Any good handlebar swapping threads (late model)?
Thread Starter
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 3,410
Likes: 143
From: Palm Desert,CA
Any good handlebar swapping threads (late model)?
Hi all,
With new bars and grips on the way I've started to search, online and here for good videos, tips, etc.
Of course I have my shop manual but as an example it has me removing my gas tank entirely to remove the hand controls, whereas at least one member said all he had to do was remove the panels on the side of the neck to access connectors. Most of the videos have taught me how to de-pin the connectors but I thought somewhere that it was mentioned with late model bikes that I may not even have to do this and that the entire connector may fit through the bar's internal wiring holes.
Most of my searches on this board have turned out to not be right for my situation either.
So I'm wondering if anyone has any favorite threads or videos they can steer me to, or simply some advice (beyond patience) on steps to start with or avoid. Special tools I may not be thinking of, yadda yadda. You know, basically an HD Pilot thread
\
I will as usual document myself in an effort to have an all encompassing one but hoping to avoid as many after the fact "You know, you could have easily just..." comments.
thanks as always!
With new bars and grips on the way I've started to search, online and here for good videos, tips, etc.
Of course I have my shop manual but as an example it has me removing my gas tank entirely to remove the hand controls, whereas at least one member said all he had to do was remove the panels on the side of the neck to access connectors. Most of the videos have taught me how to de-pin the connectors but I thought somewhere that it was mentioned with late model bikes that I may not even have to do this and that the entire connector may fit through the bar's internal wiring holes.
Most of my searches on this board have turned out to not be right for my situation either.
So I'm wondering if anyone has any favorite threads or videos they can steer me to, or simply some advice (beyond patience) on steps to start with or avoid. Special tools I may not be thinking of, yadda yadda. You know, basically an HD Pilot thread
\I will as usual document myself in an effort to have an all encompassing one but hoping to avoid as many after the fact "You know, you could have easily just..." comments.
thanks as always!
Thread Starter
|
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 3,410
Likes: 143
From: Palm Desert,CA
No favorite threads eh? I've been going through YouTube and as many other searches with not much that encompasses all. Guess I may be on my own but any helpful advice from those with late models would be appreciated.
At this point I'm thinking
Step 1, see if I can access connectors via neck without removing tank
If so then I'll remove grips and slide everything off that I can. I Don't think I should need to remove any brake or clutch cables from levers.
Step 2 see if connectors will fit through holes if yes then great if not then I'll draw out all colors and de-pin
Step 3 remove old bars
Step 4 use fishing line and try to draw wiring through new bars and I it switches on, mount new bars re attach throttle, adjust clutch and throttle cables and done!
Sounds easy in my head. Advice, wisdom, things that might fall that I need to keep track of?
At this point I'm thinking
Step 1, see if I can access connectors via neck without removing tank
If so then I'll remove grips and slide everything off that I can. I Don't think I should need to remove any brake or clutch cables from levers.
Step 2 see if connectors will fit through holes if yes then great if not then I'll draw out all colors and de-pin
Step 3 remove old bars
Step 4 use fishing line and try to draw wiring through new bars and I it switches on, mount new bars re attach throttle, adjust clutch and throttle cables and done!
Sounds easy in my head. Advice, wisdom, things that might fall that I need to keep track of?
Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 151
Likes: 5
From: Iowa
I changed my 07 and it wasn't bad just time consuming depining all the connectors which I had to do as my new bars were made for internal wiring. No special tools except a very stiff piece of wire for the release on the connectors.
Also take lots and lots of pictures if you unpin connectors. I did and still pinned one wrong and had to redo.
Good luck!
Also take lots and lots of pictures if you unpin connectors. I did and still pinned one wrong and had to redo.
Good luck!
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,718
Likes: 15
From: Bay area, CA
Robby changing your bars is going to be way easier then that can swap you just did so you should be confident you can do it. Couple tips that come to mind. Don't remove the tank entirely but if you unbolt it and slide it back it will make getting to the wires in the frame much easier. Just be careful not to scratch your rocker covers with the fuel bung on the tank or scratch the tank on the top engine stabilizer. I put a piece of wood between the backbone and tank also to give more room. If you can't get the wires out by just removing the rubber grommets, there's a plastic cover under the backbone in front of the front head that you can remove to get to the harness. Try to pull the wires through the bars dry if you can because it's cleaner. If it needs help then try putting some baby powder on the wires. Leave the levers on the perches, no need to remove those. Loctite the riser and clamp bolts and you should be good to go. And yea your plugs should fit through the bars. I always cover the wires in a mesh like loom to protect them. I run it all the way to the plug. You might not have to add loom since your not extending the wires. Good luck man I'll be lookin for pics
Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 153
Likes: 2
From: S. FL
Robby,
Just a few things off the top of my head. Be careful of the front brake light switch when you separate the right switch housing from the master cylinder the little plunger that contacts the brake lever can break . Also make sure the wires are clear of the switch housings and clamping areas(pinched wires=blown fuses). Handle bar clamp bolts, don't over torque them, you'll either strip the threads or break the clamp. There is a procedure in the SM for the torque pattern. Watch for the little block and look to see if the e-clip is seated from the throttle lock.
Take your time, you got this.
Just a few things off the top of my head. Be careful of the front brake light switch when you separate the right switch housing from the master cylinder the little plunger that contacts the brake lever can break . Also make sure the wires are clear of the switch housings and clamping areas(pinched wires=blown fuses). Handle bar clamp bolts, don't over torque them, you'll either strip the threads or break the clamp. There is a procedure in the SM for the torque pattern. Watch for the little block and look to see if the e-clip is seated from the throttle lock.
Take your time, you got this.
Thread Starter
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 3,410
Likes: 143
From: Palm Desert,CA
Thanks guys will do! My new bars are one piece so I figure for torque specs I'll follow the manual specs on riser.
I've heard about the plunger for brake light and will be careful same for throttle cable ferrules
I'm confident and excited. Looked at the bars superimposed with stock this morning. Nice but I think I could have gone with the 10 inch vs 8 inch. Still these look like they should be positioned a little better for my reach
I've heard about the plunger for brake light and will be careful same for throttle cable ferrules
I'm confident and excited. Looked at the bars superimposed with stock this morning. Nice but I think I could have gone with the 10 inch vs 8 inch. Still these look like they should be positioned a little better for my reach
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