Ok 2012 FXDWG. Cruising at night gauge lights cut out and indicators for the blinkers and high beams also. All my lights on the bike still work. I do notice that is seems my headlight gets a little brighter when this happens. Sometimes it comes back on quickly, sometimes it stays off for a while. I am at the point where I start with replacing the regulator. I have stated looking at wires and checking grounds and for melted of broken wires. There is a large part of the harness that goes through the frame. I am not sure if anyone has had any issues like this but any insight, help or direction would be great. The code it sets is 2272 which is speedometer voltage high.

 

check battery connections and all grounds, corrosion in plugs, and also check voltage regulator and stator

 

Checked all the wires and plugs I could without taking apart to much. Did pull battery box out, console off, check all the wires down there and the grounds on the back fender. I have no issues with the bike during the day. It is only at night when the gauge lights and indicators cut on. Some nights, I can ride and have no problems. Some nights like leaving Myrtle Beach at 10 pm is not a good time to not be able to see your speed. The obvious signs point to some sort of wire short, but everything seemed ok. No bent pins, all connectors free of debris, all ends fully in the connectors. I could always pull all the wires and cut the sheeting to see if something is melted or shorted, but that's like that last last last thing I want to do.

 

I have a 14 Street Bob with the same issue since about 200 miles. I'm waiting before I take the bike back to the dealer. After the 1st trip, they told me it was a normal occurrence for the dash lights to not work. I had to make some phone calls and videos of the issue as it happened. They anticipate having to replace the body control module (BCM) which is indicated in the error code (B2272) description.

Does yours also idle high until the red light in the speedo comes on, the everything works properly?

 

Def let me know what they do to fix it please. Use that warranty bro. I do all my own work but I wish I would have gotten more out of my warranty. My local shop changed my front master cylinder for me a few times and ones of the times they left the throttle side loose. Luckly I made it home and caught it. Needless to say, I just prayed nothing went wrong and didn't get the extension so I wouldn't have to take it there. But if you have a good shop don't be afraid to use that warranty. I do not notice an RPM change. When the lights come back on my red light does come on, but I believe that is indicating a code. Tonight I went and rode for a little bit and no issues. I can never get it to act up just sitting at idle. My idle doesn't seem high around 1400 when I crank it up then quickly down to 1200 or so. Once I start riding and get to a stop light its around 1000. I ride pretty aggressively but never really rev my RPMS past 4000 before I shift to the next gear. The other night when it kept happening I was riding about 65 to 70 in 6th gear. I do notice the headlight gets brighter right before it happens, but it is not the high beam. Then it goes back to normal when the lights cut back on. As I said too the needle on the speedometer still works while the lights are out. I have never been able to see well enough when it happens of the digital display still shows the readouts. I imagine it goes off since the back light to it does. Very strange issue and I really don't want to go tossing parts and it cause we all know how quickly that adds up. Thanks all for and help and advice.

 

Verify the output from the voltage regulator...lots of bad/intermittent voltage regulators on 2012's. There was a recall, but it expired recently.

 

So have you changed the handlebars, run internal wiring, or put on the Harley chrome switch covers ? I had a pinched wire in the handlebars and it didn't show up until I frayed a wire from a rear turn signal.

 

NH: I have a guy that works at the Harley shop, but electrical is not his specialty. He said if there was a voltage regulator issue, I should see more than just one code. I will have to check it myself though. Dyna:
I have changed the bars to a 10 inch tall T-bar still using internal wiring, so I really didn't have to screw with too much. I still have the black covers, but have removed them, changing the bars. I have pulled the slack out (plenty of it) at numerous spots on the bike. All the wire loom if you would is still good no spots rubbed through. Where was your wire issue? Up in the bars by the controls? I Have been playing and playing in my spare time. Removing, inspecting, reinstalling, hoping that I will see something, find something. After removing most of the parts out of the electrical box and checking connectors, I did run into one problem. On my way to work this morning I got an engine light and it was spitting out all sorts of lost communication codes. I pulled my electrical box off checked to make sure everything was secure, and tried again. Luckly I didn't have to turn around and get my truck, no more light. The fact that I had a light and nothing was obviously wrong, like leaving something unplugged or pulling a wire out. It makes me think I may be looking in the right area. I haven't given up, just can only go in circles a few times a month.

 

DISTURBEDRYAN...Yes it was in one of the the switch housings. The thing that was so weird was the fact that it didn't show up until a turn signal wire rubbed through on the rear tire. That's when the short showed up...no speedo or any dash lights, just headlight. The way I found it was to replace the wiring harness to the rear end and it still had no lights, so I had to start hunting.