2005 Dyna street glide electric...
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Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
From: Barbados
From what I can see, one of your possible problems may be related to the accessory circuit, namely the orange/ white wire going up to your handle bar switch gear housings.
Double check your 15a accessory fuse, and not just a quick glance. If you have access to a multi meter, set it to dc volts & check across both sides of the fuse for battery voltage.
Also check your instruments fuse.
I take it things worked correctly before the bar change?
As suggested have a real close look at all the connections you made.
Blueangel makes many good points worth checking.
How did you join the wires that you cut? They need to be correctly soldered and covered with proper heat shrink protection for them to be effective and long term.
It is not uncommon for the original stock orange and white wire going to the bars to have a solder joint that allows one power wire coming up from the frame to then branch off to the indictor button, the horn button etc. Is it possible you cut that join out if there was one?
If you are able, remove the switch gear block connectors from the top frame tube ( can be fiddly to do) and disconnect the left hand switch gear connector.
On the main loom side of the left switch gear connector you've pulled out of the frame you will see an orange/white wire and a black/yellow wire pin terminal. If you join across these two carefully with a separate wire/ split pin and with the power turned on the horn should sound. Take care not to touch any other wire in case it blows the fuse.
You will also see a white and violet wire.....join this temporarily to the orange and white wire and the left indicator should flash.
If these now work then it certainly points to an issue with the wiring you've done on the handle bar wiring itself.
Double check your 15a accessory fuse, and not just a quick glance. If you have access to a multi meter, set it to dc volts & check across both sides of the fuse for battery voltage.
Also check your instruments fuse.
I take it things worked correctly before the bar change?
As suggested have a real close look at all the connections you made.
Blueangel makes many good points worth checking.
How did you join the wires that you cut? They need to be correctly soldered and covered with proper heat shrink protection for them to be effective and long term.
It is not uncommon for the original stock orange and white wire going to the bars to have a solder joint that allows one power wire coming up from the frame to then branch off to the indictor button, the horn button etc. Is it possible you cut that join out if there was one?
If you are able, remove the switch gear block connectors from the top frame tube ( can be fiddly to do) and disconnect the left hand switch gear connector.
On the main loom side of the left switch gear connector you've pulled out of the frame you will see an orange/white wire and a black/yellow wire pin terminal. If you join across these two carefully with a separate wire/ split pin and with the power turned on the horn should sound. Take care not to touch any other wire in case it blows the fuse.
You will also see a white and violet wire.....join this temporarily to the orange and white wire and the left indicator should flash.
If these now work then it certainly points to an issue with the wiring you've done on the handle bar wiring itself.
Thanks for all the responses!!!
Tourer
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 338
Likes: 82
From: England
Blueangel makes a very good point and is definitely the place to look first considering the accessory fuse is now blowing.
Place a blanket or such like on your fuel tank to protect it and then remove the clutch lever bracket and the front master cylinder bracket. Then undo both switch gear housings and have a close inspection of the wiring coming from them on both sides...pull back the black outer sheathing if necessary.
Did your new bars have recesses in them to allow the switch gear wiring to safely pass under the clutch and master cylinder brackets?
Place a blanket or such like on your fuel tank to protect it and then remove the clutch lever bracket and the front master cylinder bracket. Then undo both switch gear housings and have a close inspection of the wiring coming from them on both sides...pull back the black outer sheathing if necessary.
Did your new bars have recesses in them to allow the switch gear wiring to safely pass under the clutch and master cylinder brackets?
These images look familiar to me, LOL...
Much appreciated, Mike!
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Oct 25, 2018 11:56 AM