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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
As far as tire pressures go, I have no experience with your Michelins. But the Pirelli Night Dragons and the Avon Cobras both like a bit more pressure than OEM... I run my Cobras around 43 rear and 40 front...
Max Headflows's suggestion about vertical alignment is a good one too... Here's how I set mine:
Jimbogto68 may be onto something as well... If the front and rear ride height went in different directions, who knows what sort of steering geometry exists now...
I appeciate all of your input guys. Ive come to the conclusion that the reason Im getting the wobble on a high speed sweeping turn is because the rebound on the front forks are to fast; which causes the frame and the front end to wobble. I am running two inches over on the front end, and realized Ive altered the trail. I like my bike to ride high for the purposes of cornering. I guess the next best option to stabilize the bike is to get a quality cartridge hit to reduce the front end rebound. The progressive heavy duty springs Im running just cant handle my style of riding.
I run Andreani cartridges up front and ohlins divided chamber rear shocks with rebound adjustment and get just about no wobble except if I hit a big bump while leaning hard and fast. My bike is a 2009 fat bob with 25k miles, stock motor mounts and night dragon tires. These suspension components would be a big step up from your current setup. Lots of other options to look at as well, but I think cartridge suspension in the front is one of the best upgrades you can do on these bikes. You won't regret spending money on it.
I run cartridges also and it's the best money I've spent so far on handling. If you get some definitely get ones with adjustable preload, compression, and rebound because a few of the ones out don't have any adjustment other than preload(namely Progressive and Legends). I would have said fork brace because you're +2 in the front but you have one already. With cartridges and wide glide tubes I only needed a brace for the rain grooved pavement all over the place here and it helped with that quite a bit.
As counter intuitive as it sounds, try loosening up your grip before you go into the sweeper.
Aside from that I dunno. The 2010 WG I had did about the same thing but at much higher speeds. After trying all of the tricks I knew I attributed it to the relatively weeny wheel bearings. The 07 WG I have now is rock solid at any speed. I purposely went looking for an 07 to get the 1" bearings because of this.
I'm running Commander II's on my 07 Dyna SB (96,000 miles.0 Go for 32 f, 38 r psi. I have an 07 Wideglide front end with a 21" wheel, and the tall bagger air shocks. It changed the trail a few degrees, but it handles like a sport bike AND ROCK SOLID in the hi speed sweepers.
I run Michelin Commander II on my '14 Street Bob. Stock height. On the Michelin site, I found tire pressure recommendations and run mine to that pretty close. They suggest rear: 39.2 front: 29.4. So when I fill, I just bump against 30 and 40 lbs. Its seems to do pretty well. I weigh sub 180 all dressed.
I’ve come to the conclusion that the reason I’m getting the wobble on a high speed sweeping turn is because the rebound on the front forks are to fast; which causes the frame and the front end to wobble. I am running two inches over on the front end, and realized I’ve altered the trail. I like my bike to ride high for the purposes of cornering. I guess the next best option to stabilize the bike is to get a quality cartridge hit to reduce the front end rebound.
If this the issue
Originally Posted by jase_d
The progressive heavy duty springs I’m running just can’t handle my style of riding.
Then you're over-sprung - need standard rate springs
Option 2 - reduce preload on the HD springs by shorting the spacers
Thinking heavy duty springs are necessary for better performance is ludicrous
Unless one habitually over loads / or loads near - the carrying capacity of the scoot
Suspensions need to work - not be stiff as a damn rigor mortised corpse
Then you're over-sprung - need standard rate springs
Option 2 - reduce preload on the HD springs by shorting the spacers
Thinking heavy duty springs are necessary for better performance is ludicrous
Unless one habitually over loads / or loads near - the carrying capacity of the scoot
Suspensions need to work - not be stiff as a damn rigor mortised corpse
Ghost
Hahaha! Thanks Ghost! The bike handled well when riding two up, obviously because the springs met their minimum weight requirement. I cut the PVC spacers down a notch and what a big improvement!
Hahaha! Thanks Ghost! The bike handled well when riding two up, obviously because the springs met their minimum weight requirement. I cut the PVC spacers down a notch and what a big improvement!
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