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Old Jun 19, 2017 | 11:42 AM
  #2321  
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badvlvo
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From: Marina, CA
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Originally Posted by nldoszfxdls
Sharing the latest mod on my Low Rider. 11" Lucky Daves Lucky 13 bars. Installed by myself with knowledge acquired from this forum.
Exactly the bars I just ordered for my FXDLS.
There's a lot of conflicting info on this forum when it comes to installing bars, and since there are a few differences with the FXDLS vs. the other Dynas maybe you could give some simple pointers?

Did you need to extend the wiring? If so, what method did you use?
What was your choice for the clutch cable? Why? How much longer than stock?
What was your choice for the brake lines? Why? How much longer than stock?

I've had people tell me you don't need to run wiring extensions, others say it's mandatory.
I'm also a bit confused as to why people claim the brake lines from the junction on the tree to the ABS unit have to be changed when swapping the others. They say it's for ABS function, but I would like to know the real reasoning behind it, as based on my experience, it seems like an old wives tale.

Yours looks great, so I know I will love the look of mine when it's done. Too bad it's going to be 6 weeks before they ship my bars.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2017 | 12:29 PM
  #2322  
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multihdrdr
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From: Nor Cal
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Originally Posted by badvlvo
...
I'm also a bit confused as to why people claim the brake lines from the junction on the tree to the ABS unit have to be changed when swapping the others. They say it's for ABS function, but I would like to know the real reasoning behind it, as based on my experience, it seems like an old wives tale.
...
If I'm understanding your question...

The junction "B" is an assembly...the upper and lower Brake lines don't unscrew.

So if you need a longer upper line "A" (which is part of the assy), then you need replace the other parts of the assy.






.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2017 | 12:34 PM
  #2323  
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badvlvo
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A and B don't separate, I get that, but I'm being told by the local dealer, other members, and other people in general that the lines that run from "B" to the ABS module MUST be replaced as well for the ABS to function. If they unscrew from the junction, then why replace them, other than increasing profit margins for the dealer or aftermarket in selling the additional lines and labor.

That's what I'm not understanding, but I understand how it is assembled. I'm not looking to cheap out on this, but I don't like to replace parts that aren't necessary.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2017 | 12:42 PM
  #2324  
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j0ney3
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Originally Posted by badvlvo
A and B don't separate, I get that, but I'm being told by the local dealer, other members, and other people in general that the lines that run from "B" to the ABS module MUST be replaced as well for the ABS to function. If they unscrew from the junction, then why replace them, other than increasing profit margins for the dealer or aftermarket in selling the additional lines and labor.

That's what I'm not understanding, but I understand how it is assembled. I'm not looking to cheap out on this, but I don't like to replace parts that aren't necessary.
I didn't replace the lines that run back to the abs module and my abs still works just fine. I have the LD 11" lucky 13s and did NOT need to extend any wiring (have fun pulling em through lol). Bleed the brakes really well, you won't have any issues. I'm also running the following for brake and clutch (+6 Fat bob brake line, +4 Fat bob clutch line)

Amazon Amazon

Amazon Amazon
 
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Old Jun 19, 2017 | 12:43 PM
  #2325  
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multihdrdr
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From: Nor Cal
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Originally Posted by badvlvo
A and B don't separate, I get that, but I'm being told by the local dealer, other members, and other people in general that the lines that run from "B" to the ABS module MUST be replaced as well for the ABS to function. If they unscrew from the junction, then why replace them, other than increasing profit margins for the dealer or aftermarket in selling the additional lines and labor.

That's what I'm not understanding, but I understand how it is assembled. I'm not looking to cheap out on this, but I don't like to replace parts that aren't necessary.

Correct, you don't need to replace the junction-to-ABS module lines. They unscrew.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2017 | 01:16 PM
  #2326  
nldoszfxdls's Avatar
nldoszfxdls
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Joined: Apr 2017
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From: California
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Originally Posted by badvlvo
Exactly the bars I just ordered for my FXDLS.
There's a lot of conflicting info on this forum when it comes to installing bars, and since there are a few differences with the FXDLS vs. the other Dynas maybe you could give some simple pointers?

Did you need to extend the wiring? If so, what method did you use?
What was your choice for the clutch cable? Why? How much longer than stock?
What was your choice for the brake lines? Why? How much longer than stock?

I've had people tell me you don't need to run wiring extensions, others say it's mandatory.
I'm also a bit confused as to why people claim the brake lines from the junction on the tree to the ABS unit have to be changed when swapping the others. They say it's for ABS function, but I would like to know the real reasoning behind it, as based on my experience, it seems like an old wives tale.

Yours looks great, so I know I will love the look of mine when it's done. Too bad it's going to be 6 weeks before they ship my bars.
There is enough wiring for 16" bars I would say, so no need to extend wiring. For the clutch cable I went with 66" Drag Specialties part # 0652-1428, that's 6" longer than the stock cable. For brake line I went with Drag Specialties ABS +6 part # 1741-3828. You will need to replace the stock brake line because it is one piece and you cannot just add an upper longer section. The job, specially wiring the throttle side, was very time consuming so take your time and analyze every move before breaking something. Good luck and feel free to ask!
 
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Old Jun 19, 2017 | 01:40 PM
  #2327  
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badvlvo
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Thanks for the info. Knowing that the wiring is long enough is going to make this much easier as I'm pretty good at fishing wiring.

As for pulling the wiring, any recommendations on how to do it? I fully understand the taking of time, I don't want to deal with broken stuff along the way. I'm shooting for having this done in time for the Hollister bike rally as the guys at Lucky Daves said they should be able to ship the bar tomorrow.

Since I'm a bit of a noob with the late model HD's, I'm assuming I'll have to pull the dash and the tank to pull the wiring, anything that might run across that will bite me in the *** if I'm not ready?
 
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Old Jun 19, 2017 | 01:49 PM
  #2328  
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j0ney3
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From: South Florida
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You're gonna want to depin all the connectors, other than that, it's just a PITA to get the wiring through but it's definitely doable. Enjoy those bars, I ****ing love mine
 
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Old Jun 19, 2017 | 02:30 PM
  #2329  
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nldoszfxdls
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Originally Posted by badvlvo
Thanks for the info. Knowing that the wiring is long enough is going to make this much easier as I'm pretty good at fishing wiring.

As for pulling the wiring, any recommendations on how to do it? I fully understand the taking of time, I don't want to deal with broken stuff along the way. I'm shooting for having this done in time for the Hollister bike rally as the guys at Lucky Daves said they should be able to ship the bar tomorrow.

Since I'm a bit of a noob with the late model HD's, I'm assuming I'll have to pull the dash and the tank to pull the wiring, anything that might run across that will bite me in the *** if I'm not ready?
You only need to remove the rubber cover on the neck and pull the wires carefully. No need to remove dash or tank. I also did not depin the conectors, the holes on the lucky Daves are big enough. Although it might make your live easier if you depin the throttle side or at least throttle connectors.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2017 | 03:20 PM
  #2330  
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badvlvo
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Nice, thanks for the info. You have provided more in one place than I have received from numerous "experts."
The de-pin is easy enough for me, and fishing wires isn't a big deal for me, just wanted to have all the parts necessary to do it in an afternoon rather than taking it apart and waiting for more parts to arrive.
 
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