To be cheap or not to be cheap
To be cheap or not to be cheap
Well turns out I thought I fixed my charging issue with it being a dirty plug from a gas leak getting into the actual plug....turns out she went back to not charging so most likely I'm leaning towards to just going ahead and getting a new stator and regulator installed AFTER I buy a new battery, although I really think it's the charging system but me gonna do this one step at a time. The real question is what to buy. I found online some stators going as cheap as $50-60 and the Accel brand going for a good $95, and for the regulators I've seen the prices as low as $35 going up to $100. Could anybody recommend what price point I should be hitting? Are the cheaper ones any different than the expensive chrome regulators? Or is it "eehhh they're all the same really"??? Any pointers would be great if anybody knows the differences between them all. Thanks
I've tested the battery and it came back good, but when this situation happened last time(on my old bike) everyone including Auto Parts people said battery was good and I got frustrated to the point that I just said "frick it" and went and bought a new battery...turns out, that was the only issue...SO it may just be the battery, but if not I'm going to need a replacement asap as this is my only vehicle so I need to have the knowledge lined up. Earlier today the battery wasn't charging and was down to 11.3 volts, 11.4 when cranked up, and not climbing in idle or high rev. I put the fool on the charger and cleaned my stator plug with wire cleaner, waited til the battery was at 12.6 volts charge(I had to go to work) and put it in the bike...cranked bike up, well now the battery was showing that it was getting a charge. Maybe it's just the plug, but if it's the plug well I can't have that happening. I need reliability and peace of mind.
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Joined: May 2012
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From: Carlsbad, CA
Not sure now what advice you want.
However, if you replace the stator & regulator, and still havectgecoribkem due to bad connections you are going to be disappointed. So, I'd suggest cleaning all the connections at the battery, and at the regulator. Then ride for a while and see if you still have a problem.
However, if you replace the stator & regulator, and still havectgecoribkem due to bad connections you are going to be disappointed. So, I'd suggest cleaning all the connections at the battery, and at the regulator. Then ride for a while and see if you still have a problem.
The only info I was seeking in the thread was trying to find out if I should just pay $25 for a regulator or get one for $60-$100, if anyone knew of the difference between the low price regulator/stators versus the high priced ones. Also why would I be disappointed if I decided to switch out the two devices in order to solve the plug problem? Wouldn't that end my horrible connection?? If so please explain, I'm open to whatever advice you can give. Thanks p.s. I forgot to mention that I had already cleaned the plugs 2 days prior to having to clean them again...first their was some type of liquid that had seeped in between rubber but today there wasn't anything that indicated it being dirty. Not to say that doesn't mean it's not there
I agree with your approach re the battery - low miles or not, if it's an older bike, and its been sitting awhile, get a new battery (and buy a good one). Yo'ull never regret it, that's for sure, and its one less thing to worry about as being the problem.
Re whether to buy the $25 part or the $100, I'd personally always buy the $100 one if it is from a more reliable/reputable company. I try to at least match the original part and, wherever possible, get something better. Accel seems to have a solid rep: more windings of finer gage, better quality wire, eqalling more power at lower revs.
Given that you've done the basic checks over the wiring etc, even if replacing the batt and regulator etc doesn't resolve your problem, you've still narrowed the possible issues. Then, when you eventually track down the real culprit, you'll have ended up with a more reliable electrical system for the longer term.
.
Re whether to buy the $25 part or the $100, I'd personally always buy the $100 one if it is from a more reliable/reputable company. I try to at least match the original part and, wherever possible, get something better. Accel seems to have a solid rep: more windings of finer gage, better quality wire, eqalling more power at lower revs.
Given that you've done the basic checks over the wiring etc, even if replacing the batt and regulator etc doesn't resolve your problem, you've still narrowed the possible issues. Then, when you eventually track down the real culprit, you'll have ended up with a more reliable electrical system for the longer term.
.
Last edited by Davdoodles; Jun 22, 2015 at 11:44 PM.
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Exactly what I came to the conclusion of...why wonder when you can just update that bike and feel confident about what's going on with it? So if it take $300 then so be it
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Yeah and I just went outside to check my bike after it's been sitting all night and without any power on it's at 12.06 volts(was at 12.6 yesterday when I put it in the bike, 12.3-4 when power switch was turned on)...when I click the power switch on it's at like 11.8 or something, when I crank it and rev the throttle it stays the same SO something is ****ed up. I haven't messed with the battery yet so right now I just cleaned the plug with wire cleaner and I'm going to see if that makes a difference with the charging or not...if it charges after the cleaning then god dang it looks like the plugs are retarded, if not...well hopefully it's the battery and I'll start with that.
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