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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
I bought the Lyndals primarily for the huge unsprung weight savings; they were great brakes and can look really stunning and exotic with different rotor and pin finishes if you wish, too.
I believe it was nearly 15lbs between two rotors. Also used an Excell aluminum rim. The bike still belongs to someone on this board; he can speak to the steering, felt like power steering compared to a regular Dyna...
I believe it was nearly 15lbs between two rotors. Also used an Excell aluminum rim. The bike still belongs to someone on this board; he can speak to the steering, felt like power steering compared to a regular Dyna...
Looked into this a bit more on the weight savings.
The lyndal rotors weigh 1.6 lbs each.
I took the weight my rotors from my FXDXT and together they weighed aprox. 9 lbs.
Not a huge differance.
Looked into this a bit more on the weight savings.
The lyndal rotors weigh 1.6 lbs each.
I took the weight my rotors from my FXDXT and together they weighed aprox. 9 lbs.
Not a huge differance.
So, if a person was trying to get the best handling possible from a Dyna (reason to start with an FXDX) you really don't think 6lbs off the 19" front wheel isn't significant?
I would just do a 95" personally. I've never heard go to 110", either 95 or 97" My friend did a 103 and he makes a lot more power but it doesnt hook up much and he breaks other parts.
I'm satisfied with my 95. Itll never be a sport bike, and there are plenty of stout 95 inchers...I guess it depends what you want to do with it. I want to hit the starter and not worry, do 1,000 miles over a weekend and no issues. 7,000 trouble free miles on it this summer. If you want "insane", 95" probably isnt the best choice.
110" sounds like a headache, or if not, extremely expensive to make reliable. Motor parts are expensive enough as it is.
This is just my opinion of course and Im sure someone has a 110" that isnt fast enough for them and has been reliable as anything.
So, if a person was trying to get the best handling possible from a Dyna (reason to start with an FXDX) you really don't think 6lbs off the 19" front wheel isn't significant?
Not at all.
It takes aprox. a 7lbs weight saving to gain 1 HP & the handling and forks will work a bit better.
Unless you are a pro racer on a road course or drag strip that needs every ounce of performance out of that bike, I don't think the average person using there bike on the street or for tour riding will notice it.
I changed my front calipers on my FXDXT to the HD Brembo calipers that I got for cheap and there is more than enough brake for what I use my bike for.
At a $500 list price a rotor it would be the last mod I would do on my bike.
I would rather spend that money on the dog of a stock motor to wake it up.
I just picked up Lyndall Gold pads and wanted to get new rotors...was about to buy EBC rotors, but I really want the Lyndall composite rotors, but can dump almost $1,000 just on 2 rotors yet.
Definitely a future mod, but will be sticking the Lyndall Gold pads on my stock rotors for now.
Looked into this a bit more on the weight savings.
The lyndal rotors weigh 1.6 lbs each.
I took the weight my rotors from my FXDXT and together they weighed aprox. 9 lbs.
Not a huge differance.
That's a substantial difference! And it's one I'm sure the average rider who is "in tune" with his machine would easily notice.
Furthermore, it's one that a rider who likes to push his bike to the limits of it's handling on a daily basis would greatly benefit from. It's simple physics...
To the OP, enjoy the bike. Enjoy the process of making it yours. I'm sure whatever you do will be great!
I've done chassis, brake, and suspension upgrades. Motor is a simple stage 1 at this point. I'd like to add some lighting. Saddlebags really open these bikes potential up, I'd consider some.
They're never done are they...
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