Running lean
Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 204
Likes: 61
From: Arkansas
I'll echo that as well. You should be seeing much higher psi #'s out of your engine combo. Regardless, dont want to send you down a rabbit hole here. Make sure you are performing the compression test correctly.
Ultimately, dial back that timing and see if that ping goes away. Let us know how it turns out. Good luck.
Ultimately, dial back that timing and see if that ping goes away. Let us know how it turns out. Good luck.
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Tourer
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 262
Likes: 31
From: So-Cal, USA
I just double checked the compression and with the engine warm, not hot it was still 155-160.
I took it for a ride first I changed the timing to 0 and it was having trouble running like it was real rough. Then back to 6 till it was good and warmed up. I changed it around from 6 to 0 and it is currently at 3 and it seems to be ok'ish I guess. My concer is it's prob gonna idle like **** when it's cold. I'm thinking I'll have to adjust the idle mixture screw. But I don't remember the process of doing that to get the best results.
I took it for a ride first I changed the timing to 0 and it was having trouble running like it was real rough. Then back to 6 till it was good and warmed up. I changed it around from 6 to 0 and it is currently at 3 and it seems to be ok'ish I guess. My concer is it's prob gonna idle like **** when it's cold. I'm thinking I'll have to adjust the idle mixture screw. But I don't remember the process of doing that to get the best results.
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Tourer
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 262
Likes: 31
From: So-Cal, USA
So here is what it sounds like at idle and it sounds kinda loud, there is someone using a hammer nearby so ignore that just the ticking sound from the engine is my concern. But is that just the valves making all that racket?
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Tourer
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 262
Likes: 31
From: So-Cal, USA
I have adjusted my timing by adding 6 degrees taking the curve to its SE adjusted curve, It sounds better and doesn't knock anymore. Once i changed the timing it began running rich so i changed the jets to a 220 main and a 50 secondary it sounded good and felt ok but when i'd go wide open and did a plug chop it was lean, the only other main jets i can find are 240 (i already have a 250 lying around) so i put that in with a 48 and it is good but its backfiring and sputters on throttle release. Like i got off the freeway at 80 and released the throttle and it did the gunshots backfire then when i'd go to snap the throttle to down shift it would cough like it wanted to stall for a split second then i'd shift and more gunshots and cough when i'd try to snap the throttle.
Then on the way home i was on a long gradual incline for like 8 miles and it started to give me the paint can rattle sound again when i'd try to give it some gas. So maybe 240 is too small? or should i add more timing, the SC controller can go up to like +9 and -6 on its curves. Does it need the 250? But what about the backfiring and sputtering bit that has never been normal for my bikes, normally there is a backfire but not such a loud gunshot one and definitely not a cough when i add gas.
I would post the spark curve for the SE module but i dont have it and google isnt finding squat.
Then on the way home i was on a long gradual incline for like 8 miles and it started to give me the paint can rattle sound again when i'd try to give it some gas. So maybe 240 is too small? or should i add more timing, the SC controller can go up to like +9 and -6 on its curves. Does it need the 250? But what about the backfiring and sputtering bit that has never been normal for my bikes, normally there is a backfire but not such a loud gunshot one and definitely not a cough when i add gas.
I would post the spark curve for the SE module but i dont have it and google isnt finding squat.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,326
Likes: 3,614
From: Picayune, Ms.
Do you have the original exhaust pipes, the ones with the cross-over pipe between the front and rear cylinder?
If so there is a brass ring with a fiber gasket in there, the fiber gasket wears out and allows the brass ring to move back and forth with the exhaust cycles and creates a rattling sound.
If so there is a brass ring with a fiber gasket in there, the fiber gasket wears out and allows the brass ring to move back and forth with the exhaust cycles and creates a rattling sound.
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Tourer
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 262
Likes: 31
From: So-Cal, USA
Do you have the original exhaust pipes, the ones with the cross-over pipe between the front and rear cylinder?
If so there is a brass ring with a fiber gasket in there, the fiber gasket wears out and allows the brass ring to move back and forth with the exhaust cycles and creates a rattling sound.
If so there is a brass ring with a fiber gasket in there, the fiber gasket wears out and allows the brass ring to move back and forth with the exhaust cycles and creates a rattling sound.
It definitely sounds like preignition/detonation because the sound has mostly gone away since I changed the timing and started messing with my jetting.
So I'm pretty sure it's not any loose parts.
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Tourer
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 262
Likes: 31
From: So-Cal, USA
The accerator pump is working, shoots a nice stream in there when I move the throttle.
I have the factory spring but a few coils have been cut off.
The needle is stamped N8EL and I have 1 washer shim under it.
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