When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
You could always just use a Dunkin' Donuts straw like my cheap *** is going to do.
Ha! great idea, but I'm freaked out enough taking on a bunch of winter projects that I don't think I'm ready to make my own tools! I'll be following instructions to a t. Ended up just ordering the tool and some snap pliers that I needed via Amazon
Thanks for all this good info. I'm about to do the install on my fat bob, including intiminators and RSD preload adjusters. I don't have single rate springs but plan to just use stock for now. I'm using a Pella marine oil extractor.
Question on sucking the old oil out. Is there a technique here to get all/most out? Can you get the tube down below the dampening rod?
personally i think that if you are going to take off the wheel and fender then it is literally 2 bolts per tube to remove the tubes. then you can drain them over a bucket and get 100% of it out and work on it straight up and down
to me seems easier and that is the way i did it on my 06. My 14 has stock front end but im sure at some point i will be doing the front end
i also used the amsoil shock therapy #10 with stock springs and stock length spacer
i am very interested in the pre load adjusters some of yall have used, that sounds pretty nice
Thanks I see your point. I was't planning on pulling the wheel or fender though and since I bought the pump I'm committed to trying it this way for now. Plus, if Brian at Ricor uses this approach it can't be all bad.
Thanks I see your point. I was't planning on pulling the wheel or fender though and since I bought the pump I'm committed to trying it this way for now. Plus, if Brian at Ricor uses this approach it can't be all bad.
When will you be doing the swap? Would love to hear how it went leaving wheel on, etc and how long it takes. I plan to do similarly since I have no way to hold the fork tubes if I were to remove them. Where did you get the pump and how much was it?
When will you be doing the swap? Would love to hear how it went leaving wheel on, etc and how long it takes. I plan to do similarly since I have no way to hold the fork tubes if I were to remove them. Where did you get the pump and how much was it?
Just my worthless .02 but I would suggest saving the $40 and just taking off the wheel and fender. Your talking like 30 minutes max to remove everything on the front end. It takes me 30 and I have to screw with removing my fairing. If you remove the tubes you can get 100% of the oil out and you will get a more accurate measurement when you refill it. You don't really need anything to hold the tubes while you do this.
Loosen the top pinch bolt, and then crack the top cap loose. Then loosen the bottom pinch bolt and remove the tube. Put the slider on top of your shoe with a rag under it and spin the tube while holding the cap. Hold that cap tight because it could fly away on you ( don't put your face over it). Turn the tube upside down in a clean bucket and let the spacer, washer and spring fall out. Let it drain for a while. Clean everything up slide in the intiminator, push it down with the spring and fill the tube up (add until you think your slightly over where you want it. Again, put the slider on your shoe and pump the tube 6-7 times or until you don't hear air gurgling. Add a little more fluid. Now with the tube standing straight up use your measurement tool to suck it down to the right level. Then in go your spring, washer and spacer (trimmed to your sag) and you can slide it back into the tree. Snug up the bottom pinch bolt and reinstall your cap. Tighten upper pinch bolt and repeat for the other side. You don't really need anything to hold the tube, I completely took my slider assembly apart for power coat and I didn't have anything to hold the tube either .
Edit: Put the tube back in the trees before you slide in the spring, washer and spacer.. That will keep the fluid level down and you'll have less chance of making a mess. Also don't forget to torque the pinch bolts properly. I'm assuming you have a service manual..
Last edited by monster715; Dec 21, 2014 at 04:52 PM.
Just my worthless .02 but I would suggest saving the $40 and just taking off the wheel and fender. Your talking like 30 minutes max to remove everything on the front end. It takes me 30 and I have to screw with removing my fairing. If you remove the tubes you can get 100% of the oil out and you will get a more accurate measurement when you refill it. You don't really need anything to hold the tubes while you do this.
Loosen the top pinch bolt, and then crack the top cap loose. Then loosen the bottom pinch bolt and remove the tube. Put the slider on top of your shoe with a rag under it and spin the tube while holding the cap. Hold that cap tight because it could fly away on you ( don't put your face over it). Turn the tube upside down in a clean bucket and let the spacer, washer and spring fall out. Let it drain for a while. Clean everything up slide in the intiminator, push it down with the spring and fill the tube up (add until you think your slightly over where you want it. Again, put the slider on your shoe and pump the tube 6-7 times or until you don't hear air gurgling. Add a little more fluid. Now with the tube standing straight up use your measurement tool to suck it down to the right level. Then in go your spring, washer and spacer (trimmed to your sag) and you can slide it back into the tree. Snug up the bottom pinch bolt and reinstall your cap. Tighten upper pinch bolt and repeat for the other side. You don't really need anything to hold the tube, I completely took my slider assembly apart for power coat and I didn't have anything to hold the tube either .
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.