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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
I have a 2010 FXDC 96 cu in running XIED's. This past Saturday went out for a ride and only made it 25 miles from the house. The bike shut off on me going 55 mph. I pulled over to the side of the road and started looking over the bike. Battery connections were good and tight. Ground was good. I took out and checked the main fuse and it was fine. The bike would try to turn over at first, after a bit, no clicking or anything from the starter. I tried charging the battery but still couldn't get it going. After I took the main fuse out for awhile and took the MAF sensor out and cleaned it, the bike started and ran for 15 minutes. I tried to ride it to get it home, but only made it about 100 ft before it shut down again.
This is the second battery from advanced auto. I had to return the first one with a bad cell. The second one worked for awhile, had it tested and they said it was fine. Today I took the battery back in for another test, and it reported bad battery, low cold crank amps. I bought a Harley battery this morning and put it in the bike. Bike fired right up. I checked the volts when bike was running at 2k rpm and it read 14.2V, which tells me the stator and rectifier are working properly (charging the battery).
Any ideas? Did I just have bad luck with batteries? I don't want to get caught on the side of the road again for hours.
Ride it for a while and get back with us. Id be comfortable saying bad batteries with what we have so far. FYI, the HD OEM batteries are really spectacular. The only better options are Anti Gravity and Odyssey, and I personally don't see the need for them on mostly factory bike.
I have a 2010 FXDC 96 cu in running XIED's. This past Saturday went out for a ride and only made it 25 miles from the house. The bike shut off on me going 55 mph. I pulled over to the side of the road and started looking over the bike. Battery connections were good and tight. Ground was good. I took out and checked the main fuse and it was fine. The bike would try to turn over at first, after a bit, no clicking or anything from the starter. I tried charging the battery but still couldn't get it going. After I took the main fuse out for awhile and took the MAF sensor out and cleaned it, the bike started and ran for 15 minutes. I tried to ride it to get it home, but only made it about 100 ft before it shut down again.
This is the second battery from advanced auto. I had to return the first one with a bad cell. The second one worked for awhile, had it tested and they said it was fine. Today I took the battery back in for another test, and it reported bad battery, low cold crank amps. I bought a Harley battery this morning and put it in the bike. Bike fired right up. I checked the volts when bike was running at 2k rpm and it read 14.2V, which tells me the stator and rectifier are working properly (charging the battery).
Any ideas? Did I just have bad luck with batteries? I don't want to get caught on the side of the road again for hours.
I had a very similar experience with an Interstate battery in my 06 Electra Glide. I definitely prefer the Harley battery, they seem to hold up best to the working conditions of Harley.
Hopefully the Harley battery will hold up better. The stator an everything seemed to be working. I guess ill have to get out for a ride and see what happens.
I have had the WORST luck with batteries. I've been the victim of cheap batteries countless times in my cars. Mostly because I just bought a battery at the nearest parts store without knowing any better. (Napa & Exide are complete garbage)
Nothing pisses me off more then having to buy something twice because I went cheap the first time. I don't mess around with that nonsense anymore. Buy a good battery even if it cost twice as much and be happy, not stranded.
I just replaced the oem battery in my '09 SB with a Deka (makers of the HD battery) last week. $130 well spent.
My bike was clicking when I tried to start it tonight. I took it out, it measured 12.25 volts. I know the battery is at least 4 years old, because I bought the bike in 2011. It was a 2003, with only 2000 miles, so it might even be the original. No date was punched out on the label.
According to Batteries Plus this is the replacement battery. Anybody have any experience with this battery?
Item Number: CYL10020
Brand: Duracell Ultra
Voltage: 12
Lead Acid Type: Starting
Cold Cranking Amps: 400
Battery Type: Factory Activated
Chemistry: Lead Acid
Lead Acid Design: AGM
Made in the USA: True
Product Category: Powersports
Product Sub Category: Starting Lighting And Ignition
Warranty: 24 Month Full Replace, 0 Month Pro Rated
Weight: 22.1 lbs
My bike was clicking when I tried to start it tonight. I took it out, it measured 12.25 volts. I know the battery is at least 4 years old, because I bought the bike in 2011. It was a 2003, with only 2000 miles, so it might even be the original. No date was punched out on the label.
According to Batteries Plus this is the replacement battery. Anybody have any experience with this battery?
Item Number: CYL10020
Brand: Duracell Ultra
Voltage: 12
Lead Acid Type: Starting
Cold Cranking Amps: 400
Battery Type: Factory Activated
Chemistry: Lead Acid
Lead Acid Design: AGM
Made in the USA: True
Product Category: Powersports
Product Sub Category: Starting Lighting And Ignition
Warranty: 24 Month Full Replace, 0 Month Pro Rated
Weight: 22.1 lbs
This is the same battery I installed in my Road Glide back in June. I also have a Batteries Plus battery in my Street Bob that is 2 1/2 years old with absolutely no problems so far.
I wouldn't buy another Batteries Plus battery. Got less than a year each from two in my last bike! Although the second was a warranty replacement (after complaining loudly enough about the first), getting a year out of a new battery is poor, not to mention the erratic starting issues it caused on that bike.
You said that the two el-cheapo batteries you bought from a discount auto parts store suffered the same exact failure, and the last one left your butt on the side of the road needing towed...but when you put a new OEM battery in, it fired right up...I will bet you that unless you have a yet undiscovered issue with your electrical system, the Harley battery will last for years
Do you see a connection here? I do. I know some folks here are going to poo-poo OEM vs cheap aftermarket batteries, but you have just learned that there really is a difference...and that difference could be what gets you back home or calling for a tow...
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