I'm very interested in this, as I've been thinking about the same upgrade in my DX forks... RT valves, springs and oil...

I've been on the fence about doing it myself or sending my forks to RaceTech, as their labor pricing really doesn't look bad, and that would free up my limited garage time to focus on a few engine-related things over the winter. Hopefully your experience and result will help me decide!

 

F86 - Ill try to take pictures and post them. RaceTech is about 30 minutes away from me but I like to do all my own work so I know whats going on with it. I think Ive got the compressions valves down, but Im still stumped on the rebound valving.

 

You will need a collet or some type of way to grab the damping rod shaft and not ding it so that you can get the nut that holds the valve on. You might get away with double nutting the other end but if it takes a bunch of TQ to get the nut to move, you could damage things.

 

I'm going to tackle it after the snow hits. Already have RT springs, comp and rebound gold valves, oil and seals along with tools I think I'll need, so I'm looking forward to updates on this thread.
There is a video series on YouTube. It's old and it's dirt-bike focused, but it appears it will be a similar process on the DX forks. Parts 1-5.

https://youtu.be/gAYO4FIlv1Q?list=PL...My1nxUp3ELaXzk

 

Check out the build thread on my FXDXT build.
I put them in my front end.
There is a few pictures that I took as I did them.
Not to hard to do if you have the proper tools.

 

Thanks for all your input guys- so heres my dilemma, I got one fork finished but forgot to take pics, its cake once you figure out where everything goes. Was going to take pics and started to install the other fork and the gold screw that holds the compression valve snapped in half as we were tightening it... I was p*ssed to say the least. got a new bolt from RT yesterday (best part about having mondays off) and Im going to try and tackle it tonight when my buddy gets off work.

 

Thanks for keeping us up to date! It's appreciated...

 

F86 - No problem, Its a PITA to want do something yourself but have such little guidance available. That being said, I am unable to upload pictures for whatever reason. I can try and explain it without pics, but its difficult. If you want my honest opinion, save yourself the trouble and send them to RT or find a shop locally who is a dealer for them and have them install. If you've got any questions you can hit me up on Instagram if you have one. Its the same as my username here.

I tackled this over the last few days and all I can say it that its very frustrating. After using the HD service manual and experience from my previous bike (FXDXT) I got everything back together. The springs are installed and so are the compression and rebound valves, that was the easy part honestly. The vague part is how much oil to put in the forks because the manual doesn't give a measurement in a fluid amount, its measured from the top of the fork tube (with the tube bottomed out in the leg) and it states fill up to 4.4" from the top of the threaded tube. Ok thats what the manual says so it must be right. My issue now is that theres plenty of compression but 0 rebound whatsoever. when the brakes are applied, the bike compresses down, but does not rebound until the bike is under acceleration if that makes sense. My springs are fairly light, Im 135lbs with gear, so I have light springs. Im using HD type E oil, which someone correct me if Im wrong, but I believe it equals to 10wt.

The bike feels as if my springs are sprung for a 80 pound person. Theres just no reaction in the suspension. I know for a fact the oil measurement is correct and everything is installed correctly. Im stumped, the only thing I can think of is I need thicker fork oil, which to change requires to disassemble the entire fork and redo it all over again.

Sorry for the long post, but I like to try and be detailed. any advice is much appreciated. Im this close to taking it to RT since they're local to me and having them solve/fix my issue. I just want to ride the damn thing!

 

IIRC E is somewhere between 10 and 12 weight.. Sounds like either you have the forks binding or the rebound valve in back asswards.. What weight springs did you use? Stock is about 0.6kg/mm.

 

I have on my web site Uploaded on Oct 7, 2010 on how to do the job. I do not use RaceTech but the Ohlins piston kit. This is under my Buell section as all Showa 20mm cartridges are basically the same. This includes the non adjustable XR1200 & 2002~2005 FLT fairing models as well as the "NEW" (joke on you here) "Premium" front suspension kit on the 2014~Current models. Got a 2014~Current FLT model, go to your local INDY and pick up a 2002~2005 FLT fairing model take-off that were changed over to a twin damper rod system. The only difference between the two models is (pre/after 2014) the damper rod screw.

Amy does this Video step by step. Again, I do not use the RaceTeck products for that job. I get tired of explaining why you do not use heavy fork oil when you are using shims. Put some honey in a refrigerator and observe putting in that take out a spoon of the honey jar at both room temperature and once again after cooled. That is how your suspension acts. Want it slow than make sure you put in heavy oil. If you actually want the wheel on the ground than use the suspension for what is is used for.

You do not drill out any dimples! You use a set of Sof-Jaws to hold your 10mm shaft. You use a spring compressor to R&R your springs, you need that, if you do not have one, stop right now. You need an Oil Level gauge. Throw those 5.85Nm/33.68 lb/in, heavily pre-loaded (20mm), POS springs in the garbage and buy yourself a spring rate you need to work for you. Depending on the exact manufacturing date of your cartridges, you will need to remove the rebound shaft base nut and mill off the shoulder and use the one that should be provided. The rebound is on the shaft and the compression is the thing on your table with the black alan bolt. I guess the OP does not have the rebound kit part so maybe that is a moot point. Ohlins only sell complete kits with both compression & rebound pairs in a box. In all cases, you got to know how to re-Valve if the shim packs provided will not work out of the box, In the OP's situation he needs to go to RaceTechs setting bank and pick which shims the OP needs if they are not exact year, model, and rider specific otherwise you are pissing in the wind. Service intervals of cartridges are 10K miles and you need to R&R all shims as dirt builds up underneath them so they do not close & seal properly. Make sure your chosen component does have replacement rings for the pistons that you can buy at a later date.

I am doing this same job to 3 sets of XR1200 inverted forks today that is being converted over to Dyna application with my trees to put your trail at 4" on stock 29 degree necks.

IMO you will need all of the tools I use in the video. If you do not have use of all of them, my advice is to rethink your plan. I would also not use this forum to get advice unless that person actually will give you useful information and actually knows about suspension, your choice. Good luck with your install.