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I needed to remove 0.25" of the raised portion around the neck on the upper tree. That took it down to about even with the rest of the tree. I had a machine shop mill it down. I either paid $30 or $45 I think.
Sounds like you had most of the measurements already figured out, just don't forget to install a Dyna dust seal rather that the softail dust seal on the lower tree. I learned the hard way!
I needed to remove 0.25" of the raised portion around the neck on the upper tree. That took it down to about even with the rest of the tree. I had a machine shop mill it down. I either paid $30 or $45 I think.
Sounds like you had most of the measurements already figured out, just don't forget to install a Dyna dust seal rather that the softail dust seal on the lower tree. I learned the hard way!
Thanks again. There's a half dozen machine shops near where I work, so I'll be doing that in Monday. Hopefully start wheel building this week too.
The top tree and the lower tree need to be the same distance from each other as they were on the Heritage, otherwise the tins/lights etc will not fit.
-grind off the stop that is on the bottom of the neck in the front. You will not need it anymore.
-remove the bearing off the lower tree. You will need to destroy it to do it. The reason you need to do this is because the dust cap under the bearing will not fit into the bottom of the Dyna neck. Install a flat washer (don't remember size but 1/32" should work) your Dyna dust cap and bearing (same as the one you just removed).
-the top of the Dyna neck will have a raised portion for about half the circumference of the neck. This needs to be ground down even with the lowest part of the top of the neck.
-The upper tree will need to have 1/4" of the center ground flat with the rest of the underside of it.
That should get the distance correct for the upper and lower tree. As you stated earlier, grinding while install will help determine how much to take off.
OK, so I'm done with all the machining and grinding and ready to put it all together. I've already destroyed the old bearing, and haven't got it off yet. Any suggestions? How did you do it.
Supposed to slide off when enough heat is applied. That has never worked for me. Hammer and chisel worked for me.
Feel free to join the FL-Dyna Interest Group. More than just me giving out advise over there and we love it when new folks are interested in FL-Dynas.
Thanks. I had already broken off the cage and removed the bearings. Then I ended up using a dremel cut-off wheel to get the rest of it off. I just touched up where I did the grinding, and when that dries it's going into the freezer over night to help with the bearing installation tomorrow.
I had joined the FL-Dyna interest group some time ago. I may be able to do an engine rebuild, but I know I'm a computer idiot. As far as the interest group, I guess I just don't get it. All I can see is one thread with 1,800 replies. Do I just ask questions on that?
Sorry to seem like a moron, and thanks again for your help.
Just ask away. One or more us will pipe in and usually will have seen what you want to know. Before long, you will the one answering the questions.
I too froze my tree, but also got a short piece of 1 inch (I think it was) iron pipe from the hardware store. It drove the bearing down perfectly without getting anywhere near the bearing cage.
Just ask away. One or more us will pipe in and usually will have seen what you want to know. Before long, you will the one answering the questions.
I too froze my tree, but also got a short piece of 1 inch (I think it was) iron pipe from the hardware store. It drove the bearing down perfectly without getting anywhere near the bearing cage.
Good to know about the pipe. I'll pick one up in the AM.
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