I hate reading i should have paid more attention. Im A fool. i had an issue with my old rotor and swapped it out for the old one today......when i went to torque the screws i used the torque value i found in the manuel....well i accidently used the rear disk torque vaule 45 ft lbs when the front torque value is 24 ft lbs. It felt as tho the threads started stripping in one of the threads in the wheel


I hope i didnt **** up. Im not taking the disk off for fear the threads of the wheel will come out with the screw

Im so pissed

 

been there done that long ago... in my experience the head popped off the bolt and I was able to get ahold of the stub and pull it out. go ahead and try and back the bolt out, you may get lucky and it comes out. id heat it up a little to soften the loctite though.

 

the threads should be okay, remove and replace with new bolts just incase they have been weakened.. run a tap down the thread if you want.

 

As long as you torqued them up in a star pattern like wheel lug nuts I think you will be fine.

Am I right that I noticed in the procedure it mentions a max of 45 ft/lbs on the rear but the values in the critical fasteners list it says a max of 35 or if Allen's, 27...??

I'll have to check my manual for interest...

My critical fastener list just says 24 front and 45 rear..

 

Worst case, just put a heli-coil in it. Just as strong, if not stronger than the original threads.

 

DO NOT RUN A TAP INTO THE BOLT HOLES ... If you must, use a THREAD CHASER .... A tap will remove more material and further complicate things.

 

Just wanted to share my latest wrenching episode on my 1998 Road Glide.

I removed the rear wheel and brake disc to facilitate new tire installation.

I'm very methodical in my practices and don't deviate often from them. Repitition works best for me.

I greased the wheel bearings and installed new seals and tapped out the holes for the rear disc.

I do this to clean up any residue from inside the threads.

I know the manual says replace these screws every time they're removed but honestly I never do.

Upon installation of the bolts I coated the 3/8-16 fasteners with red locktight and ran them all down by hand and then incrementally tightened them to final torque of 55ft lbs.in a star pattern.

I guess I should say I "tried to" torque them to 55ft. lbs but when I tried to get them to cinch up they weren't getting tight.

So....

I decided to drill all 5 holes and Helicoil them.

As a result I'm not able too utilize locktight anymore but at least they're pulled right.

If they decide to come loose I'm going to use a different style faster like a Capscrew and drill the holes for lockwire.

Being an ex Submarine Marine Machinery Mechanic Im pretty good at lock wiring things. I just hope they don't work their way out.

I must also convey that this was discovered on a used bike so yeah fun stuff...

Kenny Wise

 

After reading the page with the Critical Fastners and specificially the Brakes section. The Brake disc screws for the F = 16-24 ft-lbs and the R = 30-35 ft-lbs; and if Allen head, = 23-27 ft-lbs.