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This dual-action polisher has a 9mm throw that lets you achieve defect-free results no matter how skilled you are. Its 1,000 watt motor provides six speed settings from 2,000 to 6,400 OPM and is cooled by a unique, patent-pending fan-cooled counterbalance.
Double-shot rubber coats every major touch point for maximum comfort while premium, sealed bearings, quick access brush side ports, and a vented 6-inch backing plate ensure minimal noise, heat, and vibration.
I'll give you a helpful tip - if you've never buffed with a RO/DA buffer, start with the saddlebags first. Learning the buffer on a flatter surface is much easier than starting on your front fairing. How much pressure you can put on the buffer, learning the stall, how to position it for best rotation, etc. will be learned much faster and easier on the flat sides of a saddlebag. Then move to the tank and you'll get an idea of how the pads speed up on convex curves, then do the side panels, then the fairing. Also mark either the pads or the backing plate with a contrasting dot or something you can see clearly so you can make sure the pad is spinning, it's hard to notice sometimes and that gives you a visual cue. And at first don't be afraid to experiment, it's extremely difficult to burn through paint with a 3" RO/DA buffer so take your time on those saddlebags, go over different parts multiple times with different pads and compounds or polishes, see what works best for your paint and your compounds and pads.
I personally use the Griot's G8 exclusively and did roughly 6-10 bikes per month. It's a great buffer with good power and is perfect for a beginner. I've migrated most of my pads and compounds/polishes over to Rupes, the pads seem to hold up better and the compounds/polishes have a much better finish than anything I've tried, and I've tried most of them. And they have a nice starter kit with 5 smaller bottles, all you do is match up the color of the bottle to the color of the pad and you're golden.
It's at least 200% easier to do the work if you remove all possible painted parts from the bike. Things like side covers, bags, tour pak, front fairing, and front fender aren't bad to remove. Get a cheap padded moving blanket from Amazon and put it on a decent table or bench with a good LED light overhead. Work there instead of constant kneeling at the bike with shadows. Another suggestion is to wear a good bright LED headlamp when doing hard-to-see or shadowed areas. It makes a big difference .
I did my wife’s CTS this weekend. She got hit around Thanksgiving in passenger fender and the front passenger V wheel. It was coated 3 years ago with Gyeon Pure Evo and it was still going strong
This time it got Kamikazi ISM 3.0 after it got polished out with CarPro Reflect on their gloss pad. This is an absolute killer combo if your looking for big time gloss Not bad for an 8 year old car
I did my wife’s CTS this weekend. She got hit around Thanksgiving in passenger fender and the front passenger V wheel. It was coated 3 years ago with Gyeon Pure Evo and it was still going strong
This time it got Kamikazi ISM 3.0 after it got polished out with CarPro Reflect on their gloss pad. This is an absolute killer combo if your looking for big time gloss Not bad for an 8 year old car
Looks good. I wish that my skills were good enough to make my vehicles look that good.