Cam ?'s
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,099
Likes: 7,625
From: Poolville
no worries...
If your just doing the cam and nothing else don't worry about lifters, tapets and lifters are the same thing. (they ride on the cam lobes to lift the pushrods to open the valves via rocker arms)
Yes a bolt in is nothing else required and along with that your stock lifters should be fine as long they're not high miles.
A better air cleaner with more flow is recommended and a map....
The clutch spring or diaphram should be upgraded when upgrading the power to 100 lbs of torque to prevent slippage.
Yes a bolt in is nothing else required and along with that your stock lifters should be fine as long they're not high miles.
A better air cleaner with more flow is recommended and a map....
The clutch spring or diaphram should be upgraded when upgrading the power to 100 lbs of torque to prevent slippage.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 3,410
Likes: 143
From: Palm Desert,CA
The "while you're in there" bug hits pretty hard when doing a cam swap but as mentioned if doing a bolt in cam you could keep stock lifters (tappets). Lots and lots of people do just fine even though you can find plenty of threads that would make you think that they will fail any minute 
. I did replace mine just because.
If you are sure that the base circle of your new cam is same as stock then you can keep your pushrods as well. I checked with Andrews and with the 57's there is an ever so slight difference from stock,could use the stock rod. BUT, if there is a slight difference then valve train could be noisier and with adjustable rods you can do exactly that, get them adjusted to suit. Also if using stock rods you will be removing tank and rocker covers to access the rods from above, no big deal apparently but will add some time to your install. Lastly, if going in from the top you will spend a little more on gasket changes (still less than new push rods though), as an example the Harley top end gasket kit is around $90, aftermarket ones in the mid $50's. I bought S&S quickee rods for $145 plus the fewer gaskets I needed when going that route, maybe $20 including cam chest, lifter covers (which you would not need if keeping stock lifters and going with quickee's), and exhaust headers.
Ultimately up to you, just make sure your choice of cam doesn't require a new rod and then decide what suits you best.
. I did replace mine just because.If you are sure that the base circle of your new cam is same as stock then you can keep your pushrods as well. I checked with Andrews and with the 57's there is an ever so slight difference from stock,could use the stock rod. BUT, if there is a slight difference then valve train could be noisier and with adjustable rods you can do exactly that, get them adjusted to suit. Also if using stock rods you will be removing tank and rocker covers to access the rods from above, no big deal apparently but will add some time to your install. Lastly, if going in from the top you will spend a little more on gasket changes (still less than new push rods though), as an example the Harley top end gasket kit is around $90, aftermarket ones in the mid $50's. I bought S&S quickee rods for $145 plus the fewer gaskets I needed when going that route, maybe $20 including cam chest, lifter covers (which you would not need if keeping stock lifters and going with quickee's), and exhaust headers.
Ultimately up to you, just make sure your choice of cam doesn't require a new rod and then decide what suits you best.
Thread Starter
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,684
Likes: 4,294
From: Northeast, NJ
If your just doing the cam and nothing else don't worry about lifters, tapets and lifters are the same thing. (they ride on the cam lobes to lift the pushrods to open the valves via rocker arms)
Yes a bolt in is nothing else required and along with that your stock lifters should be fine as long they're not high miles.
A better air cleaner with more flow is recommended and a map....
The clutch spring or diaphram should be upgraded when upgrading the power to 100 lbs of torque to prevent slippage.
Yes a bolt in is nothing else required and along with that your stock lifters should be fine as long they're not high miles.
A better air cleaner with more flow is recommended and a map....
The clutch spring or diaphram should be upgraded when upgrading the power to 100 lbs of torque to prevent slippage.
I've got just over 5k miles on my bike. I'm assuming lifters aren't needed? What is the theoretical advantage to aftermarket lifters? Is there some noticeable performance gain, or is this more for reliability?
In looking at the SE204 cams, most dyno's I've seen put HP at 90-95 and Torque just north of 100ft/lbs. Similar type cams provide dyno's that are, well, similar. In your clutch comment, would you recommend going with the upgraded clutch spring? I understand doing so makes the clutch pull heavier. Any work arounds on the heavier pull?
Thanks!
Thread Starter
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,684
Likes: 4,294
From: Northeast, NJ
The "while you're in there" bug hits pretty hard when doing a cam swap but as mentioned if doing a bolt in cam you could keep stock lifters (tappets). Lots and lots of people do just fine even though you can find plenty of threads that would make you think that they will fail any minute . I did replace mine just because.
If you are sure that the base circle of your new cam is same as stock then you can keep your pushrods as well. I checked with Andrews and with the 57's there is an ever so slight difference from stock,could use the stock rod. BUT, if there is a slight difference then valve train could be noisier and with adjustable rods you can do exactly that, get them adjusted to suit. Also if using stock rods you will be removing tank and rocker covers to access the rods from above, no big deal apparently but will add some time to your install. Lastly, if going in from the top you will spend a little more on gasket changes (still less than new push rods though), as an example the Harley top end gasket kit is around $90, aftermarket ones in the mid $50's. I bought S&S quickee rods for $145 plus the fewer gaskets I needed when going that route, maybe $20 including cam chest, lifter covers (which you would not need if keeping stock lifters and going with quickee's), and exhaust headers.
Ultimately up to you, just make sure your choice of cam doesn't require a new rod and then decide what suits you best.
. I did replace mine just because.If you are sure that the base circle of your new cam is same as stock then you can keep your pushrods as well. I checked with Andrews and with the 57's there is an ever so slight difference from stock,could use the stock rod. BUT, if there is a slight difference then valve train could be noisier and with adjustable rods you can do exactly that, get them adjusted to suit. Also if using stock rods you will be removing tank and rocker covers to access the rods from above, no big deal apparently but will add some time to your install. Lastly, if going in from the top you will spend a little more on gasket changes (still less than new push rods though), as an example the Harley top end gasket kit is around $90, aftermarket ones in the mid $50's. I bought S&S quickee rods for $145 plus the fewer gaskets I needed when going that route, maybe $20 including cam chest, lifter covers (which you would not need if keeping stock lifters and going with quickee's), and exhaust headers.
Ultimately up to you, just make sure your choice of cam doesn't require a new rod and then decide what suits you best.
The "while you were in there bug".....I like that! Yeah, I could easily see that happening.
Unless otherwise recommended, I'd be doing the cam swap and using adjustable pushrods. I'm big on the easy factor (with reliability/durability), and going this route seems easiest.
I noticed in your sig, you're running the V&H FP3, as am I. Were there any issues using this tuner when you changed cams?
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 3,410
Likes: 143
From: Palm Desert,CA
Great info. Thank you!
The "while you were in there bug".....I like that! Yeah, I could easily see that happening.
Unless otherwise recommended, I'd be doing the cam swap and using adjustable pushrods. I'm big on the easy factor (with reliability/durability), and going this route seems easiest.
I noticed in your sig, you're running the V&H FP3, as am I. Were there any issues using this tuner when you changed cams?
The "while you were in there bug".....I like that! Yeah, I could easily see that happening.
Unless otherwise recommended, I'd be doing the cam swap and using adjustable pushrods. I'm big on the easy factor (with reliability/durability), and going this route seems easiest.
I noticed in your sig, you're running the V&H FP3, as am I. Were there any issues using this tuner when you changed cams?
FP3, they will build you a map for your new cams. Go into the support mode of your app and email them, they have been working on a list of popular cams but in my case I supplied the specs. Once we worked on a challenge (that I created) the new map worked flawlessly, all this easily done in a few minutes. Once they create the map they will let you know, you turn on your bike and FP3, download and flash that easy. You can auto tune afterwards if you like, they recommended to me that I run a full tank first and frankly my bike runs better with this map than my last one.
You'll be happy I'm sure.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 3,410
Likes: 143
From: Palm Desert,CA
Forgot to mention, I found best prices on bearings via Amazon and the. Heartland Tool bearing puller/installer is awesome and can often be found here in the classifieds or purchase for around $100, then you can sell it after.
Thread Starter
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,684
Likes: 4,294
From: Northeast, NJ
On your lifter question some will say reliability I'm sure keeping stock is fine. FYI on pushrods, not all of them allow you to install with your lifter covers in place (saving you from gaskets since you're not replacing the lifters). the S&S Quickee's can be installed with them on easily. Phat performance had the best price that I found.
FP3, they will build you a map for your new cams. Go into the support mode of your app and email them, they have been working on a list of popular cams but in my case I supplied the specs. Once we worked on a challenge (that I created) the new map worked flawlessly, all this easily done in a few minutes. Once they create the map they will let you know, you turn on your bike and FP3, download and flash that easy. You can auto tune afterwards if you like, they recommended to me that I run a full tank first and frankly my bike runs better with this map than my last one.
You'll be happy I'm sure.
FP3, they will build you a map for your new cams. Go into the support mode of your app and email them, they have been working on a list of popular cams but in my case I supplied the specs. Once we worked on a challenge (that I created) the new map worked flawlessly, all this easily done in a few minutes. Once they create the map they will let you know, you turn on your bike and FP3, download and flash that easy. You can auto tune afterwards if you like, they recommended to me that I run a full tank first and frankly my bike runs better with this map than my last one.
You'll be happy I'm sure.
In looking at the specs on your bike, my plan is to go a similar route. I'm running Racetech Gold valves and springs in the front, have a set of 13" Hagon Nitros on order, stage 1 and...cams. Did you use lifters, clutch upgrades, etc.? I believe the power ratings and curve are similar to the SE204 (more power throughout with power peaking higher in the rev range…roughly 90+ hp/105+ ft/lbs). Are you happy with the characteristics of the Andrews 57H? Were you considering other cam choices also?
Sorry for all the questions...
Last edited by rauchman; Feb 10, 2015 at 08:43 PM.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 3,410
Likes: 143
From: Palm Desert,CA
Thank you!!! Great info!!! When I had originally gotten the FP3 (last spring), my understanding was that it wouldn't work correctly with different cams. Very glad to read your experience here.
In looking at the specs on your bike, my plan is to go a similar route. I'm running Racetech Gold valves and springs in the front, have a set of 13" Hagon Nitros on order, stage 1 and...cams. Did you use lifters, clutch upgrades, etc.? I believe the power ratings and curve are similar to the SE204 (more power throughout with power peaking higher in the rev range…roughly 90+ hp/105+ ft/lbs). Are you happy with the characteristics of the Andrews 57H? Were you considering other cam choices also?
Sorry for all the questions...
In looking at the specs on your bike, my plan is to go a similar route. I'm running Racetech Gold valves and springs in the front, have a set of 13" Hagon Nitros on order, stage 1 and...cams. Did you use lifters, clutch upgrades, etc.? I believe the power ratings and curve are similar to the SE204 (more power throughout with power peaking higher in the rev range…roughly 90+ hp/105+ ft/lbs). Are you happy with the characteristics of the Andrews 57H? Were you considering other cam choices also?
Sorry for all the questions...
I also changed out the clutch spring, jmummery (another forum member) did not and he has had no problems. For me I wanted to just get it done and for $35 figured why not. fWIW, I did not replace the primary gasket, it was just fine. The pull is a little harder and I have pretty small hands but it hasn't bothered me yet, it's not that much stiffer.
For my style of riding I asked around about the cams and there was a lot of consensus that for a stock 103 that the 57 would suit me well. I also thought of the S&S mr103 and others. I never really looked at the 204 for no other reason that in the catalog the curve didn't look as strong as some people's 57's. Truth be told I'd have probably been just as happy with them since I have no basis for comparison other than stock. But I got a good price on the 57's and I have to say based on my first couple of rides that they are pretty freaking awesome!
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: bklyn,ny
The biggest problem with the Dyna is it's geared too high. Look at an Evo Industries 49 tooth clutch basket or a Baker 30 tooth pulley. Lowered gearing along with even the mildest of cams will really make your bike a lot more fun to ride.
Tourer
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: West Coast
Thanks