Rocker switch type?
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Cruiser
Joined: May 2013
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From: Central FL
Rocker switch type?
I'm wanting to make an A/B source selector for the Aux input on my 01 EGC. The idea is to use a 3PDT switch of some kind with a lead 3.5mm cable that plugs into the radio, and a couple of cables that run to either handlebar side (one for the sat radio cradle, the other to the phone mount for Pandora or whatever). This way I'm not having to plug/unplug when I want to listen to a different source, and most of the wiring will be inconspicuous.
I want to use the same kind of switch as the existing lamps/aux circuit switches, if I can. Is there a specific type/style that's used for those switches? If all else fails, I'm just going to find one narrow enough to mount in one of the blank plates.
I want to use the same kind of switch as the existing lamps/aux circuit switches, if I can. Is there a specific type/style that's used for those switches? If all else fails, I'm just going to find one narrow enough to mount in one of the blank plates.
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: St. Louis
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Cruiser
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 218
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From: Central FL
Those all look to be direct replacements for OE switches, which may work if the switch is 3PDT... Is the speaker switch wired as such? Looking at the pictures, it doesn't seem that there are enough wires coming out of that harness.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 14,670
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From: East of the Sun, West of the Moon
you could always do it automatically and not fool with additional wiring.
http://www.sonance.com/files/images/.../90484_frt.png
http://www.sonance.com/files/images/.../90484_frt.png
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Cruiser
Joined: May 2013
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From: Central FL
Assuming I take the auto-sensing route, and that it would need 12V and just 75mA, how would I wire this into the bike? Could I get away with just t-tapping my Aux circuit harness somewhere and create a pigtail to plug into the device? Or do I need better power regulation than that?
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 14,670
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From: East of the Sun, West of the Moon
in your fairing is where I'd put this device.
Run a 3.5mm to RCA cable from your left handlebar into the fairing and plug into A
Run a 3.5mm to RCA cable from your right handlebar into the fairing and plug into B
Run a RCA to 3.5mm cable from inside the fairing to the AUX input on your radio.
At your headlamp harness there is an orange/white wire with a red rubber cap and a black wire on it taped about 8" or so from the headlamp plug. that is accessory power and ground. Tap in for power right there and put a 1A fuse inline with your power feed to the device. Run your ground to the black wire there as well. Secure the device inside the fairing.
the way this thing will work is as long as nothing is plugged into the 3.55 plug on the right handlebar (B) then A will play. When you want to listen to B, simply plug it in.
Test the device before you put your fairing back together to make sure the delay is set properly for switching from A to B.
I would leave the voltage trigger sensitivity where it's set from factory unless you have a need to change it. Both devices you speak of should have plenty of voltage output on the audio to trigger it properly.
Run a 3.5mm to RCA cable from your left handlebar into the fairing and plug into A
Run a 3.5mm to RCA cable from your right handlebar into the fairing and plug into B
Run a RCA to 3.5mm cable from inside the fairing to the AUX input on your radio.
At your headlamp harness there is an orange/white wire with a red rubber cap and a black wire on it taped about 8" or so from the headlamp plug. that is accessory power and ground. Tap in for power right there and put a 1A fuse inline with your power feed to the device. Run your ground to the black wire there as well. Secure the device inside the fairing.
the way this thing will work is as long as nothing is plugged into the 3.55 plug on the right handlebar (B) then A will play. When you want to listen to B, simply plug it in.
Test the device before you put your fairing back together to make sure the delay is set properly for switching from A to B.
I would leave the voltage trigger sensitivity where it's set from factory unless you have a need to change it. Both devices you speak of should have plenty of voltage output on the audio to trigger it properly.
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Cruiser
Joined: May 2013
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From: Central FL
Yeah, this setup sounds much better than the way I was planning before with hacking up and soldering 3.5mm pigtails for each side.
Now to find one for sale somewhere... I found the SpeakerCraft LL-One, but the cheapest place selling it for $51 is backordered until the end of the month, and anywhere else that sells it is significantly more.
Besides Sonance and SpeakerCraft, are there any other makes you know of off-hand that I should look at?
Now to find one for sale somewhere... I found the SpeakerCraft LL-One, but the cheapest place selling it for $51 is backordered until the end of the month, and anywhere else that sells it is significantly more.
Besides Sonance and SpeakerCraft, are there any other makes you know of off-hand that I should look at?
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