nitrous tune
#1
#2
What is the the hp now. The stock cast crank will handle about 160/170 hp before it will brake left side shaft.
We've broke them all from R&R to S&S Darkhorse & RevPerf. Jims SE & and our own Dragos crank making way to much power lol.
We've broke them all from R&R to S&S Darkhorse & RevPerf. Jims SE & and our own Dragos crank making way to much power lol.
#3
How are you planing to ad the extra fuel for the NO2 shot? Dry or wet system?
The power commander 5 works best for a tuner and NO2 use. The ability to switch maps on the fly makes it ideal for nitrous.
You can spray about a 25hp dry shot without changing anything by having the spray bar directed at the cold air temp sensor and let the bike ad the extra fuel on its own. I have the Nozzle pointed like this anyways just in case the PC5 doesn't switch maps I don't run completely lean.
As far as tuning with a larger NO2 shot (35hp) you would need a base map that runs good off the bottle and then another map that would have the extra fuel added for the shot of NO2 at the intended rpm range of use. I would refrain from activating the NOS until 3,000 to 3,500 rps to help prevent crank abuse.
The power commander 5 works best for a tuner and NO2 use. The ability to switch maps on the fly makes it ideal for nitrous.
You can spray about a 25hp dry shot without changing anything by having the spray bar directed at the cold air temp sensor and let the bike ad the extra fuel on its own. I have the Nozzle pointed like this anyways just in case the PC5 doesn't switch maps I don't run completely lean.
As far as tuning with a larger NO2 shot (35hp) you would need a base map that runs good off the bottle and then another map that would have the extra fuel added for the shot of NO2 at the intended rpm range of use. I would refrain from activating the NOS until 3,000 to 3,500 rps to help prevent crank abuse.
#4
How are you planing to ad the extra fuel for the NO2 shot? Dry or wet system?
The power commander 5 works best for a tuner and NO2 use. The ability to switch maps on the fly makes it ideal for nitrous.
You can spray about a 25hp dry shot without changing anything by having the spray bar directed at the cold air temp sensor and let the bike ad the extra fuel on its own. I have the Nozzle pointed like this anyways just in case the PC5 doesn't switch maps I don't run completely lean.
As far as tuning with a larger NO2 shot (35hp) you would need a base map that runs good off the bottle and then another map that would have the extra fuel added for the shot of NO2 at the intended rpm range of use. I would refrain from activating the NOS until 3,000 to 3,500 rps to help prevent crank abuse.
The power commander 5 works best for a tuner and NO2 use. The ability to switch maps on the fly makes it ideal for nitrous.
You can spray about a 25hp dry shot without changing anything by having the spray bar directed at the cold air temp sensor and let the bike ad the extra fuel on its own. I have the Nozzle pointed like this anyways just in case the PC5 doesn't switch maps I don't run completely lean.
As far as tuning with a larger NO2 shot (35hp) you would need a base map that runs good off the bottle and then another map that would have the extra fuel added for the shot of NO2 at the intended rpm range of use. I would refrain from activating the NOS until 3,000 to 3,500 rps to help prevent crank abuse.
#5
I'm still trying to figure out what the stock Harley timing table is. (I have a stage 1 flash to complicate things even more) I haven't messed with timing, but you will want to retard it on the bottle and that should be some where around 35-32 deg btdc with a smaller shot.
Your crank looks like it should hold up now. Myself when min goes out I will be going 124" with a big bore kit from revtech while the cases are apart.
If your looking for some NO2 gadgets look here at DynoTune nitrous lean shut off switches, RPM activation switches, and they work with the FBW of the Harley's. I will be adding the dual RPM switch, use stage 1 to activate the nitrous above 3500 and the other to activate a LED shift light.
Your crank looks like it should hold up now. Myself when min goes out I will be going 124" with a big bore kit from revtech while the cases are apart.
If your looking for some NO2 gadgets look here at DynoTune nitrous lean shut off switches, RPM activation switches, and they work with the FBW of the Harley's. I will be adding the dual RPM switch, use stage 1 to activate the nitrous above 3500 and the other to activate a LED shift light.
#6
Dyno tune is where i bought my set up. They do have some nice stuff. I called a guy about 3 months back ( like a numb nut I forget where). and He said a good rule of thumb as long as you not running 70 shot or above was retard 4 deg per 25 hp shot at wot with my system ( dry, horn button trigger ). I would like to have the switch that automaticley kicks in at a pre set rpm at wot....
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