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Old Aug 31, 2014 | 11:13 PM
  #11  
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yep ,,,, Buzz and I are right now going over the best way to configure his system, so that the fairing speakers and saddlebag lid speakers each get the full 125w RMS per channel X 4 ,,,,,,

THEN the rear trunk-pod speakers will run off the rear channels of the stock Harley radio ,,,, so that the trunk can be taken off anytime without affecting the rest of the audio system ,,,,,,,

AND to make sure that it is ALL plug-n-play for ease of installation ,,,,,,
 
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Old Sep 1, 2014 | 12:08 AM
  #12  
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So,....no amplification on the rear pods ??
 
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Old Sep 1, 2014 | 08:08 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by JMJOHN
yep ,,,, Buzz and I are right now going over the best way to configure his system, so that the fairing speakers and saddlebag lid speakers each get the full 125w RMS per channel X 4 ,,,,,,

THEN the rear trunk-pod speakers will run off the rear channels of the stock Harley radio ,,,, so that the trunk can be taken off anytime without affecting the rest of the audio system ,,,,,,,

AND to make sure that it is ALL plug-n-play for ease of installation ,,,,,,
I dont understand how you can get the full 125 watts x 4 out of just 2 channels when its a 500 watt 4 channel amp. I would think that you would only be getting 250 watts split to 4 speakers. JMJohn has been very helpful in working me through this. I may have to make some sacrifices.
 

Last edited by BuzzL; Sep 1, 2014 at 08:13 AM. Reason: changing verbage
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Old Sep 1, 2014 | 02:47 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by BuzzL
I may have to make some sacrifices.


Or start over and go a different direction......
 
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Old Sep 1, 2014 | 03:42 PM
  #15  
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my .02

I'm assuming you're referring to the 12 FLHTK

I thought the J&M 4 channel amp was a plug and play setup for 4 speakers? If not, then simply tap (don't cut off) into the rear outputs of the stock headunit for your rear inputs to the amp leaving your stock wires in place for your rear pod speakers. If you wire the rear speakers (both the pods and the lids) in series, you'll increase the impedance load to 4 ohms which will effectively cut your power output on the rear channels of that amp to about 100w per channel, then divide that by 4 so 50w per rear speaker. My suggestion is leave the pods on the stock head unit.

you can either cut and solder your connections for rear amp inputs from the stock rear outputs or you can use the
positap positap
or the
scotchlock scotchlock
connectors
 
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