Checking float level
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2021
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From: backwoods
Checking float level
I recently checked the float level on my bike. Worked on many carbs never did this before. There is section in the harley manual on this, with specs and how to do it.
Need to hold it at 15-20 degrees. So set my miter saw at 17 degrees and cut end off 2x4. I consider cutting two, and putting piece of plywood across with a hole. Given the times, when will I do this again, and I believe you would need a hole for CV40 and 44. It might have freed up a handy when using calipers. I think you would still need to tie it down
There is a line on float, that should be parallel with body of carb. Mine was not. The manual also gives you a range you measure. This would be little easier with carb to tied down. But I digital calipers. As the jaw opens the rods comes out the end and you can use that. I was at the very top end.
Replacing the float valve would not be a bad idea. I sprayed out the plunger. You are probably not going to find carb parts at dealers any more. Other year I wanted some jap jets, and dealer told me two weeks. I ordered a kit off ebay. The jets had no numbers on them, so I did not use them
Took the bike for a ride, seemed better than ever at top end. Hit 108 and I stopped. Lucked out the exit I got off for gas had a cop sitting on it. When I built the engine almost 20 years ago it stopped around 100. I thought was low, but really didn't know. Of course I found out racing my harley hating dad.
Did they float move over 20 years, might have. Don't know the next time I will buy a carb. But I do wonder if it came wrong from the factory. This was on SEV44, which probably more carb then I need for this build. SE has over flow line, I don't think stock does.
Just thought I would share.
Need to hold it at 15-20 degrees. So set my miter saw at 17 degrees and cut end off 2x4. I consider cutting two, and putting piece of plywood across with a hole. Given the times, when will I do this again, and I believe you would need a hole for CV40 and 44. It might have freed up a handy when using calipers. I think you would still need to tie it down
There is a line on float, that should be parallel with body of carb. Mine was not. The manual also gives you a range you measure. This would be little easier with carb to tied down. But I digital calipers. As the jaw opens the rods comes out the end and you can use that. I was at the very top end.
Replacing the float valve would not be a bad idea. I sprayed out the plunger. You are probably not going to find carb parts at dealers any more. Other year I wanted some jap jets, and dealer told me two weeks. I ordered a kit off ebay. The jets had no numbers on them, so I did not use them
Took the bike for a ride, seemed better than ever at top end. Hit 108 and I stopped. Lucked out the exit I got off for gas had a cop sitting on it. When I built the engine almost 20 years ago it stopped around 100. I thought was low, but really didn't know. Of course I found out racing my harley hating dad.
Did they float move over 20 years, might have. Don't know the next time I will buy a carb. But I do wonder if it came wrong from the factory. This was on SEV44, which probably more carb then I need for this build. SE has over flow line, I don't think stock does.
Just thought I would share.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 3,072
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From: Dallas, Texas
For what it's worth, yer over complicating the simple. 1st, relax and clear yer mind, cause what ya did just plain old don't work. START FRESH!!! Hold carb body with left hand. Eyeball the intake side, which is pointed down, to a 15 to 20 degrees angle. Now with yer right hand, holding a small machinist ruler, measure from the carb body to fuel bowl mating surface. Measure the distance (0.413 - 0.453) from there to the bottom of the float. Adjust if needed. NOW, TURN OFF THE MITER SAW!
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Seasoned HDF Member
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From: backwoods
Huh? Scrap piece of wood cut at angle from manual ,to make it accurate. Took 5 minutes to cut it. Just chopped end of 2x4 scrap.
Since I reload I have digital calipers so you don't have to try reading while holding. Again very easy.
I do think you should check the angle. I couldn't find my magnetic protector. Not that it would work with carb. But cutting scrap wood is very easy
Since I reload I have digital calipers so you don't have to try reading while holding. Again very easy.
I do think you should check the angle. I couldn't find my magnetic protector. Not that it would work with carb. But cutting scrap wood is very easy
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Pennsylvania
HD advised of a tip for adjusting the float level thru Tech Tip #36 dated September 1993.
However, this only works if you have an overflow fitting on the bowl (carbs for 1200S models don't have this fitting).
- Checking carburetor float level can be easily done without even removing the carburetor from the motorcycle.
- Simply attach a section of clear model airplane fuel line to the float bowl overflow fitting.
- A small diameter fuel line, which is compatible with gasoline, can be found in most hobby supply shops.
- Route the hose upward alongside the carburetor body.
- The motorcycle must be held level and be running to perform this test.
- Open the float bowl drain screw and fuel will rise in the hose to the same level as that in the bowl itself.
- In a carb with a properly adjusted float level the fuel level in this hose will be at the joint between the carb body and the float bowl face.
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Seasoned HDF Member
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From: backwoods
Cut a block of wood at 17 degrees, and stick under carb. On youtube they used protractrors. But with the block you can hold it against the wood. Bike is doing better than ever on interstate. More carb than need. But I had a reason.
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Seasoned HDF Member
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From: backwoods
The miter saw gave me a way to measure the angle, and was pretty easy.
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Brighton, MI
Actually, if you look closely, when tilting the carb to pivot the float (about 15-20 degrees
), you can see when the little bendable metal tab comes in contact with the tiny spring loaded plunger on the float needle. That is what you want.With the float needle properly seated in the bore in the closed position, hold the carb so the float pivots until the float tab just touches the tiny spring loaded plunger. Not compressing it, just making contact with it. That is the sweet spot/money shot. Use a small ruler to measure/check or eyeball it to see if is parallel (or within spec) with the carb body to float. Bend tab to adjust.
Also, take note of a "wear spot" on the tab. Not sure if it is critical (probably splitting hairs) but a small crater can develop where that tiny plunger constantly wears (vibrates) on the tab of the metal float. Is it enough to throw of your measurements? Don't know, but our bikes are getting long in the tooth so something to look at or feel if it's anything significant.
The final option is a piece of clear plastic tube running up towards the top of the carb and inserted in the drain hole. Open the float drain hole and petcock. Watch where the fuel line end up in the clear tubing. Of course the carb should be installed on the bike and the bike needs to be positioned straight up in the riding position when checking. It's any easy way to confirm or check when the carb is back on the bike.
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Thread Starter
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 17,923
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From: backwoods
Walk to miter saw, looked around for scrap wood, cut 17 degrees. Miter saws IMO is just a handy tool to have. I use it mostly for cutting 2x4s, I've got two, and always out, would like a third. Maybe the newer style cross cut.
