Issues with up and downshifting
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Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 108
Likes: 6
From: Unityville PA
Issues with up and downshifting
Lately I have ran into some issues with shifting up and down. It first started with downshifting. When slowing down before stopping it would not let me downshift to the proper gear, it almost felt like the clutch was not engaging and disengaging? Hell a few times I actually had to pull over and work the clutch and throttle to get back to 1st gear. It didn't do this all the time just on occasion. Now its happening when up shifting. When going from 2nd to 3rd it feels like I got it into gear but as soon as I let the clutch out Im still in 2nd.... Its getting annoying. When downshifting I am blipping the throttle to keep rpm sync with the tire. Coming from metric bikes to Harleys is a different ball game when it comes to clutches or at least in my experience it is. What should be the first thing to adjust? The clutch don't grab until the lever is almost all the way out. I did check the clutch packs and there all in fantastic condition. Would this be a simple cable adjustment?
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,635
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From: 501
These scoots are some weird beasts. Clutch adjustment can be done in minutes. I recommend loosening the cable coming off the front downtubes. Remove the derby cover on the left and adjust according to the manual. I believe loosening the locknut, adjusting the center pin to touch then backing off a quarter turn is the written procedure, but don't quote me on that. Upon re assembly readjust the cable to 1/8 play at the lever.
The plates always seem to drag just a bit even when adjusted properly, thus I always start in neutral as it reduces drag on the motor and starter. Some have taken to starting in gear to avoid the big calunk upon shifting into first. Clunk can be taken out with primary chain adjustment.
My $0.02
BOB
The plates always seem to drag just a bit even when adjusted properly, thus I always start in neutral as it reduces drag on the motor and starter. Some have taken to starting in gear to avoid the big calunk upon shifting into first. Clunk can be taken out with primary chain adjustment.
My $0.02
BOB
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 3,217
Likes: 90
From: Detroit
Check to see that the shift linkage is moving completely freely with no drag or tightness. If the linkage doesn't return freely to the completely centered position after a shift, it won't accomplish the next shift. It's not that uncommon a problem with forward controls, where the shift lever pivot can accumulate dirt and grit pretty easily.
Last edited by Warp Factor; Mar 28, 2016 at 06:02 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 6,175
Likes: 1,966
From: Great State of Canada
These scoots are some weird beasts. Clutch adjustment can be done in minutes. I recommend loosening the cable coming off the front downtubes. Remove the derby cover on the left and adjust according to the manual. I believe loosening the locknut, adjusting the center pin to touch then backing off a quarter turn is the written procedure, but don't quote me on that. Upon re assembly readjust the cable to 1/8 play at the lever.
The plates always seem to drag just a bit even when adjusted properly, thus I always start in neutral as it reduces drag on the motor and starter. Some have taken to starting in gear to avoid the big calunk upon shifting into first. Clunk can be taken out with primary chain adjustment.
My $0.02
BOB
The plates always seem to drag just a bit even when adjusted properly, thus I always start in neutral as it reduces drag on the motor and starter. Some have taken to starting in gear to avoid the big calunk upon shifting into first. Clunk can be taken out with primary chain adjustment.
My $0.02
BOB
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 10,907
Likes: 8,758
From: Galt's Gulch - MI
Lately I have ran into some issues with shifting up and down. It first started with downshifting. When slowing down before stopping it would not let me downshift to the proper gear, it almost felt like the clutch was not engaging and disengaging? Hell a few times I actually had to pull over and work the clutch and throttle to get back to 1st gear. It didn't do this all the time just on occasion. Now its happening when up shifting. When going from 2nd to 3rd it feels like I got it into gear but as soon as I let the clutch out Im still in 2nd.... Its getting annoying. When downshifting I am blipping the throttle to keep rpm sync with the tire. Coming from metric bikes to Harleys is a different ball game when it comes to clutches or at least in my experience it is. What should be the first thing to adjust? The clutch don't grab until the lever is almost all the way out. I did check the clutch packs and there all in fantastic condition. Would this be a simple cable adjustment?
Begin with a correct adjustment of both the clutch pack and the clutch cable freeplay. If you don't have the Service Manual follow post #10 in THIS thread, it will walk you through the complete procedure.
A few hints: The friction zone engagement at the lever can be moved by the adjustment of the clutch pushrod, the pushrod screw adjusts the point at which the cable begins to pull the clutch out of engagement.
The service manual calls for 1/2 to 1 turn counter clockwise from light seat of the pushrod. A 1/8 to 1/4 turn of the adjusting screw reduces your friction zone and the clutch lever is almost all the way out from the grip before the clutch engages, a 1/2 turn is fine for most riders and with a 3/4 to 1 full turn the clutch lever releases close to the grip. I run a near 1 turn counter clockwise out from light seat as I practice slow speed drills and want the friction zone closer to the grip but over one turn and I don't have complete separation of the discs.
Use the cable adjuster to increase or decrease cable freeplay at the clutch lever bracket. Too much freeplay and clutch may drag and too tight the clutch can slip. If free play between the end of the cable ferrule and clutch lever bracket is more than 1/8" at the handlebar, the clutch may not fully disengage. I use a nickle to set the cable freeplay; if I can slide a nickle between the cable ferrule and the bracket my cable adjustment is correct.
Edited to add:
I just went and looked and I think you can find just about anything on YouTube these days!
Last edited by TinCupChalice; Mar 28, 2016 at 06:30 AM. Reason: Added Video...
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 108
Likes: 6
From: Unityville PA
Thanks guys! I think I will go ahead and do an adjustment and back the screw out 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. Hopefully with this and checking my linkage to make sure theres no **** to change the operation in the pivot points that it will fix this problem. Like I said it just started doing this. Last yr I rode for 3k and not once experienced this problem...
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 108
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From: Unityville PA
Well did the adjustment today. I rode it for a couple miles and all seems good. Now I did forget to mention that when I was experiencing problems it was when I have been riding for a good while. The long shift linkage from the foot control to the tranny seems fine, but I did notice that when in neutral that when I push the shifter down it has some drag coming back to the neutral postion? Going up is fine it springs right back. When I took it out for a ride it seemed fine but then again I did not ride it long.
Would the forwards being +3 on length be causing the little bit of drag? It does come back up on its own its just not "springy".....
Would the forwards being +3 on length be causing the little bit of drag? It does come back up on its own its just not "springy".....
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Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 108
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From: Unityville PA
Do you think the shifting issues could be fluid related? I hate to say it but it worked fine last season, this season I changed the primary fluid, and trans fluid then bam all this **** happened. Could it be to little or to much fluid in the primary causing this?
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Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2015
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From: Galt's Gulch - MI
Last summer life was a bit quieter for me and I experimented with 12 different fluids in the primary and there were some distinct differences in how the fluids performed; some were OK and some were downright bad for smooth shifting and finding neutral. And if overfilled, your primary can give you some odd shifting, sluggish clutch drag and possible plate slippage, along with difficulty finding neutral.
What fluids did you use in the primary and transmission? In the transmission use a proper gear lube, I posted the results of my primary fluid testing HERE
What fluids did you use in the primary and transmission? In the transmission use a proper gear lube, I posted the results of my primary fluid testing HERE
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 108
Likes: 6
From: Unityville PA
Last summer life was a bit quieter for me and I experimented with 12 different fluids in the primary and there were some distinct differences in how the fluids performed; some were OK and some were downright bad for smooth shifting and finding neutral. And if overfilled, your primary can give you some odd shifting, sluggish clutch drag and possible plate slippage, along with difficulty finding neutral.
What fluids did you use in the primary and transmission? In the transmission use a proper gear lube, I posted the results of my primary fluid testing HERE
What fluids did you use in the primary and transmission? In the transmission use a proper gear lube, I posted the results of my primary fluid testing HERE