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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Hey everyone. Hoping to get some feedback diagnosing my issue. I currently ride a 2017 low rider s with 5k miles and unfortunately came across a no start issue today. It all started from simply swapping out my risers. I swapped them out and starting my bike, my check engine light came on bright and strong. Some trouble shooting later, it turned out to be a ripped tbw wire. After re-soldering and reinstalling everything, she failed to start up. So now I have to run through everything again. Everything below is what I checked for..
-turns over strong
-fuel pump sounds like its priming normally
-wires that I touched were all connected
-all 3 fuses were good
Once I got to the spark plugs, they came out completely dry, so I am assuming my issue is something with fuel. Anyone have any idea what this could possibly be? Bike was running fine earlier today, so I'm pretty stumped about this. I currently don't have a manual to work with, so any help would be appreciated!
Forget the rest of the stuff. The issue started after you changed risers so that is almost certainly what is causing it. If the TBW sensor is anything like the one on the touring bikes, that is likely your issue. I have done a ton of bars on touring bikes and have had issues with that POS a few times. Lots of folks solder it and get away with it. I have too. But, I have also had issues before...It is even a more likely culprit on a Canbus bike like your LRS...They are super sensitive to changes in resistance and soldering can cause that change. Also, are you sure you didn't damage one of the twisted pairs? Start by checking all connections in the neck. After validating that is all good, check the condition of your twisted pairs. If all that checks out, you are probably buying a new TBW sensor. If I remember right, it is about 120.00...
Last edited by Northbound Southerner; Oct 8, 2017 at 03:41 AM.
Forget the rest of the stuff. The issue started after you changed risers so that is almost certainly what is causing it. If the TBW sensor is anything like the one on the touring bikes, that is likely your issue. I have done a ton of bars on touring bikes and have had issues with that POS a few times. Lots of folks solder it and get away with it. I have too. But, I have also had issues before...It is even a more likely culprit on a Canbus bike like your LRS...They are super sensitive to changes in resistance and soldering can cause that change. Also, are you sure you didn't damage one of the twisted pairs? Start by checking all connections in the neck. After validating that is all good, check the condition of your twisted pairs. If all that checks out, you are probably buying a new TBW sensor. If I remember right, it is about 120.00...
+1. I was told never to solder any canbus connections, due to the systems extreme sensitivity to changes in resistance. Im betting something in the TBW is out of range and causing your issue. And of course since you already ripped the TBW wire, its possible that whatever caused the initial damage (internal burrs in the bars?, a little too much force used when pulling the wires?) may have damaged other wires also. Id bite the bullet and replace anything you damaged and chalk it up as a learning experience.
Forget the rest of the stuff. The issue started after you changed risers so that is almost certainly what is causing it. If the TBW sensor is anything like the one on the touring bikes, that is likely your issue. I have done a ton of bars on touring bikes and have had issues with that POS a few times. Lots of folks solder it and get away with it. I have too. But, I have also had issues before...It is even a more likely culprit on a Canbus bike like your LRS...They are super sensitive to changes in resistance and soldering can cause that change. Also, are you sure you didn't damage one of the twisted pairs? Start by checking all connections in the neck. After validating that is all good, check the condition of your twisted pairs. If all that checks out, you are probably buying a new TBW sensor. If I remember right, it is about 120.00...
Guess I'm not lucky with this one. Is the "twisted pair" part of the wire harness? Thanks for your input!
Originally Posted by Mchad
+1. I was told never to solder any canbus connections, due to the systems extreme sensitivity to changes in resistance. Im betting something in the TBW is out of range and causing your issue. And of course since you already ripped the TBW wire, its possible that whatever caused the initial damage (internal burrs in the bars?, a little too much force used when pulling the wires?) may have damaged other wires also. Id bite the bullet and replace anything you damaged and chalk it up as a learning experience.
This is one hell of a learning experience. Lol. I guess ill more than likely have to replace and learn more about this canbus system. Thank you!
Guess I'm not lucky with this one. Is the "twisted pair" part of the wire harness? Thanks for your input!
This is one hell of a learning experience. Lol. I guess ill more than likely have to replace and learn more about this canbus system. Thank you!
The twisted pair goes from the switches to the neck where you disconnected it to run the wires. From that connector, it goes to the Body Control Module that controls your bikes electronics. Did you cut the twisted pair? If you did, you will have to replace the controls on that side of the bike. On the touring bikes, the twisted pair unplugs at the switches. For some reason, the Dyna ones don't...Before you replace it, try to resolder it. You may get a better connection and get lucky...Try to use only as much solder as you need to make a good connection. If you have flux available, use it. If you just jacked up the TWB sensor, you can just replace it and should be GTG...
Last edited by Northbound Southerner; Oct 8, 2017 at 08:28 AM.
The twisted pair goes from the switches to the neck where you disconnected it to run the wires. From that connector, it goes to the Body Control Module that controls your bikes electronics. Did you cut the twisted pair? If you did, you will have to replace the controls on that side of the bike. On the touring bikes, the twisted pair unplugs at the switches. For some reason, the Dyna ones don't...Before you replace it, try to resolder it. You may get a better connection and get lucky...Try to use only as much solder as you need to make a good connection. If you have flux available, use it. If you just jacked up the TWB sensor, you can just replace it and should be GTG...
I thankfully didn't cut those wires. I'll try cut what I soldered off and tie it together then wrap it. Thanks again!
I thankfully didn't cut those wires. I'll try cut what I soldered off and tie it together then wrap it. Thanks again!
To wrap things up, the issue was indeed the tbw. Bought a new unit and installed it, and lo behold she fired right up! On another note, it gave me a great opportunity to redo the wire routing. Thanks again!
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No start issue
