Ok, Searching this topic is useless, due to the massive amount of hits . . . but I tried. Long post - but I tried to get all the info in here.

Went for a ride today, and after a little while, she started to stall out, only when clutching, and mostly coming to a stop. Not consistent, but my area has a bunch of stop signs & little intersections, so I'm coming to a near stop, or taking lots of 90* rights or lefts. Stalling sucks. This has never been a problem before. Here is the rundown:

07 Superglide.
V&H Fuelpak
V&H shortshots w/ quiet baffles
4,2XX miles
Purchased 10/14 with 3,800 miles.
Subsequent (right after I bought it) full service at a local indy with a great rep.
New rider - first bike ever.
Last rode on X-mas day, ~25 miles (2 days ago), no problems at all.
Original battery - doing fine, but I know I will need to replace it soon - always on tender when not riding.

My bike has some 12" mini apes. Yesterday, I loosened up the clamp, to tilt them back a tiny bit. I moved them literally one "notch" on the splines. I also adjusted the right-side hand controls so that the level was pointing more down - also just a tiny bit. I did not touch the left side, since when I first got the bike, I did drop it due to nit fully deploying the kickstand. That control was already angled down a bit from the fall, so I just got them even, and I am more comfortable with that angle.

So, I start to think, maybe I messed up the calibration of the throttle of the Fuelpak when I rotated the controls. It's one unit, should not have done anything, but I figured I'd check. Well, I did, and it reads perfect (0 closed, 99 WOT).

No check engine light, no codes. Always restarts, but did seem to fight me a little bit one or two times. Idle SEEMS lower, less consistent, but I can't be sure.

One more thing, when I go the bike, it has standard V&H baffles. It was too loud, and also there was significant popping on decel. After about 50-60 miles, I installed the quiet baffles, and changed the Fuelpack settings for the QBs. The popping on decel decreased by 90%. Well, now it's back, a lot of it. I can only assume there is no fuel getting in the cylinders when I'm off the throttle, but in gear and moving.

When I'm going, it GOES, seems just like normal, plenty of power.

I checked a few other connectors, but everything under the seat seemed as it should be.

SEEMS like the throttle cables (why are there two again?) are not obstructed or pinched, or anything.

I have a hard time with the fact that I rotated the control yesterday, and have a problem today. I don't really believe in coincidences.

While not pleasant, I can keep it from stalling with a little throttle, but honestly, I'm not that good of a rider yet. I could drive a 5-speed car that had a bad IAC all day long, but not loving it on the bike.

Since verifying the Fuelpak throttle calibration, I have not started it again or attempted t ride it.

If all else fails, I will bring it to the shop, but without codes, I feel like these intermittent problems are almost impossible to track down.

I know I could take the Fuelpak out, that might let me see what's going on, but I have no baseline, as it was on the bike when I got it. I know they can and do occasionally go bad.

Thanks in advance if you chime in to help a noob.

 

no moving your throttle that little bit should not be a issue, adjust your throttle cables properly with the bike running I find best, im not sure on the fuel pak so I would even touch it.. mine runs the pc3 which I just plug the lap top in too. and run their supplied maps.. sticky iac valve yes could be , but my bet cable adjustment

 

i would do a full restart on the fuel pak. Reset it and re enter your codes you need or call V&H for the codes. Maybe want to disco the plug and run stock to see if the stalling is still occurring. Since the fuel pak only tricks the ecu into running right it might need a fresh reboot. Just my thoughts if i had a fuel pak.

 

Long description. Fuel pack has a setting that cuts off fuel when you decel to eliminate the popping. Not sure which mode it is. But you can adjust it up a little at a time to get it right. Some bikes want to stall when this setting is to low. Call customer service at V&H and they'll help you out. I would have to find my instructions to be able to give you the mode to adjust. Just tell them your bike wants to stall when getting off the throttle. You'll probably get more popping when you adjust it up. Hope that's the easy solution. Two cables one throttle one idle.

 

I'd start with the IAC metering needle in the throttle bore, clean it with some MAP cleaner, don't forget there are oil vapors going through it besides air. Then recheck the maps on the ECM.

 

Thanks for all the input guys. Starting to think its a coincidence after all, since I managed to find the mother of all 2007 idle problems thread: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...le-issues.html

Tommorow, I'll clean the IAC. Then check to see if my bike has had the retune from the TT410. Figure its IAC, TPS, or VSS replacement after that, but that will be my mechanic's call. Once down the rabbit hole of possible bad sensors, he can do it, because he'll keep going until its working perfect.

 

Alright. Cleaned the IAC with some MAF cleaner, it did drip some black goo, but not tons. I needed to blip the throttle to get it to start, but rode around a bunch, up to operating temp i assume, stopped it and started it a few times. So far so good. Only time will tell if this took care of it.

I'm not sure if it was acting a little funny or not, as my mind will play tricks on me when I think there is a problem, no stalls or low idle.

 

From the Vance and Hines Website:

Q. My pipe “pops” when coming to a stop, what can I do to eliminate that?

A. The Fuelpak has a function which shuts off the fuel when decelerating. No fuel=no pop. Obviously the Fuelpak has to turn the fuel back on at some point or the engine would die. Not all popping can be eliminated, but this feature does lessen it. Mode 23 controls the rpm where the fuel is turned back on. Try lowering this by one number and see if it helps you. If you have done this and have gotten to 14 or your bike is stalling when coming to a stop, that is all you can do and you will not be able to lessen the popping without changing the pipes or installing quieter baffles. The popping is not harmful, just annoying.

Q. My bike feels like it is running out of gas when I am approaching a stop.

A. Increase the value in mode 23 to 25 and try that. This will probably lead to some decel popping; it will be a trade off.

 

Thanks guys, but the funny thing is, on the day I kept stalling, I got MORE decel popping. Seems it should be the other way around.

But as I said, as of my last ride, I think I'm good. Ran the whole thing by the indy mechanic today, and we both agree to a "wait and see" since cleaning the IAC, I seem to be good.

 

Decel popping is just another term for Backfire. It may also be referred to as Misfire. Backfiring occurs when fuel is ignited outside the combustion chamber. Backfires usually occur when you decelerate rapidly. A lean air/fuel mixture (too much air) can also cause backfires. Backfiring is the reason for Mode 23 on your Vance & Hines Fuelpak. The Fuelpak shuts off the fuel when decelerating to prevent backfiring. Mode 23 tells it at what RPM to turn the fuel back on to prevent stalling.

If cleaning the IAC fixes your problem then a lean air/fuel mixture might have been the problem. Also, make sure you idle RPM is at the factory spec. If you don't have a tach you can get the rpm's from the Fuelpak. ~Good Luck