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Thrashin Exhaust Install - Help!

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Old Feb 6, 2016 | 05:42 PM
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Default Thrashin Exhaust Install - Help!

Alright, got my new Thrashin Supply 2-1 bolted up (or so I'm hoping) on my 05 and took it out for first test ride. Immediately on startup, I noticed more vibration through the front end, especially with the choke on. (Btw, this pipe is replacing a heavier V&H Pro Pipe that I'd been running for about 7 years).

Test ride, bike feels great except there's definitely more vibration in the front end and foot pegs. Not excessive or super noticeable, but I've been riding this bike for 7 years so it's noticeable to me.

Pull her back into the garage, put a light on the front end and this is what I'm seeing where the front header meets the cylinder. The flange is definitely not flush, but when I tug on the pipe, it doesn't budge - so it seems like it's seated well? No smoke or obvious signs of leakage.

I do recall noticing that both exhaust flanges were a little curved when I pulled them off the pro pipe, but figured it might be normal since both of them seemed to be bent the same amount.

Let me know what you guys think...also, this pipe sounds amazing. Not super loud like everyone has been saying, just the perfect amount of grunt!


 
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Old Feb 6, 2016 | 05:53 PM
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Did you use new gaskets?
 
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Old Feb 6, 2016 | 06:00 PM
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No, they looked alright and they'd been changed when I had my cams done about a year ago.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2016 | 06:09 PM
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Loosen the bottom bolt a couple of turns and tighten the top bolt. Should be even after the adjustment. As long as your not leaking you should be good to go.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2016 | 10:12 PM
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Pull it from the exhaust ports, get new gaskets and re-torque down. Should put in new gaskets every time you pull your pipe.

Also, did you put the semi circle insert back in the flange with the new pipe?
 
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Old Feb 7, 2016 | 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by c-note
Pull it from the exhaust ports, get new gaskets and re-torque down. Should put in new gaskets every time you pull your pipe.
Yup, those things have a very light crush fit.
And pretty darn low torque values, and there is a torque sequence.
There are two kinds of gasket, flat and wedge, the wedge shape is for factory,, you might need the flat Screaming Eagle type.
When you re-install try this (from the book);
3. Position rear exhaust pipe clamp and bracket (if
equipped) on rear exhaust bracket . Install bolt
and washer . Do not tighten bolt at this time.

7. Tighten flange nuts, at front cylinder studs as follows:
a. Install lower nut and tighten finger tight.
b. Install upper nut and tighten to 9-18 in-lbs (1-2 Nm).
c. Tighten lower nut to 100-120 in-lbs (11.3-13.6 Nm).
d. Tighten upper nut to 100-120 in-lbs (11.3-13.6 Nm).

8. Tighten flange nuts at rear cylinder studs as follows:
a. Install upper nut and tighten finger tight.
b. Install lower nut and tighten to 9-18 in-lbs (1-2 Nm).
c. Tighten upper nut to 100-120 in-lbs (11.3-13.6 Nm).
d. Tighten lower nut to 100-120 in-lbs (11.3-13.6 Nm).

Get that? The support bracket has to kinda hang there a little loose as the flange bolts are torqued.
Good luck,
 
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Old Feb 7, 2016 | 09:53 AM
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Always replace the crush gaskets... doesn't matter if you did them last week... every time you pull the pipe.

If that did not seal well, you could be getting some air leaking in at the exhaust port, and causing some additional detonation of hot exhaust gasses... that could be the added vibration.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2016 | 10:43 AM
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Yes, I did use the cir-clip with the flanges.

I will pull the exhaust and reinstall according to those instructions, with new gaskets too. Question though - is it necessary to get new exhaust flanges? They are definitely not flat, a little warped...
 
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Old Feb 7, 2016 | 11:15 AM
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Shouldn't need new flanges.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2016 | 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Jackpoticorn
is it necessary to get new exhaust flanges?
Tough call across the WWW without the flange in hand,, but take a good look at how well the cir-clip rides in the flange.
Chances are they're good, but take a look.
 
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