The belt to chain drive conversion thread
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 716
Likes: 24
Interesting read:
http://bungkingextras.com/2013/01/22...unt-sprockets/
Big Boyz calculator:
http://bigboyzcycles.com/Gearratio.htm
^^
http://bungkingextras.com/2013/01/22...unt-sprockets/
Big Boyz calculator:
http://bigboyzcycles.com/Gearratio.htm
^^
Aside from the fact that you were specifically asked NOT to do what you did, I'll provide some truth to your opinions:
1. Modern O- and X-ring chains go about 1,000 miles between lubrication.
2. What ****ing year is it? Yep, 2015. Chain technology has come a long way.
3. Again, 2015. Modern lubes when applied to a hot chain make for minimal splatter.
4. WHAT????? Once the chain heats up and stretches, you check adjustment again. Then set it and forget it. You check your tightness by pushing the chain every 1,000 miles. Takes 4.3 seconds.
5. I cannot hear my chain with a full face on, much less with no helmet. In fact, the valvetrain is louder than the chain.
6. WRONG. Completely and utterly wrong.
1. Modern O- and X-ring chains go about 1,000 miles between lubrication.
2. What ****ing year is it? Yep, 2015. Chain technology has come a long way.
3. Again, 2015. Modern lubes when applied to a hot chain make for minimal splatter.
4. WHAT????? Once the chain heats up and stretches, you check adjustment again. Then set it and forget it. You check your tightness by pushing the chain every 1,000 miles. Takes 4.3 seconds.
5. I cannot hear my chain with a full face on, much less with no helmet. In fact, the valvetrain is louder than the chain.
6. WRONG. Completely and utterly wrong.
I've lived for many years with bikes that have chains. Here's a counterpoint argument, some reasons not to install a chain....
1) You don't feel like having to put your bike on a lift and lube the chain every second fill up.
2) You don't feel like having to clean the chain with a brush and kerosene once a month.
3) You don't want grease and oil fling off continuously splattering on your rear rim and swing arm from the chain and sprockets.
4) Having to frequently adjust chain slack and rear wheel alignment sucks.
5) You enjoy the added quiet a rubber belt provides compared to the sounds a chain makes
6) A chain requires a cush hub, large rubber dampers contained in the rear wheel hub. These isolate the rear chain sprocket from the rear wheel and prevent chain lash and roughness in the drivetrain.
1) You don't feel like having to put your bike on a lift and lube the chain every second fill up.
2) You don't feel like having to clean the chain with a brush and kerosene once a month.
3) You don't want grease and oil fling off continuously splattering on your rear rim and swing arm from the chain and sprockets.
4) Having to frequently adjust chain slack and rear wheel alignment sucks.
5) You enjoy the added quiet a rubber belt provides compared to the sounds a chain makes
6) A chain requires a cush hub, large rubber dampers contained in the rear wheel hub. These isolate the rear chain sprocket from the rear wheel and prevent chain lash and roughness in the drivetrain.
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,953
Likes: 1,168
From: Northern Colorado
Lol, there's ALWAYS one guy who HAS to be a buzz kill. And Lama..WTF, no FXR info? Come on maaaannn. Not like I'll ever get around to doing that anyways. But like others have said, your threads have a way of exploding so it's good to get in on the ground floor.
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,718
Likes: 15
From: Bay area, CA
I've been browsing through PBI's website, I'd like to just put a kit together myself instead of maybe paying a little more for a kit plus I haven't seen a kit with the final ratio I want. I would like to stay as close to factory hearing as possible 2.06?? Dynamic dynas kits won't let you choose a 24 or 25t front sprocket with 06- later dynas, anyone know why? If I went with 25/52t sprockets I would be pretty close.
As I look through PBI's site the sprockets are listed for sporsters and buell but there's different center hole sizes so I'm assuming the right center hole size should fit my 08 Dyna right? Is the center hole I want 2.214? If I went through PBI it looks like I'll need a .500" offset front sprocket and a .500" spacer for the rear sprocket correct? And all this for a 530 EK chain?
As I look through PBI's site the sprockets are listed for sporsters and buell but there's different center hole sizes so I'm assuming the right center hole size should fit my 08 Dyna right? Is the center hole I want 2.214? If I went through PBI it looks like I'll need a .500" offset front sprocket and a .500" spacer for the rear sprocket correct? And all this for a 530 EK chain?
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 716
Likes: 24
I've been browsing through PBI's website, I'd like to just put a kit together myself instead of maybe paying a little more for a kit plus I haven't seen a kit with the final ratio I want. I would like to stay as close to factory hearing as possible 2.06?? Dynamic dynas kits won't let you choose a 24 or 25t front sprocket with 06- later dynas, anyone know why? If I went with 25/52t sprockets I would be pretty close.
As I look through PBI's site the sprockets are listed for sporsters and buell but there's different center hole sizes so I'm assuming the right center hole size should fit my 08 Dyna right? Is the center hole I want 2.214? If I went through PBI it looks like I'll need a .500" offset front sprocket and a .500" spacer for the rear sprocket correct? And all this for a 530 EK chain?
As I look through PBI's site the sprockets are listed for sporsters and buell but there's different center hole sizes so I'm assuming the right center hole size should fit my 08 Dyna right? Is the center hole I want 2.214? If I went through PBI it looks like I'll need a .500" offset front sprocket and a .500" spacer for the rear sprocket correct? And all this for a 530 EK chain?
If you have a 2007 + bike you should have a 32/66 pulley setup which equals 2.063.
If you go 24/51 you will get 2.125. This will allow you the cheapest rear sprocket alternative, the Drag Specialties conversion sprocket. This has the 2.214 center bore. This is pretty close to the stock ratio.
25/51 will get you 2.040, a bit less than stock.
24/52 will get you 2.080. You can do so but again you are now buying a PBI sprocket.
The STEEL PBI 2073S (dual hole bore) or 2073SX series FLAT rear sprockets with a 2.214 centering hole is correct for 2000+ year Dyna's.
The aluminum PBI 2073 series rear FLAT sprockets when specified with a 2.214 centering hole is correct for 2000+ year Dyna's.
.500 offset front PBI sprocket seems to be the most desirable offset front sprocket for the 06+ Dyna conversions as you noted.
P/n 303-24, 303-25 and 303-26 are the 6-speed part numbers .500 offset
Assuming you choose your individual parts, do us a favor...add them all up, with shipping from those different sources..... and let us know if you have come up with a cheaper alternative to a kit as offered by the various vendors. This is discovery I am working on also at present.
Lama
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Last edited by Lama; May 7, 2015 at 02:06 AM.
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Road Warrior
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,718
Likes: 15
From: Bay area, CA
I'll do that. I may end up going with the bung king spoked rear sprocket vs a sprocket with round holes. They also have the rear sprocket spacers. Any idea what length chain? Preference between oring chain and x ring or whatever it's called?
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 716
Likes: 24
Something to think about: Do you plan on trying to retain your upper and lower belt (chain ? ) guard(s)? If so you will need to measure if the new setup will allow them....however this is some information from Bung King, via email:
"In just about all of the installs we have done on the 06 and up dynas with a .5oo total offset front sprocket you would need a .500 thick rear spacer with our sprocket. The outer dia of the sprocket in a 52 tooth would be 11" you could measure your pulley to make sure but it should be able to work with the stock chain guard. The 55 tooth would be approx 11.5" in dia."
The stock +07 up rear pulley is 12" dia.
As far as X ring vs. O ring, pick your choice and brand. I would look at tensile strength primarily, a good start is at 9500+. If you live in a corrosive area of course do not purchase a raw chain, get a coated (plated/colored) chain.
All considerations...is getting a Bung King complete kit not more economical?
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Last edited by Lama; May 8, 2015 at 11:03 PM.