When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
I will make this mod as soon as funds allow it. I understand from others that the mids provide better control. However, I'm not prone to "hot-dog" around town on mine; I just like to kick back and cruise...
If the Kury kit uses the stock lever in the primary, why do you even have to change it if you use the HD kit? Anyone know? I know that it means the spines shaft will still be there, but why even open up the primary?
I'm thinking about swapping my Kury further forwards for standard (HD) forwards, but I had assumed I could just attach the linkage to the stock mid-control shift lever, just like my current set up.
When you change from Fwds to Mids or Mids to Fwds the transmission lever behind the inner primary is different so to do it right you take the inner primary off. This is not a horrible undertaking, you get to inspect the clutch, compensator, primary chain adjuster, inner primary seal/bearing, shifter shaft seal, etc. This does not take that long and is a great time to get to know your bike a little better, so enjoy the oppurtunity and do the mod like a pro!
If the Kury kit uses the stock lever in the primary, why do you even have to change it if you use the HD kit? Anyone know?
It's the geometry,
Go back and look at the photo of jricharc's bike, then the photo of mine with the Kury,, pay attention to the height(or length) of the lever of the foot shift arm on both,,
jricharc's is much longer (reaches higher),,
The length of that arm is directly related to the travel your foot needs to make to select a gear. (follow that?)
I'm pretty sure Kury made theirs that size to accommodate using the factory Mid control Transmission lever.
It 's not going to be a big deal in actual shifting, but if it's too far off it could make it a pita finding neutral
I can speak a little about this - My FXDF came with forwards and I liked them (I got the HD retractable stirrup peg which is nice). I'm 6' tall. The wife got a 15 FXDB with mids. Shes 5'7" and prefers the mids. I CANNOT stand her mids. I look like a gorilla on a moped riding hers and its uncomfortable. Plus, everytime I come to a stop I nearly hook my leg or pant leg on the mid pegs...
I did snag a set of lowrider take off "further mid controls". HD sells them too for $$$. They claim to give you an 1" or 2" forward position compared to mids. Sounded like an awesome compromise....I mounted one side and we both sat on it to compare - we couldn't tell the difference at all, so I sold them.
Depending on which kit you got, you could maybe not cut or remove the old shaft right away and test ride it a bit to make sure you like the forwards. (I am guessing by your height you will though).
The only problem with not removing the shaft is it will just rattle and wobble around there. Could rub on a few things, but I would think being annoying mostly.
I have heard of people wire tying them to something. Sounds pretty ghetto to me but I guess most won't see it.
The tunnel that the shifter shaft runs through is sealed by a gasket between the inner and outer primary covers:
OP, I ran the forwards on my 10' Street Bob for a number of years and then went to the footboard setup. I liked the forwards, just wanted the boards more. I am sure you'll love the forwards.
Something that might be possible after looking at this pic. I know a good amount of people will tell you that you can use a hack saw on the lever running thru the case at the back side between the case and motor to cut the lever apart and avoid having to pull the inner primary cover. I wonder if it is possible to just get to the point where you have access to the lever (like in the pic) and just use a cut off wheel and cut the lever rod off and pull the rest out the back side of the case. If so, that would avoid much required work to pull the inner cover. Just a thought.
For you guys that want forwards and still would like another riding position via the mid mount location. I shaved down the stock pegs, drilled and tapped the pivot location and mounted shift lever pegs into them. Here are some pics.
Last edited by blueangel73; Jan 8, 2016 at 11:31 AM.
The only problem with not removing the shaft is it will just rattle and wobble around there. Could rub on a few things, but I would think being annoying mostly.
I have heard of people wire tying them to something. Sounds pretty ghetto to me but I guess most won't see it.
Keen observation and true.
The Kury kit I got has a "clip" that bolts to the inside of the shaft arm,, then you press it down and it kind of jams it against the inside lip of the inner cover out of sight except for a small part of the clip,, it's rubber coated and a pretty solid custom fit,, that arm/shaft ain't moving anywhere once it's in place.
I guess I'm pretty happy with the Kury kit #9063 I've got,, I can't complain at all. I think the only reason I'd remove that shaft is if I where to go with chrome primary covers,, personal taste here, but I've seen my bike (FXD) with just the outside cover chrome and it doesn't look good,, if I where to go chrome it would have to be both inner and outer.
Ain't gonna happen in my worlld, mines a working bike,, I wanna wash it and ride it,, not spend all day polishing chrome
Well, I'm going to roll the dice and try to install an ebay take-off forward kit to repalce my further forwards. Hoping I don't have to change out the shift lever behind the primary. Won't know if it all works until I try, I guess. Here's what I have.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.
