124" winter build...
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,464
Likes: 50
From: Rouses Point, N.Y.
vdrop. you are Exactly right that's looks like a lot of oil in the intake port . The newer engines use Positive valve stem seals which have a small groove cut into the top of the seal that rides on the stem. This design keeps a small amount of oil against the valve stem and only allows a very small film of oil past it to lubricate the valve guide. With all that extra oil in the intake port area possible bad seal,valve guide to stem clearance issue.
Last edited by target64; Apr 13, 2015 at 02:00 PM.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,464
Likes: 50
From: Rouses Point, N.Y.
monster the only way that oil can get into the intake port is to get past the valve seal down the valve guide into the intake. can you see the top of the valve seal towards the base of the head bottom of valve spring, there will be a small circle spring that compresses the seal around the valve stem. if that missing it will leak for sure. look at both valves you be able to see them.
Last edited by target64; Apr 13, 2015 at 08:41 PM.
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Road Warrior
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,718
Likes: 15
From: Bay area, CA
Target and soft, unfortunately I read your advice too late... I was able to get it all back together today, if I start having oil using issues I'll deal with it then. Although I think my head will explode if that happens (my actual head not the bike). Here's the front piston, it seems to be a bit better but still more residue then I expected. It's a good thing I replaced it, the heads bolts seemed more loose then the rear did. I feel much better about the torque sequence this time, thank you vdop for recommending letting the bolts sit a while and then go over them again, both heads had bolts that moved a little the second time around, solid on the third
All back together, worst parts are wrestling that damn pipe without scratching the **** out of it and spilling gas everywhere with the tank. One day I'll figure out the trick to that crossover but it seems every time I make a mess. I hope the gaskets hold this time around, I don't want to do this once a month, fingers crossed
All back together, worst parts are wrestling that damn pipe without scratching the **** out of it and spilling gas everywhere with the tank. One day I'll figure out the trick to that crossover but it seems every time I make a mess. I hope the gaskets hold this time around, I don't want to do this once a month, fingers crossed
Last edited by monster715; Apr 14, 2015 at 12:23 AM.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,464
Likes: 50
From: Rouses Point, N.Y.
have the same grips love them, just keep track of your oil level and occasionally check your plugs you will see any oil residue if its using oil.
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 854
Likes: 20
From: CT
I agree, a lot of times it's just fuel
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Road Warrior
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,718
Likes: 15
From: Bay area, CA
Just got home from work and fired her up for the first time since I replaced the gaskets. First crank she lit off and idled great. No kickback, no wierd starting issues. I let it run for about 4-5 minutes and shut her down before the neighbors started throwing **** at me. I'm trying to figure out how to avoid this happening again, aside from not properly torquing the heads...(live and learn I guess) How long do you guys with 10.5+ cr let your bikes warm up before heading out? I'm pretty good about letting it idle for a few minutes before taking off but should I be letting the temp start to come up even more? Like wait til the oil pressure starts dropping off or something?