I have a 14 Fat bob that has about 7k miles on it.

I had stock headpipes and cycle shack slip ons with a screamin eagle backplate on the aircleaner.

With the stock headpipes and slipons (still had the cat) the bike ran very strong with no decel pop and had tons of torque everywhere. Enough that when i first started riding it after the air cleaner backplate i'd actually be a little sore from accelerating over town after a while.

If i slammed into second at WOT the bike would routinely lay rubber for at a minimum 10-20 feet. If i dumped the clutch at about 4k in first it would just light the tire up through to second.

My head pipe cracked, so i found a really good deal on a Rinehart 2 into 1 full exhaust system (400 brand new in the box).

I put this on and noticed i lost a bit of torque. And the "second gear bark" is gone now. i dont have a tuner yet will be ordering one very soon.

I have noticed that the bike seems to run much better on the freeway and pull harder at freeway speeds (65 on up). I have also had it up above 100 a few times and it seems to pull to that 100 mark or higher a lot easier than before.

My question is, do you think ill get some of the power back from a tune? Im looking at the Power Commander 5 from Fuel Moto. Or is the down low torque gone because of the free flowing exhaust?

Thanks!

 

If the bike actually gets dyno tuned correctly you will get it back and then some. The exhaust didn't hurt the power, the tune being even further off than it was before did.

 

vdop's right,
Once you changed the pipes you opened up the air flow to the engine and you need to squirt more fuel.
A tuner will help, a dyno tune will help a lot more,, but it's all about the $$$ right?
Sounds like your a throttle junky and you'll eventually add cams or more. The Power Commander 5 is fine (and Fuel Moto is the right dealer to work with) but you should look at the long term investment.
I'm just guessing but I think the Power Vision will suit you better.
I'm running a PC5 on my 09 dyna and happy with it, but plan on no more mods beyond a Stage 1.

 

A number of things to think about, in case they apply:

If power hasn't been lost on the freeway (or has improved), it shouldn't be lost in lower gears. If you've lost the ability to lay rubber on a hard shift to second gear, could that have more to do with road surface temperature (how well the tire grabs), or how well the clutch grabs? (I've never ridden a Harley with a stock clutch that would bark the tire on power-shifting to second, the clutch slipped too much, so that part's kind of a mystery). So maybe something changed about the clutch, or tire adhesion?

When changing intake or exhaust, it can take the ECM some time to "learn" the new combination. How far have you ridden the bike since the change?

The ECM won't "learn" to get rid of decel pop though, because the air/fuel needs to be thrown off optimum to get rid of that through fueling adjustment.

 

Thank you all for the info.

Can someone help me understand something.

I understand that a Dynotune is the absolute best way to go. And may happen in the future.

But to dynotune it, they still need a Power commander or Power Vision right?

I called a couple of local places (dealers don't do it in CA anymore or atleast thats what i was told) and it was 450 for the power commander and 400 for the tune.

The bike may possibly get cams in the future, but itll be a long while before that happens. So for now itll basically be just the exhaust and maybe a better intake.

If they need a tuner to dynotune it, then i could buy the tuner from Fuel Moto now, and then have it when i go about to have it dynoed. I'd rather not waste the 400 bucks when a map from Fuel Moto will be just fine until i do more to the engine.

 

Yep, you have it right, the people doing a dynotune do need an aftermarket tuner of some sort to program the stock ECM.
And much to many folks displeasure/chagrin, a canned tune does just fine.
Myself as example, as I said I'm running a PC5 with a canned tune from Jamie at Fuel Moto. After I installed it I did notice a nice bump in performance, my 96cuin will walk all over all the stock 103's.
I know I could get more out of a dynotune, but I'm not ready to dump the extra $$$ on the bike right now for the minimal gain.
But I'm not beating the snot out of my bike like you are, nor do I expect to be able to.
I watch guy's burning up their tire all the time and to be honest I think it's dumber then ****,, like breaking the tire loose on a bike is supposed to be difficult? To me it screams rookie rider, I mean what's it take to hold the brake, twist the throttle and dump the clutch?
Want Cool? Get a sticky tire with a tight clutch, chirp the boot - lift the front end just a little - drop it and move the bike down the road--Quickly.
That's Cool. It's all about moving baby, not making smoke.

 

Stock headpipes and cycle shack slip ons are hard to beat. Best bang for the buck out there.

 

I concur with what you said. And the honest truth is most of my riding is on the freeway around 75mph or so.

And, yes i agree i do beat on it from time to time. But not every street light or take off. I ride pretty mellow the majority of the time.

I just noticed the "loss" of power when i did the exhaust because i wanted to see if i gained anything from the exhaust. But i probably do ride it harder than most.

I also agree that burnouts/spinning tires are not cool. Whats "cooler" or takes more talent is being able to hook and book. I used to dragrace cars, had a few 11 second cars and a couple that ran high 9's low 10's (depending on which nitrous pill i had in). Same game there its all about hooking and not frying the tire.

Its been realitively cold here lately so i doubt the ground was hot enough to hook that hard. I have purchased the Bennett heavy duty clutch diaphragm spring because frankly i hate the way it shifts. Hoping this helps out.

Ill give Jamie a call shortly

 

It definitely sounded pretty good and ran well. If it hadn't of cracked they would still be on there