Wanted to get some feedback on here. From those that know already I have had a few issues with my switchback since I purchased it brand new. Have had the Oil pump replaced. Had a bad lifter that was replaced that took forever for them to acknowledge that it was just me wondering why I had a excessive chatter coming from the engine. Then after all this has been replaced and oil changed with Full Syn3 oil I still feel as if its not running 100%.

I did my 10k oil change early at 9500 miles because I was going to go on a 1000 mile ride soon. So after the oil change at 9500 I did a small trip out of town (600 miles). Things seemed fine. Right before I left for my trip 2 weeks ago at 10,400 miles I checked the oil...I was a quart low. Not wanting to deal with it I just went and bought a quart of oil and added it to the bike. Chatter gone. But I knew this would only be temporary. Now after my trip I'm at almost 12,000 miles on the bike and the chatter is back. Im just at the line where it says I should add a quart. The harley dealership here sucks bad, and I'm all about supporting your local harley shop, but they do NOT seem to want to help me with this issue.

Should I try a different oil? Could it be that I have an improper tune on the bike? Im at a loss on what to do...other than go buy new lifters, pushrods and cams or something. haha.


Im thinking of just emailing corporate and see if I get a response.
Any feedback would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

using a different oil will not make a difference. what you need is to find out where the oil is going. If it is burning off then harley owes you a repair. They will need to take a reference however, oil burning is acceptable to certain limits, and a quart in 2500 miles is not extremely high althiough it does suggest a problem. If your local harley place won't take care of it then find one who will, some of those dealers can be real dicks, as long as it's less than 2 years old..... your covered.
Your bad lifter may have caused damage to the rocker arms or valves themselfs.
I am sorry to hear about your troubles, my 2008 had all manner of glitches at first and there's still stuff going on with it, I called corporate and asked them to just take this lemmon back and replace it but nope they were'nt having any of that.
So I love her and sometimes hate her.

 

The oil is going somewhere, either leaking out or burning off through the intake.

Checking and Adding oil:
The oil level cannot be accurately checked on a cold engine. Also, always check the oil when the bike is leaning on the jiffy stand. The dipstick also should be cleaned and tightened each time you you insert it back into the engine.

Cold Oil Check:
Oil should register between the two arrows. Never fill the oil past the halfway mark when the engine is cold.

Hot Oil Check:
Ride the motorcycle until the engine reaches normal operating temperature. Then let the engine Idle for 2 minutes and then turn the engine off. Oil should register at the FULL mark. Never fill the oil past the FULL mark when the engine is hot.

Also, talk to the dealer and find out exactly what brand, type, and viscosity the oil they put in your engine is. Then only top off with that same oil. Once you're sure you are checking the oil properly and using the right oil to top off I would check for leaks first. Then check the inside of your air cleaner for excessive amounts of oil.

Good Luck!

 

The oil can and should be checked while the engine is cold, I suppose either are argumentable these days. Why should he run it for two minutes at idle, I don't see a point there, the oil will leak down to the pan in 30 seconds regardless
The rest of your info is right on,
except if a guy is stuck he can top off with any oil as long as the viscosity is right. EX; don't be throwing 5 w 30 in there! but some oil is always better than no oil!
The dealer, well you know they all stick to HD moco oil and insist it is the
best.
If it was leaking on the ground that would be obvious but it is also possible it's leaking into the primary.
My air cleaner gets blow by all the time but I use up half a quart in 3000 miles.
once again get it to a dealer to fix it for you, if your local guy isn't helping call another (remember to always be calm and professional with them , it just leads to inflamed dick-headitis!)

And it sounds to me like the first thing you need is a shop manual

 

I was just quoting the Dyna Models Owners Manual from 2011. The cold engine warning is under a NOTICE header and in bold print.

 

scare tactics maybe, but I run heavy machinery and those old cats, you couldn't get the oil filler cap off without hazard. It's just the way I? learned. Harley told me the same thing as you heard, then the HD tech said to me " ahh that's shytbull!"

Heheee and leibherr machinery has the foolproof three positions drawn beside the oil check glass... full cold, full hot or full stick laid out.
like I meant to say was it's debateable but the only wrong way is to leave it empty!
It's all good enodrango. Hell I ain't no professor!!! It's an opinion board that's all.

 

Thanks for the responses everyone. Ya, I have a family friend that I take my bike to and do all the maintenance at his place. He has the lift, tools and the knowledge and even he agrees it needs to be looked to. He does a majority of all my buddies work on their bikes. Said the sound isn't right, even after my dealership "fixed" it.

Here is a video clip of the engine chatter.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zW91...ature=youtu.be

 

No that is not normal! If your dealer won't solve this take it to another dealer that will!

 

Where are you getting that idea?
RTFM.

 

Hi Mad, This is only to address this question. The reason the Twin Cams should be run on the jiffy stand for at least a minute before checking the oil is because of the way the oil is scavenged from the bottom of the crankcase. The Twin Cam is a dry sump - the pan is in the bottom of the transmission, not the engine. When the bike is run on the jiffy stand, and everything is operating properly a known quantity is left in the engine, and the the rest (except for cling and whatever normally puddles in components and compartments like the floor of the cam chest) is returned to the oil tank.

Using Touring bikes as an example, many owners mistakenly add 4 quarts at an oil change and don't realize that they have oil in the engine separate from the tank. The engine then experiences heavier than normal carryover out the breathers until it gets to a level the engine "likes" Then the owners think it's using oil and top it off again and the cycle repeats. If the bike has 3.5 in after an oil change hot and it's not at the full line - don't add to the full line. This applies to the other bikes that have a lesser oil capacity - add 1/2 quart less at a wet oil change.

A great method to know where your bike is normally is to change the oil and filter, add the 3.5 quarts, let it run on the jiffy stand for a minute or two, let it settle then mark the stick. You'll find it will most likely be just in the area of half way between the lines. Then you have a known good full cold mark on the stick. Only 3.5 quarts should be added at an oil and filter change on a wet engine.

Also, for several years, the dipsticks weren't the most accurate and you might even have had one that read nearly at the bottom line when all was good.

I know I went on a little long, but on so many motorcycles, it's really important to follow the manufacturers instructions. Many times letting them run in a certain position is due to the internal cavities and scavenging.

Also I just watched that video - that chatter is not normal. From what I can hear on the computer speakers, sounds to me like a mis-adjusted pushrod (if it has adjustables) or a failing lifter.

To the OP's original question, If the bike is improperly tuned it can contribute to oil consumption through excessive heat or even dilution.