Hydraulic primary chain tensioner

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Oct 4, 2017 | 11:03 AM

wlcjack

Thread Starter

Intermediate

Joined: Sep 2017

Posts: 27

Likes: 7

From: Brooklin, Ontario

Hydraulic primary chain tensioner

I have a low mileage 1995 FXD & am considering installing an hydraulic primary chain tensioner. There seems to be a number of different suppliers with varying prices. The York, V-Twin , J&P & many eBay offerings are made in Taiwan. Does anyone know if the Oregon Hot Bike one is made in USA or is it better? (The new wheel seals I just bought at the HD dealer were in HD packaging & marked "made in Taiwan".

Is there any down side in these tensioners? The existing factory unit is too tight at one point & almost too loose with one notch adjustment.

Thank you for any input,
Jack

Oct 4, 2017 | 03:35 PM

HD Pilot

Elite HDF Member

Joined: Sep 2012

Posts: 3,791

Likes: 57

From: N Texas

I run the Baker Attitude Adjuster and love it, not sure if they have one for your 1995 but Baker is a solid company.

Oct 4, 2017 | 04:18 PM

Dennis Lett

Cruiser

Joined: Jun 2017

Posts: 135

Likes: 12

From: Omaha

I got my auto tensioner from V Twin. It's made by York and it's a copy of the Hayden. So far it's been great, better than the manual one. I don't see the need for hydrauilc. Spring tension is sufficient and about half the price. Granted, mine is on a Twinkie, but I believe they make one for an Evo too.

Oct 4, 2017 | 04:22 PM

Durham man

Stellar HDF Member

Joined: Mar 2017

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I also run the baker armored attitude manual adjuster on my twin cam, but I run the stock manual adjuster on my 92 Evo with no problems. You should be able to get 5/8- 7/8 cold adjustment no ??

Oct 4, 2017 | 04:37 PM

Durham man

Stellar HDF Member

Joined: Mar 2017

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Dennis Lett

What were your problems with the manual adjuster?? I have heard some good things about the Hayden and some not so good. I would think the same would be for your York. Bad things being, shavings in your oil and over ratcheting and don't you have to ad spacers to them when they wear down?

Oct 4, 2017 | 05:03 PM

NORTY FLATZ

Seasoned HDF Member

Joined: Jan 2015

Posts: 16,013

Likes: 7,137

From: Sandy Eggo's North County

I had a high mileage 1995 FXD, for 21 years. Never changed the stock chain tensioner. I also donâ€™t do a lot of engine revving at stop signs or red lights. On decel, thatâ€™s where the wear occurs. Miss that old bike...

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Oct 4, 2017 | 05:04 PM

Jackie Paper

Seasoned HDF Member

Joined: Mar 2010

Posts: 38,586

Likes: 6,435

From: Honah Lee

Quote:

Originally Posted by wlcjack

Our old manual tensioners are the best thing going for older Harleys especially with some wear. What wears is the chain wears differently in areas from hard downshifts and clutch dropping runs. That is why you are seeing loose and tighter spots. The manual system steps in pretty big jumps. Most people do not realize this since most do not do their own work.

Make sure with your present sprockets that nothing is locking in like the auto tensioner does. If so your loose area will lock in and the tight will be super tight. Your bike will not work with an auto locking tensioner.

What I would do is find your tightest area and set the chain to the minimum when cold. Then if it actually is way loose at the loose area (more then an 1") I would replace the chain. If sprockets have any hook in them, also the sprockets. When you do it, index the sprockets on the splines to get the best true position possible. Mine will make a 1/8" difference in chain slop at the loose position by doing that. With the inner 10 spline and the 10 spline sprocket on the shaft extension, that is 20 indexes to find the best position.

Even with 1" slop, that is not a lot and probably what you fill is the compensator doing it's job.