dash, painting or powdercoating?
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Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 56
Likes: 3
From: Germany
dash, painting or powdercoating?
Hi,
what is your experience, what would you recommend? Pics?
Took off my dash panel from my Street Bob today. It´s painted in wrinkle black. I want it gloss black.
thx
what is your experience, what would you recommend? Pics?
Took off my dash panel from my Street Bob today. It´s painted in wrinkle black. I want it gloss black.
thx
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 931
Likes: 76
From: Buford, GA
I'll take the opposite route. Spray bomb that bitch.
Rattle can will work well and be durable as long as you give it adequate time to dry. It's hard to beat appliance epoxy for toughness out of a rattle can, but enamels will do the trick as well. Like I said let it thoroughly dry. Despite what the back of the can says, it takes days for the paint to fully harden.
It might feel dry, but underneath the top surface, it's usually wet. Give it at least 24 hours.
Back in the 60s and 70s a lot of people used spray paint and technology has only gotten better.
This is coming from a guy who powdercoats small parts out of my garage. It's tough, but rattle can is almost as good and much less hasel and cost.
Rattle can will work well and be durable as long as you give it adequate time to dry. It's hard to beat appliance epoxy for toughness out of a rattle can, but enamels will do the trick as well. Like I said let it thoroughly dry. Despite what the back of the can says, it takes days for the paint to fully harden.
It might feel dry, but underneath the top surface, it's usually wet. Give it at least 24 hours.
Back in the 60s and 70s a lot of people used spray paint and technology has only gotten better.
This is coming from a guy who powdercoats small parts out of my garage. It's tough, but rattle can is almost as good and much less hasel and cost.
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Joined: Feb 2015
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From: Germany
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Joined: Jun 2011
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From: Glendale AZ
I'll take the opposite route. Spray bomb that bitch.
Rattle can will work well and be durable as long as you give it adequate time to dry. It's hard to beat appliance epoxy for toughness out of a rattle can, but enamels will do the trick as well. Like I said let it thoroughly dry. Despite what the back of the can says, it takes days for the paint to fully harden.
It might feel dry, but underneath the top surface, it's usually wet. Give it at least 24 hours.
Back in the 60s and 70s a lot of people used spray paint and technology has only gotten better.
This is coming from a guy who powdercoats small parts out of my garage. It's tough, but rattle can is almost as good and much less hasel and cost.
Rattle can will work well and be durable as long as you give it adequate time to dry. It's hard to beat appliance epoxy for toughness out of a rattle can, but enamels will do the trick as well. Like I said let it thoroughly dry. Despite what the back of the can says, it takes days for the paint to fully harden.
It might feel dry, but underneath the top surface, it's usually wet. Give it at least 24 hours.
Back in the 60s and 70s a lot of people used spray paint and technology has only gotten better.
This is coming from a guy who powdercoats small parts out of my garage. It's tough, but rattle can is almost as good and much less hasel and cost.
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Road Master
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 931
Likes: 76
From: Buford, GA
Wash it off with a tac cloth and spray a real light coat of your choice of paint.
In 10 minutes, hit it with another light coat.
In 10 minutes, hit with a medium coat resulting in full coverage. Wait 10 more minutes and do another medium coat. Don't touch it for 24 hours!
If you want matte then you can start wetsanding. Start with very soapy water mixture and 800 grit. Apply very little pressure and work your way up to 2000 grit or 2500 for professional results. Keep the paper wet.
If you want gloss, wet sand the base coat down to about 800 grit.
For clear I always use Spraymax 2k. It's the best you can get, but read the safety precautions. Don't play around with this stuff.
For the 2k, I do 2 light coats followed by one heavy coat. This part takes a little practice so that you don't get runs, but I got the hang of it fairly quickly. It's not rocket science and there are some good YouTubes on it.
Most of the time that's it, you can do wet sand down to 2000 or so and finish with rubbing compound and polishing compound.
If your not satisfied, wet sand down to 800 and spray a light coat followed by a medium heavy coat. Then wet sand followed by rubbing compound and polish.
For basecoats that you can get locally, I like Rustoleum or Duplicolor. Duplicolor has better spray tips, but Rustoleum is cheaper and still pretty good.
For clear, the only thing I would use is Spraymax 2k. It's expensive and hard to find locally, but it is professional quality. It is also gas proof which is important. No other spray paint is gas proof. There are several competitors, but I always use Spraymax.
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Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 56
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From: Germany
thx,
yesterday I came from the airbrusher. He showed me black gloss powdercoated parts and painted parts. As closer you look, you´ll see big differences. I let the dash there, he sanded oem wrinkle up to 600 grit, then will paint it, primer, black and clear coat. Will get it back monday, will show then some pics
yesterday I came from the airbrusher. He showed me black gloss powdercoated parts and painted parts. As closer you look, you´ll see big differences. I let the dash there, he sanded oem wrinkle up to 600 grit, then will paint it, primer, black and clear coat. Will get it back monday, will show then some pics