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I was not comfortable with my original mounting plate. I was worried that the switch was not protected well enough sticking out behind the plate. I decided to cut the stock mounting bracket and solder the protective tube to the new plate. This allowed me to mount the stock switch face plate to make for a better and more secure stock appearance. Stupid me, I broke the switch while taking it off my first plate and had to order a new one $$$$$ ouch!
Fortunately, I can still ride the bike since I wired in a 200 ohm resistor to a removable toggle switch that that I hid in the saddle bag.
that is a good looking set up. is a bit scary to think of how easy it is to hot wire one of these, just remove plug from switch and jumper with resistor and on your way. guess is good idea to lock forks when parking. be sure and post a pic when you are finished.
that is a good looking set up. is a bit scary to think of how easy it is to hot wire one of these, just remove plug from switch and jumper with resistor and on your way. guess is good idea to lock forks when parking. be sure and post a pic when you are finished.
I agree, it is scary that the bike is so vulnerable to theft. Since my bike does not have the HD alarm installed I ordered a Motogadget m-Lock Wireless Key that I will wire in series with the ignition switch to prevent bypassing the switch with a resistor.
I agree, it is scary that the bike is so vulnerable to theft. Since my bike does not have the HD alarm installed I ordered a Motogadget m-Lock Wireless Key that I will wire in series with the ignition switch to prevent bypassing the switch with a resistor.
Unfortunately I have to wait a week before my new switch comes in so I'll post finished pictures when I'm done.
according to their site, this eliminates your key switch, although I guess one could series it with the existing ignition switch and have a double shut off.
according to their site, this eliminates your key switch, although I guess one could series it with the existing ignition switch and have a double shut off.
I decided that is the way I want to go. You cannot select the ACC function just using the m-LOCK alone. I'm going to wire the m-LOCK in series with the Ignition Switch output for security reasons only. This will provide me with the ability to use the ACC function of the Ignition Switch yet defeat the chance of a bad guy bypassing the switch.
I decided that is the way I want to go. You cannot select the ACC function just using the m-LOCK alone. I'm going to wire the m-LOCK in series with the Ignition Switch output for security reasons only. This will provide me with the ability to use the ACC function of the Ignition Switch yet defeat the chance of a bad guy bypassing the switch.
that looks simple to do, only thing one is adding more relays in the circuitry. although any one that knows a bit of electrical controls could defeat this, the average thief is a dumb ***. may be better to just use a good lock.
that looks simple to do, only thing one is adding more relays in the circuitry. although any one that knows a bit of electrical controls could defeat this, the average thief is a dumb ***. may be better to just use a good lock.
That is the main reason I am installing the m-LOCK, the average opportunistic thief is a dumb ***. I cannot begin to tell you how many times I forgot to lock the ignition and walked away from the bike eg. gas stations, public bathrooms, Lowes parking lot etc. The m-LOCK will be well hidden so even if a "smart" thief tries the resistor trick, it will take him too much time to figure out how to bypass it. When I travel, I do lock the bike with a brake rotor lock and the fork lock. I agree, if they want it bad enough they'll get it, but why make it easy.
There is a set screw in the bottom of the switch **** that you loosen to remove the ****. I used a pair of offset long nose pliers to loosen the switch retaining ring. Once that is removed, the switch is free to be pulled out behind the bracket. Remove the wiring plug first to make room for the switch to pass between the cylinders.
Hi there!
Can I ask dimension of the face nut?
The mine has been scratched by previous owner, and I want to replace.
If it's a standard 3/4" opening and 1" on back, I can use lot of face nuts from vintage cars and trucks.
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Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
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Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
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Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.
