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I install the OEM gaskets and the header loose...I.e. the rear bracket is removed. As I tighten the flange nuts I jiggle the exhaust to ensure it seats fully in the gaskets. I tighten the nuts evenly across both heads as I snug the header. Once the flange bolts are torqued to spec according to the factory manual for a 99FXDX, I install the rear mount.
For one iteration I continued to re-tighten the flange nuts to spec every week...until a stud broke off. Now I only tighten them once and leave them.
I was really interested in the red thunder until SDC, nautical, and dead beat customs stopped carrying them just as fast as they started carrying them still unsure what happened there.
The thunderheader install instructions say to tighten the front pipe first. Then the back. Then the bracket and then the mount on the pipe. The bracket that mounts to the trans has some wiggle room. Make everything mate like it want to for support
Last edited by misfitJason; Jul 7, 2017 at 06:12 AM.
The thunderheader install instructions say to tighten the front pipe first. Then the back. Then the bracket and then the mount on the pipe. The bracket that mounts to the trans has some wiggle room. Make everything mate like it want to for support
Then I do not believe it is user error. I tried the thunderheader instruction technique after the 1st time they cracked. They still cracked again, and that's when I started using the technique I gave above. I take every care to eliminate binding and misfit.
What were you talking about "tower" gaskets on your previous post? Are those different than the OEM?
Another question...since I didn't install these originally, does anyone have a picture of the rear mount? If nobody else is having issues, then SOMETHING must be different on my installation. My rear mount is to an extension off the base of the oil sump and uses a rubber isolator. Does the factory thunderheader install use an isolator?
Well, enough said...or rather not said. I'll be going back to singles. I'd be willing to bet most of you guys running the T Headers have cracks but haven't noticed it yet. Like I said, you have an aluminum motor and steel pipes, so there will always be a lot of heat induced stress where the pipes come together. I also don't follow the idea of 2-1 increasing power, since the firing order is so irregular on these bikes. If you time the pulses for one firing pulse, it would necessarily be off for the opposite firing pulse. Singles can be optimized for the displacement and RPM range desired.
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