Audio system upgrade
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: SOCAL
Soundstream PN4.520D 520W 4 Channel install
After reading all the specs and reviews, I ordered the Soundstream PN4.520D 520W 4 Channel from Amazon. I also ordered the MM561 6.5 Polk speakers with adaptors.
What I haven't seen is the actual wiring. I don't believe the amp comes with any harness, I've never opened the fairing on my 13 SG. and looked at the stock head unit connections. What will I need to do the install. Is there splicing involved?
Appreciate the help.
What I haven't seen is the actual wiring. I don't believe the amp comes with any harness, I've never opened the fairing on my 13 SG. and looked at the stock head unit connections. What will I need to do the install. Is there splicing involved?
Appreciate the help.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 2,843
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
After reading all the specs and reviews, I ordered the Soundstream PN4.520D 520W 4 Channel from Amazon. I also ordered the MM561 6.5 Polk speakers with adaptors.
What I haven't seen is the actual wiring. I don't believe the amp comes with any harness, I've never opened the fairing on my 13 SG. and looked at the stock head unit connections. What will I need to do the install. Is there splicing involved?
Appreciate the help.
What I haven't seen is the actual wiring. I don't believe the amp comes with any harness, I've never opened the fairing on my 13 SG. and looked at the stock head unit connections. What will I need to do the install. Is there splicing involved?
Appreciate the help.
Anyway, you will need some 8 gage power wire with an inline fuse, and some more 8 gage with a ring terminal for the ground. You will also need some 18/20 gage for the remote turn on wire. You can piece it out separately, or you can buy an amp install kit.
If you don't plan on soldering the speaker wires to the high-input harness, you will need some butt splices. You could shrink-wrap all of your connections if you really want it to look professional. You'll also need some heavy-duty Velcro to stick it to the top of the radio.
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: SOCAL
Do you have bag or lowers with speakers in them? If not, do you plan on adding them at some point? If not, you don't really need a 4 channel amp. Just an observation on my part......
Anyway, you will need some 8 gage power wire with an inline fuse, and some more 8 gage with a ring terminal for the ground. You will also need some 18/20 gage for the remote turn on wire. You can piece it out separately, or you can buy an amp install kit.
If you don't plan on soldering the speaker wires to the high-input harness, you will need some butt splices. You could shrink-wrap all of your connections if you really want it to look professional. You'll also need some heavy-duty Velcro to stick it to the top of the radio.
Anyway, you will need some 8 gage power wire with an inline fuse, and some more 8 gage with a ring terminal for the ground. You will also need some 18/20 gage for the remote turn on wire. You can piece it out separately, or you can buy an amp install kit.
If you don't plan on soldering the speaker wires to the high-input harness, you will need some butt splices. You could shrink-wrap all of your connections if you really want it to look professional. You'll also need some heavy-duty Velcro to stick it to the top of the radio.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 14,670
Likes: 139
From: East of the Sun, West of the Moon
so you're going with 4 speakers then? if so you'll want to use front and rear inputs and outputs of the amp and in order to do so you have a couple of options being the street glide only has the 23 pin connector which contains your front speaker wiring.
It's not recommend to "y" off speaker outputs of a head unit to high level inputs on an amp for isolation reasons. so;
1.) get you a PAC sni-15 adapter and wire that to your front speaker wires that are currently connected to your stock fairing speakers. This will give you RCA outputs and then you can "y" those off using RCAs to go into the front and rear inputs on the amp.
2.) on the 35 pin connector on the back of the stock head unit you can utilize pins 1,2,24,25 for your rear outputs to go into high level inputs on amp (these are the little while plugs that came with the amp. This will require 4 pins from HD parts counter, some 18/20ga wire, and a little bit of heat shrink for your soldered connections. If you go this route the rear outputs are already active on the head unit but if you want the fader to work, you'll need to bring the bike into the dealer to have them flash that option on for you. Literally takes 5 minutes to do.
It's not recommend to "y" off speaker outputs of a head unit to high level inputs on an amp for isolation reasons. so;
1.) get you a PAC sni-15 adapter and wire that to your front speaker wires that are currently connected to your stock fairing speakers. This will give you RCA outputs and then you can "y" those off using RCAs to go into the front and rear inputs on the amp.
2.) on the 35 pin connector on the back of the stock head unit you can utilize pins 1,2,24,25 for your rear outputs to go into high level inputs on amp (these are the little while plugs that came with the amp. This will require 4 pins from HD parts counter, some 18/20ga wire, and a little bit of heat shrink for your soldered connections. If you go this route the rear outputs are already active on the head unit but if you want the fader to work, you'll need to bring the bike into the dealer to have them flash that option on for you. Literally takes 5 minutes to do.
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: SOCAL
so you're going with 4 speakers then? if so you'll want to use front and rear inputs and outputs of the amp and in order to do so you have a couple of options being the street glide only has the 23 pin connector which contains your front speaker wiring.
It's not recommend to "y" off speaker outputs of a head unit to high level inputs on an amp for isolation reasons. so;
1.) get you a PAC sni-15 adapter and wire that to your front speaker wires that are currently connected to your stock fairing speakers. This will give you RCA outputs and then you can "y" those off using RCAs to go into the front and rear inputs on the amp.
2.) on the 35 pin connector on the back of the stock head unit you can utilize pins 1,2,24,25 for your rear outputs to go into high level inputs on amp (these are the little while plugs that came with the amp. This will require 4 pins from HD parts counter, some 18/20ga wire, and a little bit of heat shrink for your soldered connections. If you go this route the rear outputs are already active on the head unit but if you want the fader to work, you'll need to bring the bike into the dealer to have them flash that option on for you. Literally takes 5 minutes to do.
It's not recommend to "y" off speaker outputs of a head unit to high level inputs on an amp for isolation reasons. so;
1.) get you a PAC sni-15 adapter and wire that to your front speaker wires that are currently connected to your stock fairing speakers. This will give you RCA outputs and then you can "y" those off using RCAs to go into the front and rear inputs on the amp.
2.) on the 35 pin connector on the back of the stock head unit you can utilize pins 1,2,24,25 for your rear outputs to go into high level inputs on amp (these are the little while plugs that came with the amp. This will require 4 pins from HD parts counter, some 18/20ga wire, and a little bit of heat shrink for your soldered connections. If you go this route the rear outputs are already active on the head unit but if you want the fader to work, you'll need to bring the bike into the dealer to have them flash that option on for you. Literally takes 5 minutes to do.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 14,670
Likes: 139
From: East of the Sun, West of the Moon
then you simply wire your rear outputs of the head unit to the rear inputs on the amp and the front outputs of the head unit to the front inputs on the amp.
The fronts are easy because the speakers are right there so just unplug your speaker wires and connect those to the front inputs on the amp.
The rears, you'll need to snip the 4 wires about 6" or so back from the headunit to tie into the rear inputs.
The fronts are easy because the speakers are right there so just unplug your speaker wires and connect those to the front inputs on the amp.
The rears, you'll need to snip the 4 wires about 6" or so back from the headunit to tie into the rear inputs.
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: SOCAL
Everything is installed, but Im not sure if the fader should fade front to back or left to right. As it isset now, I fade front and tour pac speakers left and right, not front to rear. Is that correct or should it be fading front to rear?
then you simply wire your rear outputs of the head unit to the rear inputs on the amp and the front outputs of the head unit to the front inputs on the amp.
The fronts are easy because the speakers are right there so just unplug your speaker wires and connect those to the front inputs on the amp.
The rears, you'll need to snip the 4 wires about 6" or so back from the headunit to tie into the rear inputs.
The fronts are easy because the speakers are right there so just unplug your speaker wires and connect those to the front inputs on the amp.
The rears, you'll need to snip the 4 wires about 6" or so back from the headunit to tie into the rear inputs.
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Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 14,670
Likes: 139
From: East of the Sun, West of the Moon
if you're fading right to left instead of front to rear, then something is not connected right. either the wiring going into the inputs of the amp from the head unit or the speaker wires going from the amp to the speakers.
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: SOCAL
Alright, all is installed correctly, with the Poly fiber. Here are pics showing the finished product. The Poly fiber did give add a noticeable bass tone, but in the end I'm still wanting more bass.
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Fred Marshall Jr
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Sep 2, 2013 07:56 PM