fantastic! thanks

 

If your bike doesn't have ABS I would recommend the Lyndall organic pads for the rear. You'll need an appointment to lock the rear in wet conditions. That's about the only complement I can give Lyndall pads.

As far as changing the pads on the bike; get yourself a beveled edge putty knife to pry the pads away from the rotor so they drop right out and the new ones fit without trouble.

 

Thats another thing should I do organic or sintered? I don't race, but once in a while I like to ride it like I stole it....and hard. But mostly I cruise.

 

Organic pads don't have as positive initial "bite" as metal sintered pads. This is very pronounced when wet. That's why on my non ABS bike I run organic on the rear; less chance of an over application (especially when wet). I run OEM metal sintered pads on the front. Organic pads are easier on the rotors than metal sintered. That said, the front is your money maker when it comes to stopping. Rotor life be damned.

 

To add to what Nomadmax has already posted, he's completely right that the front is where the majority of braking power lies and I fully understand his reasoning for using sintered brake pads up front. Higher initial bite, they handle heat and weather conditions very well; they're pretty much OEM on every motorcycle out there for those reasons.

If one is interested in using organic pads understanding their performance differences compared to sintered pads is important. Organics will have a lower initial bite, but have a predictable ramping up as they're applied. The lower initial bite will provide more control at lower speeds and the progressive ramping up of braking power does provide 'feel' at the lever as you approach threshold/maximum braking; sintered pads don't have that same 'feel' at the lever at max braking.

I am using Lyndall pads front and rear, my bike is non-ABS; I do practice threshold/max braking from varied speeds, highway down to parking lot speeds, and the Lyndall's have a 'feel' under heavy braking giving you the sense of where that threshold point is; stopping effectively comes down to your tire contact patch; you need to be able to apply maximum braking but still keep the wheels rotating; kinetic friction is much more effective and will stop you more rapidly than the static friction of a sliding tire and for me, organics are more effective in that regard.

If you do move from sintered to organics practice your braking techniques so you will feel the differences in how they perform. Simply changing them out and riding you might think for a moment you don't have a front brake; it's a learned skill and organics will change your braking techniques.

ABS, non-ABS, sintered pads or organics; knowing how your bike responds under heavy braking is very important but often overlooked; no other control on the bike can have the dramatic effect that front brake lever has

A good comparison of sintered and organics here: http://powersports-blog.denniskirk.c...ed-vs-organic/

 

^ Great post ^

 

Good deal! Thanks all