New member with Super E problems
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Stage III
Joined: Jun 2016
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From: Bunaby
New member with Super E problems
Hello all, new member here and first post. I'm a half-assed backyard mechanic but very little experience with bikes; usually cars or newer motorcycles not needing much!
Anyways, I picked up an older basket case Sportster a few years ago for the challenge to Repair it, get back together and running (and also because it was cheap!)
Anyways, pretty happy with progress so far and it's all assembled and running but......I am plagued with what I think must be a carb issue so any advice or steering in different direction much appreciated! The carb is an S&S Super E on a fairly stock 1000 cc.
When cold the bike starts like a dream after raising the "enrichener " lever and a quick blip of the throttle. The engine is however roaring away at a VERY high idle and when I slowly try and lower the lever back to off position it starts running a little more unsteady. With the lever still up a little bit at a fast idle I can ride for maybe 3 to 4 mins.! At this point it sputters and dies! In other words I can't even ride farther than I can push it back from because at this point, to increase my aggravation it will not restart for love nor money. I must let it totally cool down!
First off, I'm assuming it's a carb issue?? If so any suggestions as to cause?
I have had it off twice now and followed the S&S rebuild manual taking apart and reassembling as best as I can. I know my adjusting may be suspect but have followed recommended set points. The problem isn't gunk buildup either, I don't imagine because it is near new and spotless inside and out. They also seem pretty simple but is something maybe not assembled correctly still?
Open to any suggestions at this point,
Thanks, Gord
Anyways, I picked up an older basket case Sportster a few years ago for the challenge to Repair it, get back together and running (and also because it was cheap!)
Anyways, pretty happy with progress so far and it's all assembled and running but......I am plagued with what I think must be a carb issue so any advice or steering in different direction much appreciated! The carb is an S&S Super E on a fairly stock 1000 cc.
When cold the bike starts like a dream after raising the "enrichener " lever and a quick blip of the throttle. The engine is however roaring away at a VERY high idle and when I slowly try and lower the lever back to off position it starts running a little more unsteady. With the lever still up a little bit at a fast idle I can ride for maybe 3 to 4 mins.! At this point it sputters and dies! In other words I can't even ride farther than I can push it back from because at this point, to increase my aggravation it will not restart for love nor money. I must let it totally cool down!
First off, I'm assuming it's a carb issue?? If so any suggestions as to cause?
I have had it off twice now and followed the S&S rebuild manual taking apart and reassembling as best as I can. I know my adjusting may be suspect but have followed recommended set points. The problem isn't gunk buildup either, I don't imagine because it is near new and spotless inside and out. They also seem pretty simple but is something maybe not assembled correctly still?
Open to any suggestions at this point,
Thanks, Gord
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Stage III
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 3
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From: Bunaby
It is an early electronic ignition system with Accel coil, new plugs and wires; does that change the possibility of ignition?
I never felt it was ignition personally and kind of zeroed in on a carburetion problem but will try anything at this stage! So I should start it up and then run till it dies then immediately check spark at plugs, I guess?
Thanks,
I never felt it was ignition personally and kind of zeroed in on a carburetion problem but will try anything at this stage! So I should start it up and then run till it dies then immediately check spark at plugs, I guess?
Thanks,
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
Sounds like electrical to me. In addition to the items you mention there is a sender inside the points cone, which is prone to developing a fault. My 1990 bike did that. That is in line with it working again for a short while after cooling back down. A continuity check when cold and again after it cuts out may well confirm that is the source of the problem. If you don't have one a factory service manual will probably help you diagnose the problem.
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Stage III
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 3
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From: Bunaby
Thanks for the replies; for an update, I started it up again this afternoon and it did pretty much what I described in first post.
I immediately then pulled the plugs and checked to find a good healthy spark and also solid streams of gas when I blipped the throttle.
Cold or hot, can there be any way it could be electrical if the plugs show a good steady spark when cranking?? Thats the part I don't understand.
From my basic knowledge of this kind of thing, when its cold I must have everything required (compression, fuel, spark and air) because it starts up right away and runs good at a fast idle so what is changed after it runs for a couple of minutes then dies and will not restart!?
Thanks for any more comments again in advance!
I'm getting close to admitting defeat and calling a shop!!
I immediately then pulled the plugs and checked to find a good healthy spark and also solid streams of gas when I blipped the throttle.
Cold or hot, can there be any way it could be electrical if the plugs show a good steady spark when cranking?? Thats the part I don't understand.
From my basic knowledge of this kind of thing, when its cold I must have everything required (compression, fuel, spark and air) because it starts up right away and runs good at a fast idle so what is changed after it runs for a couple of minutes then dies and will not restart!?
Thanks for any more comments again in advance!
I'm getting close to admitting defeat and calling a shop!!
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
The reason electrical things can fail, even temporarily, is that they heat up, stop conducting vital electricity and therefore stop working. Once cooled down they can essentially reset themselves and then go through the same cycle, until they suffer a more complete failure, such as a meltdown. There is a recent thread in which the plastic setting compound of the sensor melted and came out through the bottom of the timing cone.
Check continuity as suggested above. You have healthy sparks because the sender is currently working OK. Ride it until the bike stops, then check again, when you will probably find you have no sparks! A shop will have the means and experience of testing as suggested, probably take them just a few minutes to diagnose.
Check continuity as suggested above. You have healthy sparks because the sender is currently working OK. Ride it until the bike stops, then check again, when you will probably find you have no sparks! A shop will have the means and experience of testing as suggested, probably take them just a few minutes to diagnose.
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