Bike Won't Start
I'm assuming it's the battery because I don't think it's been changed in 10 years..
The only other issue that may or may not be related is that sometimes it stalls when idling but that's typically when it's just been fired up.
Advance autoparts runs online coupons...just google coupon advance auto parts.
They have the AGM battery in stock (gel battery).
Some models will need to use the supplied little gold color spacers.
Or, take the battery into any parts store or Walmart and have it tested.
I'm guessing your battery is bad.
As for stalling.
1/2 the 2005's were carbed, 1/2 were injected.
If yours is carbed, 1st, congrats, you got a great bike... 2nd, you may need to choke it longer.
A properly tuned, carbed, v-twin does not need any warm up time in the summer. Choke it, start it, leave the choke pulled out and hit the road. My choke will work its way back in gradually.
To tell if it is properly warmed up, reach down and touch the top of the head cover as you ride, if it is getting uncomfortably hot, the bike is well warmed up. If it is, reach up and make sure the choke is all the way back in. (touch the head within a couple of blocks-miles. Not after you have been on the interstate or it will then be way beyond uncomfortably hot...)
If it is injected, it is gas and go. It should not be stalling.
If the battery is totally dead (but it doesn't sound like it is) and it won't accept a charge, it could cause a stall, but that is a stretch. If it were that bad, it wouldn't restart. My guess is get a new battery and all will be good either way.
Now a note. On the 2005 super glides, the batteries Walmart and some auto parts sell can be a touch tall. When you install it, and are bolting it back in place make sure the terminals do not touch the bracket above it or you will short the battery. If you crank it all up tight, there is a good chance you will short it out. I cut an old inner tube and lay it across the top of the battery and terminals to ensure I never short it. Just a helpful hint...
Last edited by Jonesee; Aug 20, 2015 at 08:50 PM.
Take it in, have it tested, verify it is the battery and then make a decision. If it is bad, replace it and save the disposal fee or core charge.
At least give the guy some rational advice.
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Take it in, have it tested, verify it is the battery and then make a decision. If it is bad, replace it and save the disposal fee or core charge.
At least give the guy some rational advice.
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Figure out what is wrong, and fix that before you start throwing stuff away.
I've commented on here before about Harley riders throwing money at their bikes and repairs without stopping to figure it out first. It is a sign of a poor mechanic.
Like the guy that recently installed a true-track and learned later it was tire pressure like I told him.
I agree, it may be the battery, but at least test it and get the core/disposal fee. By testing it, you learn for sure it is the problem. If, by chance the battery tests good, he will need to be looking at the stator or ignition system.
Know what the problem is before you start spending money. Start cheap and then work your way deeper into your wallet.
Or hell, throw parts away and start replacing them until the bike runs. It's only money...
(I'd rather my money go to gas, oil and rubber)
.
Last edited by Jonesee; Aug 21, 2015 at 06:22 AM.






