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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
I wonder if any of you fine people can help shed a little light on my 2011 Fat Bob, which was bought used from a HD dealer.
The bike is in great condition and came with a set of V&H slip on mufflers. My understanding with these mufflers is that it doesn't need a fuel pack, etc... and the air box is standard; however the rear O2 sensor has been disconnected (the sensor is in place but there is no cable running to it). The bike runs well, although there is some popping on decel, which doesn't seem uncommon and there is no error on the display at all - which I would expect?
Not normal, but not an emergency. I would try to hook up the sensor again because it will help with how the bike runs at cruise power settings.
I personally detest decel pop but others don't mind... With slip ons and no upgrade to your ac, then yes you do not have to get a fuel tuner.....but if you can afford it, go get a Stage 1 ac that suits your eye and a nice fuel tuner and enjoy the added performance and a better running bike. Highly recommend the Power Vision fuel tuner and if you buy it from Fuel Moto they will provide a preloaded map for your particular set up and they have great customer care.
Thanks for the response, yes I am looking into the stage 1 - that's what drew my eye to the disconnected sensor. Just out of interest, is there a specific place that the fuel pack is placed or is it a case of just finding a space for it?
Thanks for the response, yes I am looking into the stage 1 - that's what drew my eye to the disconnected sensor. Just out of interest, is there a specific place that the fuel pack is placed or is it a case of just finding a space for it?
When I bought my '11 Street Bob it came same set up- just mufflers. I don't mind the stock airbox, so I got a K&N filter from amazon and then called Fuelmoto. Told them my set-up, and got the Power Vision ordered. It's not something that has to stay on the bike, you flash the ecm through the diagnostic port and unplug it. That's what sold it for me- no need to worry about where it has to go. If you want to datalog or use it for RPM/gear indicator/engine temp display you can take the time to route the wiring. (I am thinking about this but haven't taken the plunge to do it yet)
Oh, and you won't be able to wipe the grin off your face, the difference in throttle response once you put the air filter in and whatever tuner you choose to go with...
Thanks for the response, yes I am looking into the stage 1 - that's what drew my eye to the disconnected sensor. Just out of interest, is there a specific place that the fuel pack is placed or is it a case of just finding a space for it?
Normally you put "piggyback" type of tuners underneath the seat.
If your really strapped for cash and cant go the Moto or FP3 route, you might want to consider the setup from Night Rider. I had his setup on my 14 Fat Bob before I bought the V&H FP3. The Night Rider is an inexpensive way to adjust your Air/Fuel ratio. Check the For Sale section of the forum, you will see a set for your bike for sale.
I just got new Straight Shots and Stage 1 intake. Popped like hell so I picked up a Power Vision (not from Fuelmoto - the Amazon price was just too good). Anyway, I set up the preloaded SE intake and Big Shots (seemed pretty close). Ran good, but still some popping. Performed the auto-tune and now it runs very good and just a little, "gurgle" now on decel.
Question, If I keep running auto-tune over auto-tune do you folks think it will just keep improving until the gurgle is gone or should I just stop here?
I just got new Straight Shots and Stage 1 intake. Popped like hell so I picked up a Power Vision (not from Fuelmoto - the Amazon price was just too good). Anyway, I set up the preloaded SE intake and Big Shots (seemed pretty close). Ran good, but still some popping. Performed the auto-tune and now it runs very good and just a little, "gurgle" now on decel.
Question, If I keep running auto-tune over auto-tune do you folks think it will just keep improving until the gurgle is gone or should I just stop here?
I doubt it. Probably need to manually adjust your 20 MAP AFR column, decel enrichment table, and/or spark tables. Been awhile since I have tweaked these areas because I am now dyno tuned but you might get some more specific help over in the PV "sticky" thread.
Check if there is something plugged in to the wires that normally plug into your disconnected O2 sensor. I had a FuelMoto Micro Tuner on my Sportster that plugged into the wire feed to the O2. I took out the O2s and put plugs in the pipe. It did the trick.
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