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I also installed the aftermarket solenoid cover with the push button on it to bypass the need to electrically excite the solenoid and I had the same results
Terry sells a solenoid rebuild kit with the spring for the older style starters but not for the one I need
Was looking on the fish and it's not available. Appears you need a new starter.unless you find a part in a junked one. Still not sure why that would keep it from engaging fully. That I believe could let the starter engage however without pushing a button and is dangerous like that. I think.
Listen people I understand you ate all trying to help but I know that the spring labeled #27 in the picture I posted is the issue I also understand that it is a return spring however I would like everyone to understand this the end of the plunger does not actuate the starter clutch directly there is the return spring and the ball bearing in between and if you removed the solenoid plunger and placed the return spring over the shaft and fully compressed it you will see that the spring does not compress down past the end of the plunger shaft this is so while the starter clutch gear is not getting slammed into the ring gear on the flywheel this allowing it to easily shift into place while the two gears line up together instead of eating away at the two gears from sheer force this spring also along with the ball bearing acts as a spacer to create the proper distance of initial throw to get everything lined up then the spray clutch takes over and fully engages the starter clutch gear
my spring is weak and no longer applying enough pressure to do it's job so I added a second ball bearing to basically preload the spring
I understand this is not a perfect fix and if I had added to much of a spacer it would create an issue where the starter was staying partially engaged which could cause extensive and expensive damage however this is not my first rodeo
the dealership does not offer the spring I need in any capacity short of a whole new starter and I am not about to throw away 200 dollars when all I need is a 5 dollar spring
if anyone cares to return to my original post you will see where I asked of anyone could help me gain possession of said spring either new or used
the diagnosing is done all I need help with is spring the replacement part
Sorry But This is the only closeup I have of my *TERRY COMPONENTS * Solid Billet 3kW starter.....but this is also a 150 C.I. S&S Anniversary ENGINE - so you wouldn;'t need such a heavy duty starter with that much KW output........i'm not certain if H-D offers a rebuild kit for your needs,but it's worth investigating and asking a real service guy @ H-D who is at least familiar with Starters and the options to rebuild yours at a decent price and Guarantee their work . Good luck and lemme know how you make out .
Vince
This really made me laugh! Solid billet 3KW starter? First off nothing is billet on that starter. The drive end housing and body is cast aluminum and the barrel is steel. The Starter is a 16739N 2.0 KW starter with a harley davidson drive end housing installed on it.
Have you visited a n alternator /starter repair shop where they overhaul starters. A long time ago somebody on these forums discovered that Nippon-Denso and HD starters share parts, who figured. Maybe you can find a new spring there, if that is the problem. Did you change the electrical contacts that energize the solenoid? One thing and this is an FYI, I bought a new ETX-30L battery for my Roadie and the voltage across the terminals was 12.7 volts, after an all night smart tender charge the voltage finally came up to a respectable 13.1 volts. Good luck.
Have you visited a n alternator /starter repair shop where they overhaul starters. A long time ago somebody on these forums discovered that Nippon-Denso and HD starters share parts, who figured. Maybe you can find a new spring there, if that is the problem. Did you change the electrical contacts that energize the solenoid? One thing and this is an FYI, I bought a new ETX-30L battery for my Roadie and the voltage across the terminals was 12.7 volts, after an all night smart tender charge the voltage finally came up to a respectable 13.1 volts. Good luck.
Hi seniorsuperglideE8,
There are no contacts that energizes the solenoid. There is a single contact called the switch terminal that a wire is attached that sends current to the solenoid when the starter button is pushed. There are two contacts on top of the solenoid that the plunger contacts when the solenoid pulls it down to complete the circuit for the field/armature.
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