Fork oil for switchback
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Tourer
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 426
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
Fork oil for switchback
Hey guys, probably been asked 100 times but ive came up short on finding anything. What would be a good weight/brand to run in a switchback? I may end up lowering the front with progressive drop ins if i think it sits to high when it gets on the bike. Just would like some reccomendations
( my bike is not a switchback im just putting the front end on my fxd)
( my bike is not a switchback im just putting the front end on my fxd)
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 4,384
Likes: 8,742
From: Texas
Rider weight has little to do w/ optimal fork oil weight - more to do with spring weight
You're asking a deceivingly complex question
To keep it simple - 10W Synthetic (it a good compromise)
====================
My next question would be; how do you intend on riding - and over..., on average - what type of road
We can certainly keep this simple
Ghost
You're asking a deceivingly complex question
To keep it simple - 10W Synthetic (it a good compromise)
====================
My next question would be; how do you intend on riding - and over..., on average - what type of road
We can certainly keep this simple
Ghost
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,684
Likes: 4,294
From: Northeast, NJ
I'm running Racetech springs and Gold Valve emulators in my Switchy. Great improvement in ride quality and handling. I'm running 10wt Belray fork oil...no complaints.
A note on dropping the front....
I've put 13" shocks on my bike (1" longer than stock) as well as Pirelli Night Dragon tires (I believe they are a little taller overall in the rear vs. stock). My handling has gotten a little twitchy up front. I would love to be able to lengthen the fork by about 3/4" - 1", but don't have the additional length to play with. This would balance the fast steering with more stability. If you drop the fork (by which I assume you mean to shorten it), you will change the handling of your front end. Depending on how you like the handling, this might adversely change the handling by the steering becoming a little too quick. You can shorten your rear shocks to compensate, but then you're losing ride quality as well.
A note on dropping the front....
I've put 13" shocks on my bike (1" longer than stock) as well as Pirelli Night Dragon tires (I believe they are a little taller overall in the rear vs. stock). My handling has gotten a little twitchy up front. I would love to be able to lengthen the fork by about 3/4" - 1", but don't have the additional length to play with. This would balance the fast steering with more stability. If you drop the fork (by which I assume you mean to shorten it), you will change the handling of your front end. Depending on how you like the handling, this might adversely change the handling by the steering becoming a little too quick. You can shorten your rear shocks to compensate, but then you're losing ride quality as well.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 4,384
Likes: 8,742
From: Texas
Good stuff ^
Essentially shortening slider stroke by an inch - assuming everything else remains equal
If you end up using regular duty springs - 10W
If using HD springs - 15W
And unless you load your bike to its max carry weight often - stick with regular springs and adjust the preload to remove brake dive / bottoming out
Me doing it - I'd mix equal parts 10 & 15 to make a ~ 12W
Goal w/ oil is to keep tire in contact w/ the pavement - over a wide range of conditions - by correctly dampening the compression and rebound
Heaver the oil - slower it responds - both ways
And rauchman's write up about not getting front / back heights out of wack is correct - doing so will lead to a very ill performing suspension..., handling..., and twitchy-ness (there a fine..., but very definitive line between responsive and twitchy)
Ghost
If you end up using regular duty springs - 10W
If using HD springs - 15W
And unless you load your bike to its max carry weight often - stick with regular springs and adjust the preload to remove brake dive / bottoming out
Me doing it - I'd mix equal parts 10 & 15 to make a ~ 12W
Goal w/ oil is to keep tire in contact w/ the pavement - over a wide range of conditions - by correctly dampening the compression and rebound
Heaver the oil - slower it responds - both ways
And rauchman's write up about not getting front / back heights out of wack is correct - doing so will lead to a very ill performing suspension..., handling..., and twitchy-ness (there a fine..., but very definitive line between responsive and twitchy)
Ghost
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Tourer
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Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 613
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From: East Alton, IL
Keep in mind, oil doesn't hold the bike up, the springs do. The weight of the oil determines the overall springiness feel of the forks. 20w would make for a harsh ride better suited to a racing bike on smooth roads. 10w oil is a good overall choice for softer feel on bumps but still enough to slow the rate of compression and may prevent bottoming out on pot holes and high bumps. Also helps on those washboard intersections. 20w may actually let the front wheel come off the pavement, something you don't want.
Keep in mind fork oil should be changed about every 2 years so just replacing it with stock oil will improve the handling. Try some 10w and see what you think. It's easy and cheap to experiment with different weights from 7.5 to 15 w.
Keep in mind fork oil should be changed about every 2 years so just replacing it with stock oil will improve the handling. Try some 10w and see what you think. It's easy and cheap to experiment with different weights from 7.5 to 15 w.