unit to ICA for repair rather than getting a refurb unit from HD if the dealer/HD will do so under warranty; i.e. the dealer or HD picks-up the repair bill from ICA.

Good luck resolving your radio issues.

Carl
 
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 09:09 AM
  #5  
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Mine did the same thing. Harley replaced it under warrantee. 2010 Limited.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Harleypingman
Buy or borrow the HD Electrical Diagnostic Manual for your bike's model year (or, failing that, any EDM since '06 model year) for the diagnostic procedure for the B2017 code. Basically, it will give you tests to run with the HD break-out box to identify if the problem is the front right or left speaker ("FL" doesn't mean "front right"), speaker wiring, or a defective radio. Since us civilians don't have the HD break-out box, chances are you'll need to let the dealer run the tests.

Your bike's under warranty and unless you can see visible damage to the speaker or speaker wiring, or identify a speaker as being defective, more than likely the problem is the radio which is not dealer serviceable--you'll get a refurb unit.

If you want more information, contact Iron Cross Audio:

http://www.ironcrossaudio.com/

They're experts on the HK head unit and have earned an outstanding reputation for their repair services. If you can, I'd suggest asking your dealer to send the head unit to ICA for repair rather than getting a refurb unit from HD if the dealer/HD will do so under warranty; i.e. the dealer or HD picks-up the repair bill from ICA.

Good luck resolving your radio issues.

Carl
Thanks Carl.

I do have the manual and I ran all of the diagnostics this morning. The fairing switch checks out ok. The "B2017 FL Speaker Open" diagnostics are pointing to the radio.

As far as the breakout boxes are concerned, they are more of a convenience than a necessity. The breakout boxes definitely make the job easier, but as long as you have the wiring diagram and you can correlate the breakout box terminals to the actual on-bike terminals you can do most of the testing without the breakout box.

I'd still like to get the answer to my first question regarding the clearing process for the DTCs. As far as I can tell they simply clear themselves whenever the fault is not present. I'll ask about that at the dealer.

I'm going to run down there this morning to discuss my findings and see if they have a radio in stock. If not, then there is no point in keeping tomorrow's appointment other than for them to diagnose the problem and confirm what I've found.

I'll be a little pissed if they want to give me a refurbed unit. It's a 1 year-old bike still under warranty and I think a brand new unit is in order. We'll find out.

Thanks to all for the replies.
 

Last edited by 2black1s; Nov 2, 2011 at 06:40 PM.
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 01:19 PM
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Just an update to document a conversation I just had with Iron Cross and to provide this information for anyone who may find it helpful.

My original question regarding whether the radio stores codes, or only shows them if they are currently active - Only active codes will show. If the fault is intermittent no code will show when the fault is not present. The codes are not stored and they clear themselves when the fault ceases.

Another question I had - I assumed that "FL" in the code "FL Speaker Open" signified the problem was in the Front Left speaker circuit. Iron Cross confirmed this is correct. FL = Front Left, FR = Front Right, RL = Rear Left, and RR = Rear Right.

And one final note, if there are multiple codes present, you can scroll through them using the up and down arrow buttons to the right of the radio display window. I actually had some other codes in addition to the B2017 I originally reported. Additional codes were B2023 RR Speaker Shorted to 12V; B2022 RR Speaker Shorted to Ground; B2021 RL Speaker Open; and B2020 RR Speaker Shorted. When I ran the diagnostic procedure for each of those DTCs, they all resulted in a "replace radio" fix.

If anyone experiences a failure similar to mine, I hope the information in this thread can help you.

I searched for this information before writing this thread and couldn't find it. Now if you do a search in the future, hopefully this will come up.

Thanks To All,
John
 

Last edited by 2black1s; Nov 2, 2011 at 06:43 PM.
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Old Jan 28, 2015 | 12:25 PM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by 2black1s
Just an update to document a conversation I just had with Iron Cross and to provide this information for anyone who may find it helpful.

My original question regarding whether the radio stores codes, or only shows them if they are currently active - Only active codes will show. If the fault is intermittent no code will show when the fault is not present. The codes are not stored and they clear themselves when the fault ceases.

Another question I had - I assumed that "FL" in the code "FL Speaker Open" signified the problem was in the Front Left speaker circuit. Iron Cross confirmed this is correct. FL = Front Left, FR = Front Right, RL = Rear Left, and RR = Rear Right.

And one final note, if there are multiple codes present, you can scroll through them using the up and down arrow buttons to the right of the radio display window. I actually had some other codes in addition to the B2017 I originally reported. Additional codes were B2023 RR Speaker Shorted to 12V; B2022 RR Speaker Shorted to Ground; B2021 RL Speaker Open; and B2020 RR Speaker Shorted. When I ran the diagnostic procedure for each of those DTCs, they all resulted in a "replace radio" fix.

If anyone experiences a failure similar to mine, I hope the information in this thread can help you.

I searched for this information before writing this thread and couldn't find it. Now if you do a search in the future, hopefully this will come up.

Thanks To All,
John
Thanks for the informative post, it did come up on a search!

I have the exact same codes you listed so I'm sure it's my head unit. Now the fun part is getting the dealer to replace it under warranty (I had a RF PBR300X2 Amp and Polk MM651 speakers installed). I've pulled the amp, but the speakers and crossovers are still installed because I don't have the stock speakers. We'll see what route that take.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2020 | 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 2black1s
Thanks Carl.

I do have the manual and I ran all of the diagnostics this morning. The fairing switch checks out ok. The "B2017 FL Speaker Open" diagnostics are pointing to the radio.

As far as the breakout boxes are concerned, they are more of a convenience than a necessity. The breakout boxes definitely make the job easier, but as long as you have the wiring diagram and you can correlate the breakout box terminals to the actual on-bike terminals you can do most of the testing without the breakout box.

I'd still like to get the answer to my first question regarding the clearing process for the DTCs. As far as I can tell they simply clear themselves whenever the fault is not present. I'll ask about that at the dealer.

I'm going to run down there this morning to discuss my findings and see if they have a radio in stock. If not, then there is no point in keeping tomorrow's appointment other than for them to diagnose the problem and confirm what I've found.

I'll be a little pissed if they want to give me a refurbed unit. It's a 1 year-old bike still under warranty and I think a brand new unit is in order. We'll find out.

Thanks to all for the replies.
My 07 has the issue too.
What is the diagnostic to pin point if it is the switch, speaker or radio?
 
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Old Oct 3, 2020 | 07:19 AM
  #10  
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I know it's a bit late for this. I have an 07 Ultra myself. This is the diagnostic procedure from the Electrical Diagnostics Manual if you have code B2017.You don't need breakout box, Just test continuity at pins mentioned (16 and 17 for left speaker) (1 and 18 for right speaker) I've tested continuity between the connector and my speaker. Everything is good. so either radio and connector are momentarely breaking contact or my radio is bad. It gets that code and randomly while riding turns off the speakers toggling the speaker switch most of the time fixing it, sometimes it take several tries. I'd like to retain the factory CB as I plan on using it. If I can't find a decent solution to my issue though I'm gonna have to get an aftermarket radio. Not gonna pay an arm and a leg for a mediocre radio.



 
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