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Getting a slight wobble...

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Old Oct 12, 2014 | 09:15 PM
  #11  
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The cupping will do what you describe. Just replaced a front tire for a friend who was experiencing the same issue. solved it with new rubber.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2014 | 12:35 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by John_K
The cupping will do what you describe. Just replaced a front tire for a friend who was experiencing the same issue. solved it with new rubber.
Thanks for all the input and advise.

I am going to replace both tires this week. I just ordered them along with replacement chrome valve stems from Rocky Mountain ATV/MC and they should be here Thursday. It's supposed to be a good riding day here on Saturday and I have my fingers crossed that my ride will be RTG by then.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2014 | 10:47 AM
  #13  
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The Intiminators will greatly improve your brake dive. If you also do Traxxion single rate springs and adjusters (SM or RSD) fork tube assembly is much much easier. It may take a few attempts to get the sag where you want it (~30% is ideal) but there's a great thread with lot's of good input on getting it dialed in.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2014 | 02:15 PM
  #14  
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While the wheels are off the bike, check the bearings in *both*. That many miles more than likely a bearing or two isn't working anymore or is about to explode. If they're bad in one, do all of them (two in each wheel). I had a bearing on the rear wheel going out on me but I was swearing up and down that the sound and feel was the drive pulley from the front end of the primary. You can be fooled easily when it's a first time happening.

If you want to keep things easier on the wallet and stiffen the front end a little, get the Progressive drop-in HD springs. No need to worry about the oil, leave that as is. An easy, 1/2 hour job.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2014 | 09:28 PM
  #15  
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My last front tire did that. It looked good and I checked everything else first. After replacing the tire it was back to normal.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2014 | 11:58 PM
  #16  
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Got the new tires yesterday so I pulled off the front and rear tires this evening...the front bearings look good but the rear left bearing has a big dent in the seal and the tire is toast...down on the wear bars and some serious looking cracks all around the centerline...I will post some pics tomorrow. That tire was put on new about 18 months ago and has around 13K miles on it...

Off to the indy tomorrow morning for a tire and bearing change...gonna leave the front alone and just do the rear this time.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2014 | 11:34 AM
  #17  
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I recalculated and the rear tire has just over 10K miles, which is a little longer than the expected useful life of the rear Dunlop 401 tire so I got my $$ worth out of it. The cracks (see photo) are all around the center-line and are dry-rot according to my indy... This is interesting considering that the tire date is 2411 which would make it made sometime around May, 2011, and I ride almost daily...The damage to the bearing was probably caused my me not paying close attention when I was driving out the axle...

 
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Old Oct 19, 2014 | 07:48 PM
  #18  
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Default Final Update...

It was the tires.

2 new tires and valve stems, mounted and balanced, replaced rear bearings...$450. the tires and valve stems cost $239 and the bearings cost me $25...the rest was labor. I thought the labor costs were kinda steep for an indy, considering I pulled and reinstalled the tires, but it didn't take a week like it would have at the HD dealer. I cannot complain, though...I could have done all of the labor myself but I didn't want to hassle with buying tire tools and finding a bearing removal tool and then humping on those wheels all afternoon....Throw in replacing the front brake pads that I did myself, $485 total spent on this old SG this weekend...

Beautiful day today so I rode for a couple of hours...no more wobble. Everything is working great...

 
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Old Oct 22, 2014 | 08:21 PM
  #19  
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I dont know if the cost is any different between the EBC and HAWK sintered pads. I used the hawk pads that I got at J&P and they are the best pads I have ever used . Bike stops right now . Used to have major fade with stock .. not so with the HAWK pads. Made in U.S.A. and work great.
 
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Old Oct 22, 2014 | 10:02 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by missedem
I dont know if the cost is any different between the EBC and HAWK sintered pads. I used the hawk pads that I got at J&P and they are the best pads I have ever used . Bike stops right now . Used to have major fade with stock .. not so with the HAWK pads. Made in U.S.A. and work great.
So far I am pleased with the EBCs... I am hoping to get more miles out of them. I do not remember what brand I put on last time but they were organic. They worked just fine but put out a lot of residue on my cast wheels and wore out pretty fast. Sintered is supposed to be better for stopping and less residue but harder on the rotors.
 
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