Yeah, they're pretty soft. I buggered the threads for the drain plug on my primary cover. It's OK until the next fluid change, then the cover will need replaced.

If you're careful you could always do a helicoil from the inside, being certain the tap and drill don't break thru to the sealing face.

 

way too tight to attempt in my "shop" no good tool/press. Not a rush thing. The sporty is the primary ride

 

Good point. Now that I think about it, I couldn't go from the inside either.

 

Wrong about the seal. Theres a counter bore.

Ran a 5/16-24 die over the old cable and a 5/16-24 tap through the cover.... flew right through with nearly no resistance. Cable went right in. Tried new cable without die, went right in.

So... I totally jacked the outermost threads when removing the cable by not spinning off the cover vs wrenching out the cable via the 9/16 hex end. Oops....

yeah...

 

Cool. Now you have a spare cover, too.

 

welp....

definitely brighter but, they made some bizarre decisions in terms of quality and footprint. i'm not going to use them... will stick with the standard









the probeam elements are thicker than the the standards... so i couldn't get my bezel'd covers/caps no over the elements..... dang it! strike 1



they went back to the crappy sockets of the first gen vs the thumb twist versions on the standards... why? strike 2 and 3 (i had to replace a set because the cheap screw driver version failed.)






sucks... no harm done though. going on ebay...

here have so devil in my veins and harleys:

 

Cool, thanks for the review. FWIW, I use the CD 'standard' version as well
except I also use AutoGem real glass lenses (smoked version).
Seems to help hide the turnsignals so they dont 'stick out' so much....



thanks again,

T.

 

too bad theyy don't make a "just orange blinker" of their probeam

 

Got the replacement clutch relealse cover and derby gasket in.


swapped the goods over


installed newly wrapped wheel, release cover, and clutch cable,
did all the adjustment on the clutch (cable, primary, lever)
filled fluids and stopped for the day...

 

started to replace the throttle/idle cables and saw that i'll need to remove the air cleaner. i need to get new gaskets. will order later

moved on to swapping out the rear line and adding ride-on to the tire.

as was:
stuff:

• 3/8-10mm 20 deg chrome side bend banjo fitting,
• 3/8-10mm 60 deg chrome magnum banjo fitting,
• 3/8 chrome banjo bolt
• 16" goodridge Universal Brake Line Black W/ Chrome Ends
• russell speed bleeders (Russell 3/8-24 Speed Bleeders - R40526)
• classy 10 MM Copper Crush Washers
• Chrome Rear Master Cylinder Cover-46425-05A

Speed bleeder is the shiz. mad that job easier than it already is. no pump/open/close/pump. great. still don't trust it the air is all out like that last bleed on the front.

as is:
new exhaust gaskets, one of the worm drive clamps failed on the heat shield, will call bassani and get the size of the clamp and replace it. actually started the bike on the lift and ran the bike through all the gears to check the clutch, lift didn't like that. i actually registered how stupid that was as i was doing it...

off the lift and washed the dirties away.. took it out.




ride-on in the rear tire... took the bike out and forgot to put it in. tire rolled just fine but, came back and put it in anyway.