Did the rebuild kit include a new float? I only ask cause I've seen kits that don't

 

it did not

 

i think you'll be fine once you replace the float.

 

Float valve or petcock oring...

 

That hole is the bowl overflow and fuel coming from there means that your float valve is not seating either because the float is not adjusted properly and or the valve is worn out or the seat is damaged. If you have already installed one from an aftermarket kit, you may want to pull it out and compare it with the original. I have had mixed results using aftermarket kits and have found some of the cheaper kit float valves do not fit well and seat properly. If the seat has been damaged, then you are looking at replacing the carb.

This leak is not a big deal unless there is more going on. Everything worked like it was designed. Once you get a good fitting valve installed and properly adjusted you should not have any more leaking...

I would advise considering using MoCo parts in your carb. The OEM parts may cost more but the results are by far worth the extra expense in my experience. This seems especially true with the SE big bore CV carbs.

 

Clean and replace the inlet valve. Adjust float height to specification.

 

Accelerator diaphragm replaced? Mine hole and it leaked when running.

 

update
So, replaced all the gaskets and the float needle. I adjusted it to specs and even had the bike running. It ran very well. No leaks or anything with the petcock open for a couple hours. I closed the petcock and left it for a couple days because I have to get turn signals still. Went out to check the wiring on my signals and saw a couple drops of fuel below the carb. Opened the petcock, which two days ago was working perfect, and the carb starts to spill fuel all over just like it originally had been doing. It’s like I’ve never even touched it now. I’ve had it with this carb. I don’t know what else to do at this point. Ha.

 

It sounds like you have done everything right. I am thinking that your float may have a crack or something causing gas to get in compromising the buoyancy and causing the float to sink in the bowl over time allowing the valve to open. When you closed the petcock, you removed the fuel source and even if the float sinks, the fuel level in the bowl will not increase so there is no fuel overflow. When you turned the petcock back on after sitting a few days, the fuel leaked because the level rises in the bowl and the float did not so the valve didn't close.

There is very little you can do to ruin the carb body and if you haven't been scraping or messing with the float valve seat to damage it, then I cannot see how the problem would be with the carb itself. Also, if the valve seat was damaged or the valve was not the right size, then it would leak anytime the petcock was open and the bowl was full and not just when it had been sitting for awhile.

Replace the float and post your results...

Good luck!

 

i followed your footsteps in the exact order, went so far as to replace the float also and it still pissed. "WARNING"! the problem with these epa compliant carbs is that they dont have a float bowl overflow tube that would normally channel the issue through a tube and onto the ground. Instead it weeps past the cv slide and into the engine, past your rings and dilutes your oil. my hydrolocked once and fortunately was very close to tdc or it could have bent a rod. here is what i found, it was the ****ing petcock! it makes no sense! a few months earlier i replaced the vacuum petcock with one of those cheap $20 ebay valves. it worked for awhile and than the carb started pissing. after all the carb rebuilds, float replacements, oil changes, i put a pingle petcock on and it cured it. i have no explanation other than voodoo, or gremlins. above all else change your engine oil or you will do some damage.