Need help diagnosing problem....
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Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 655
Likes: 6
Need help diagnosing problem: CheckEngline/Battery lights
I'm getting check engine and battery lights on. The code said low battery voltage. The battery is brand new.
I rode around the other day hoping it would straighten itself out, except it didn't. When I got home, the battery was dead and the bike wouldn't start.
Would a voltage regulator cause the battery to not charge while riding?
2007 Wide Glide
I rode around the other day hoping it would straighten itself out, except it didn't. When I got home, the battery was dead and the bike wouldn't start.
Would a voltage regulator cause the battery to not charge while riding?
2007 Wide Glide
Last edited by Steel Steed; Sep 27, 2014 at 01:21 PM.
yes it will .. but do ur self a favor and slow charge the battery overnight with nothing hooked to it and see if it comes back to life ,,, even new batteries sit on the shelf at the store for who knows how long,, if the battery voltage is to low the charging system never has a chance to catch up just by riding,.
Mike
Mike
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 859
Likes: 14
From: Millsboro Delaware
Unhook the battery and charge overnight as jmn160 has said. Re connect the battery and test the charging system. It could be a bad battery, voltage regulator or stator. Possible bad wiring as well. If you have the service manual it should have the testing procedures in it. I have an 07 Low Rider and the manual so if you need the info let me know.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,557
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From: Texas
Get a multimeter. Start with checking your battery volts. You should read AT LEAST 12.5 vdc static. If this reading is good, crank it up and check for 13.5 vdc MINIMUM across the battery. If you do not read 13.5 vdc or more, check the main fuse, probably a 40 amp behind the fuse box. If you do not have 13.5 volts across the battery terminals and the fuse is good, check the stator.
To check the stator, shut down and disconnect the voltage regulator plug at the stator. Grab the stator plug and read across the pins for low resistance...you should read close to continuity or shorted. This checks out the coils. Then read from each pin to ground for opens. ANY reading to ground indicates a shorted to ground coil and your stator is **** up.
If the stator continuity tests are good you will need to check the stator output. With the stator disconnected, crank it up and set your meter to read AC volts. You should read around 16-20 vac per 1000 rpm. Make sure the ac volts increase as you increase engine rpm. A faulty stator may put out ac volts that will not increase like it is supposed to if the stator has an internal short in the coils but is not shorted to ground.
If your stator tests good, then your voltage regulator is bad or you have a wiring problem from the voltage regulator to the main fuse from the fuse to the battery.
If you do not understand these instructions, then get someone to help you who does or take it to a professional and let them fix it.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
To check the stator, shut down and disconnect the voltage regulator plug at the stator. Grab the stator plug and read across the pins for low resistance...you should read close to continuity or shorted. This checks out the coils. Then read from each pin to ground for opens. ANY reading to ground indicates a shorted to ground coil and your stator is **** up.
If the stator continuity tests are good you will need to check the stator output. With the stator disconnected, crank it up and set your meter to read AC volts. You should read around 16-20 vac per 1000 rpm. Make sure the ac volts increase as you increase engine rpm. A faulty stator may put out ac volts that will not increase like it is supposed to if the stator has an internal short in the coils but is not shorted to ground.
If your stator tests good, then your voltage regulator is bad or you have a wiring problem from the voltage regulator to the main fuse from the fuse to the battery.
If you do not understand these instructions, then get someone to help you who does or take it to a professional and let them fix it.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 235
From: Texas
I also recently had an intermittent voltage regulator. I was on a short road trip in June and had to get a jump after fueling up. I rode to a dealer that was close by and they could not find anything wrong. I had the same thing happen again a couple of months later and this time I found out that my regulator had failed. The dealer service manager told me that heat related intermittent failures of voltage regulators was not uncommon.
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Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2011
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To check the stator, shut down and disconnect the voltage regulator plug at the stator. Grab the stator plug and read across the pins for low resistance...you should read close to continuity or shorted. This checks out the coils. Then read from each pin to ground for opens. ANY reading to ground indicates a shorted to ground coil and your stator is **** up.
I finally got a chance to do some testing and it looks like I'm in the market for a new stator.
Any suggestions on upgraded parts or other things to consider?
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Joined: Jan 2007
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From: along the shore of Mishigami
If you are doing the work I'd go with a Cycle Electric stator and regulator, if an indy is doing the work still go with the Cycle Electric. If A HD dealer does the work you would probably end up with the HD stuff.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 235
From: Texas
yes it will .. but do ur self a favor and slow charge the battery overnight with nothing hooked to it and see if it comes back to life ,,, even new batteries sit on the shelf at the store for who knows how long,, if the battery voltage is to low the charging system never has a chance to catch up just by riding,.
Mike
Mike