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Old Mar 26, 2020 | 08:09 PM
  #11  
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Thanks everyone. Will be working on trying to get the pieces off the tank itself. Everything I am seeing says it has to be threaded somehow. Will spray some PB Blaster and let it sit overnight and then see what damage I can do.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2020 | 07:22 PM
  #12  
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Ok. definitely believe the picture that barneyboy provided is what I have. all rubber is removed and I can see an area inside the tank that appears to be where a stud could go into. Any ideas how to get the damn thing out? I have soaked in PB Blaster (just put another shot on) overnight. There is no good way to get anything on the remaining metal disk to apply any pressure to turn it. I assume it is not left hand thread though I have tried both directions. See pictures below. I am open for suggestions.

scott




 
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Old Mar 28, 2020 | 08:08 PM
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If you have a Dremel and a small cutting wheel (that can fit into the opening of the tank) Possibly 1/2-3/4" in diameter, cut a slot into it and use a flat blade screen driver. Make sure there are no fumes in the tank and be extremely careful not to cut the tank. A small slot should do it.. Or even a small chisel and a hammer and tap the edge in a counter clockwise direction.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2020 | 08:48 PM
  #14  
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I tried the hammer and chisel method with no success. If you look close at the tank around 6 o'clock to 4 o'clock you will see the results. I will have to rinse the tank out before getting any grinding going on. I can't see a reason the stud going into the tank would be left handed. No information on the thread being left handed was on the site you provide, though there is no reason to believe that is the manufacturer of the vibration isolation mount I have on the bike.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2020 | 05:21 AM
  #15  
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I really doubt it'll be left hand thread, is there any way you can look inside the tank to see what's in there or whatever.. Have you contacted precision cycle works?
http://www.pcwbikes.com/
 
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Old Mar 29, 2020 | 07:10 AM
  #16  
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CycleWorks is and has been out of business unfortunately. Looking in the tank I can see an area coming into the tank that the tank is molded around that appears to be where the female threads were attached to the tank. Going to try to get some kind of indention in the remaining piece to get a chisel or punch on it and try to turn. Trying to be patient as this is where I normally F up and end up ruining something.

scott
 
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Old Mar 29, 2020 | 08:40 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by 98hotrodfatboy
If you have a Dremel and a small cutting wheel (that can fit into the opening of the tank) Possibly 1/2-3/4" in diameter, cut a slot into it and use a flat blade screen driver. Make sure there are no fumes in the tank and be extremely careful not to cut the tank. A small slot should do it.. Or even a small chisel and a hammer and tap the edge in a counter clockwise direction.
Exactly what I would try. After cutting the slot, use a handheld impact driver with a flat bit.



 
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Old Apr 3, 2020 | 05:07 PM
  #18  
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Good idea on the impact tool. Along with that would be to have the tanks completely boiled out so that there is no gas residue and use the impact with heat from a propane torch.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2020 | 07:05 PM
  #19  
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I got the inserts out today. As suggested I used Dremel tool to make a small indent and then used hammer and chisel to back them out. Thanks for all the help!
 
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