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Changing fork oil

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Old Jun 20, 2015 | 10:15 AM
  #11  
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You mean the newer bikes aren't coming with drain screws at the bottom of the fork lowers??
 
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Old Jun 20, 2015 | 10:45 AM
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I'd imagine that they still do. Don't forget to replace the little brass/copper(?) crush washers either. Although they may look reusable, they aren't and you will have a leak. They are really cheap too especially compared to doing a leg again with fork oil at $13/qt
 
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Old Jun 20, 2015 | 12:40 PM
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Lots of good advice here. Replace the copper crush washers and seals, check.

Next question, I don't have a vice at home, will that make my life harder or just annoying? Also, I don't have a fork seal driver, but was thinking about fashioning one....should I just pony up the dough and buy or can one me made?
 
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Old Jun 20, 2015 | 01:03 PM
  #14  
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Folks fashion homemade fork seal drivers out of PVC pipe.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2015 | 02:27 PM
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To remove the forks the bike has to be supported somehow. I'm guessing everyone has the bike jacked up, is there any concern with weight balance after you've removed the wheel, forks etc? Just wondering what the lift point is on the bike?
 
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Old Jun 20, 2015 | 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Gadgetech
To remove the forks the bike has to be supported somehow. I'm guessing everyone has the bike jacked up, is there any concern with weight balance after you've removed the wheel, forks etc? Just wondering what the lift point is on the bike?
I would jack it up near the front of the frame. That way the rear wheel stays on the ground and you're just lifting the front enough to to get the tire off the ground. Should be stable enough to do what you have to but don't reef on it.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2015 | 03:11 PM
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I replaced the oil in my forks about 20 years ago, with Tellus oil # 46. After a few miles (since 1995) the seals are still holding with no weeping or leaks. I've never had seals last more than 100,000 miles, but these have.
 
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