Just got around to working on the bike again. I went on e-bay and got some parts that i wanted to play with, here is the list.

1- starter switch. i only changed it because i wanted a diferent key, it was good so not the starting problem.
2- I got a starter solenoid rebuild kit, the solenoid checked out ok, brushes have about 75% life left on them, cleaned everything and put it back together, not the problem but its something i wanted to do anyhow.
3- cleaned all wiring terminals even related to starting, not the problem.
4- there was one little thing that bother me since the begining, the little square switching box, ( starter relay ) i got one the the ACCEL name brand ones it was almost 20 dollars, i put it on and she cranked up on the first turns of the motor.

Next problem

Now when i was messing around i relocated the horn to the front of the bike, i dont want it on the left side of the motor, i like seeing the engine, so i undid the choke cable and now that i put it all together at about 2,500 RPM she starts missing out, go to next gear she is fine, i think i have to play with the choke cable, it has to have a little spot it loves, what do you all think.

 

Neal: I didn't even notice this post until now...my 'favorites' takes me right into the 'Iron Head' forum. Sorry.

It shouldn't have a little spot it loves...the choke should be 'open' once the bike is warm. If it has a spot where it runs best that involves a little choke then the carb is jetted too lean(or needs an adjustment to richen it...I don't know which carb you are running) assuming all other variables are ideal.

However, because you have been working with the choke I would start with the possibility that you may have accidently broken the seal at the intake and have a leak now which would cause a lean condition and cause the bike to miss or huff out the carb. You can check by spraying wd40 around the intake seals behind the carb and at the motor while the motor is running and listen for a change in the idle/watch for smoke at the exhaust. This is the most likely if it ran fine before.

 

Hello Scott.

I got that fixed today, first thanks for the great fix ideas, its teaching me. i believe that my backing plate, or that housing that goes in front of the carburetor has been changed somehow, the linkage for the choke actually was hitting the plate, from an indentation on it i think for a long time, so when i put it back together not paying special attention to it, the choke linkage was not in the location it should have been.
Today weather in houston was 68 and sunny, so i went out and did some riding, she is begining to run good.
Look am getting ready to commit a sin, that carburetor and is factory Keihin i want to change, the reason. it coughs, farts, its slow on cold, does not reaspond that well, to be fair not all of it at the same time. Now the new 39MM CV runs much better and am looking to try that, i found a complete bolt on kit so in a few weeks i want to take the plunge, i hate major modifications but i want the carb to do what i tell it to do.

Hope you have a great new year and thanks for the info, i enjoy doing the work and seeing the results.

Neal

 

Snow here, -10C...bike is in the living room infront of the TV for the winter.

I'm not sure if you have already changed the carb or not. When you said the 'new CV runs better'....sounds like you have already changed. But, 'look at getting ready to commit a sin'...sounds like you want too.

The coughs and farts are a tuning issue and you would do better to tune it before you change the carb because once you change the carb you will have to adjust or tune the carb for the bike and if there are other issues you will pull out your hair trying to get the new carb tuned.
-check the plugs for their condition
-ignition and wires
-timing
-I assume the carb is adjusted,but, check it against your manual
-and check for intake leaks

regardless of which carb is on the bike, it should run well. I run an old non-adjustable bendix on mine and it purrs...loudly.

s

 

Hey guys, new here. Looking for my first sled but I want a classic iron head. A relative had one and I still love that sound. I am looking around for a rolling or basket case. I don't have crazy idea in mind but I want to make it my own. Hope I am posting in the right place.

 

Robi: hey and welcome from rural ontario. You will see there is an actual forum for Ironheads...this is a thread in the classic forum. Look around though, there are some good threads in all the forums and pics too.
s

 

no sir i have not bought one, there is a guy on e-bay that has late model CV that he rebuilds, custom jets, puts an adapter plate for bolting on to stock intake and puts a fancy cover on it, and finishes with a plate mounted choke on the carb, i sure want to give it a try. i dont want to put stock down too badly, but is far from smooth and i cant find anything else to adjust or clean on it.

Neal

 

Thanks, nice to see I am not the only Canadian around here. Nice ironhead you have there. Love those machines!

 

It sounds to me like your bike ran fine until you moved your choke and now it still runs fine until you get the rpms up. So, I'm still leaning towards a slight leak in the intake, however, the bike is new to you and it's history is prob. uncertain...

Using my bike as an example...I have a foam air cleaner. If it gets dried out...that is enough to cause it to gradually run poorly at higher rpms---it will cause the motor to run a little lean---clean the filter and re-oil and the bike will run well again.

another example...I have a magneto. I must clean the contact points for the ignition wires...they get dirty and dark and will cause the motor to miss and eventually be difficult to start if I let it get too bad.

This is just two examples of many possibilities of seemingly tiny issues that people overlook that could cause problems with how the bike runs. One is a fuel delivery issue and the other spark. You have to find yours.

Start at the plugs. Check the condition and colour (tan, black (and fluffy)(or oily), white)...put in new ones and take it for a good run out on the highway if you have to...to get a good plug read(don't blip the throttle when you are idling and try not to idle too much until you get to read the plugs) then shut off the motor and coast into your drive (don't idle as you park and shut down...just shut it off and coast)...you are trying to get a good plug read. (there are better ways to do this than I explained....but they involve sitting on the highway waiting for the motor to cool to check the plugs....but, waiting is no fun without beer).

check the wires
clean the terminals in the coil for the wires
check the coil's resistance
check the timing
check the VOES-verify the vacume affects timing and idle

then the fuel delivery
check the air cleaner
pull the carb
disassemble and clean
let the parts soak in good quality carb cleaner
remove all varnish (another possiblility for your problems)
check intake manifold and carb for cracks
dry with compressed air all passages
replace o-rings and gaskets!!! (another likely cause for your problems)
check float level
check diaphram condition

check compression and push-rod adjustment

just a quick list...off the top of my head. I may have missed something.

My point, though, is that it could be something as tiny as an o-ring that is causing the problem. As you get to know your bike it will get easier to track this stuff.

My routine is to check everything in the winter then cruze all summer with only minor adjustments.

 

Cheers, thanks.
I can't see where you are located.

There is a group for people from Ontario....lots of members...very little action tho.

s