I have read several posts about slip-ons. For the most part, threads say that remapping or tuning is not really necessary. I have a 2011 FXDWG with EFI. I ordered Cycle shack 2 1/2in slip-ons and need a no B.S. answer on weather I should or shouldn't remap or tune. I am not mechanically inclined but I am capable of taking off stuff and putting stuff back together. A little help will go a long way.

 

if you leave your stock intake, no, you can do slip ons no problem, if you swap out and do an aftermarket intake and the slip ons then you will need a tuner as the bike comes from the factory lean and that will push it into an area that is no longer safe

 

Agree, slip ons and a high intake air filter might also cause you some serious decel popping without a new software map. I did V&H slip ons and a high flow a/c and had that problem that only a new map fixed on my 14 WG.

 

For your 2011 a tune is not needed when doing just slip-ons. However, it WILL run much better if you do something with the tune.

Here's a good thread with some good overviews that will help you decide what, if anything, you want to do with the tune.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/ignit...uning-etc.html

 

Like others told you no tune needed. BUT a good tune will sure make the bike run better.

 

Hi and welcome.

I agree with all above, that being said, keep in mind that if youtune the bike each time you change out components you will need another re-map to make it perfect again.

What do you mean not mechanically inclined? Being capable of removing and replacing stuff is the very root of mechanical work. The rest is knowledge and experience, and there is only one way to get those!

 

2 ways to go with this.
Just slip on's no tune needed. However if you are going to a full stage 1 then it needs to be done. Good part is if you do a tune with slip ons and then do a open ac most of your work is done except a retune. If you get it from fuelmotousa you have a life time of maps.

 

To the OP:

Yup, as you know, there are about a billion of these threads, and they all show that everyone is in complete disagreement, because the answers all contradict each other; one third says "yes", one third says "no", and one third says: "it depends". How can that be, given that everyone who owns a Harley is an expert?

Well, because it boils down to total confusion on the meaning of "have to", in the context of: "If I put on ______, do I have to do a tune?"

No, you do not have to. You don't have to do anything. You don't have to pay your taxes, and you don't have to be faithful to your significant other. However, as in all aspects of life, there are consequences to the choices that we make. Who knew a thread on tuning would be all about life?

To answer your question straight up, if you only do slipons, no, you do not have to do a tune. However...

All late model EFI Harley-Davidsons come with the air-fuel ratio set quite lean in order to meet EPA requirements.

1. If you do slipons without a tune, then the bike will run leaner than stock. Lean enough to risk damage? No.

2. This will cause your bike to run hotter than stock. Hot enough to risk damage? No.

3. This will cause an increase in decel popping.

4. You will not get all the torque and horsepower increase that you paid for when you bought the slipons.

Your bike, your money, your call.

However, if you do both mufflers and an air cleaner and you don't do a tune, and if you like to really use that round twisty thing on the right side of the handlebars, then you will risk engine damage.

Hope that was the no BS answer you were looking for.

Keep your head on a swivel, and ride safe.

 

I know you mean well but, please explain to me how that is possible?

If the MoCo had put a sensible cam in our Harleys -- Maybe.

But there's no overlap; it least in mine there isn't. I think it's minus 4 degrees of overlap. Something ridiculous.

So how can a free-flowing exhaust affect the A/F ratio in any way?

Answer: It can't. No way.

The O2 sensor? Dumb as a box of rocks. All it does is read the O2 level and send it to the computer. And it's always within a couple inches of the exhaust port, not downstream where it might matter in a free flow situation...... If it could even read it -- Which it can't.

Now, you start messing with the intake side and you better do some thinking first.

As usual, I could be wrong. But I don't see it if I am.

 

A lot of opinions expressed here go back to the old carburetor days.

One nice thing about modern electronic engine controls is that they will automatically compensate for changes in conditions, like an altitude change, and put fuel mixtures back close to stock. A freer-flowing air filter, or a dirty stock one, isn't much different from an altitude change.

I have two bikes with "Stage One", and no tuning. They both run fine (which is not to say that they couldn't possibly run a little better). One was checked on a dyno, and the fuel/air mixtures were considered quite safe by the dyno operator.