Cam Tensioners at 30k on an 05 FXDL?
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Novice
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 22
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From: Los Angeles, CA
If it helps ease your mind, I checked the tensioners in my '00 RK at around 30k and there was actually very little wear on them, meaning less than 1/16", like the thickness of my thumbnail. Still worthwhile to take a look at them to know what you're dealing with, but I think the hysteria can be a little overblown as to impending doom at X miles. You won't know until you take a look, easy to do as was said above.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 3,293
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From: PA
Second Axel size in 05's are the same as 2000-2006
Third fuel injection and carbs were offered as options on bikes from 2000to 2006..hence the "I" designation
Fuel Injection became standard on 2007 bikes along with the 6 speed and the 96 inch motor...that is what makes the 2007 the transition year....just like 2018 is the transition year for the soft tails
Not trying to bust your ***** but your statements are wrong. The OP should have the correct information
Last edited by Scudda; Oct 9, 2018 at 03:56 AM.
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From: PA
Yeah, it honestly just feels like a gamble at this point. For $5000 it seems like a pretty good deal, but I'm just overly worried it might fail on either the short trip home/to the shop. It bugs me that there's no real way to tell the condition of those things unless you take the bike apart.
I know people who had the tensioners fail at 5000 miles and I know people that have 70000 miles on a bike and have never looked at them.
I have a 05 fxdi and love it. If you like the bike and want it, then pick it up. I looked at my cam chain tensioner at 20,000 and they would have made 30. But I figured if in there then change the shoes. I went ahead and put new cams and bearings in for fun as well. The shop shouldn’t charge a lot to inspect the tensioners, but at that point you have paid the labor and new shoes aren’t that expensive .
I have a friend with a 05 road glide and he has 75,000 on the orginal shoes. Not that I would risk that length, but I also wouldn’t let it stop me from getting a bike I wanted.
I have a friend with a 05 road glide and he has 75,000 on the orginal shoes. Not that I would risk that length, but I also wouldn’t let it stop me from getting a bike I wanted.
Last edited by johnwesley; Oct 9, 2018 at 09:42 AM.
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Joined: Mar 2015
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From: Philly Suburbs
Honestly, if the engine runs smoothly through the usable rev range, I wouldn't be scared to ride it home at all. There very likely is noticeable wear on the shoes, and they probably should be replaced. If you really like the bike, haggle a bit and buy it. But you probably shouldn't buy the first one you look at, because you'll have no reference point as to how much value there may be.
If you decide this is the one, offer a grand less and use the tensioner issue as the reason. It is legit. Ride it home, watch some videos, get the factory manual, and decide if you want to do the job yourself or not. If you're going to open the cam chest (not difficult), I would do so with the mindset that you aren't just "checking," you're opening it to replace the shoes (a little bit more difficult). If you do this, there are aftermarket shoes that apparently outlast the OEM ones by quite a bit. Many people seem to like the "Cyco" brand.
If you really just want to get a relatively stock bike to hop on right away, and ride reliably for awhile without too much concern (other than normal stuff), you might consider a slightly later fuel injected model with hydraulic tensioners.
I'm not implying that the earlier bikes are bad, I prefer them. But there is some tinkering needed...
If you decide this is the one, offer a grand less and use the tensioner issue as the reason. It is legit. Ride it home, watch some videos, get the factory manual, and decide if you want to do the job yourself or not. If you're going to open the cam chest (not difficult), I would do so with the mindset that you aren't just "checking," you're opening it to replace the shoes (a little bit more difficult). If you do this, there are aftermarket shoes that apparently outlast the OEM ones by quite a bit. Many people seem to like the "Cyco" brand.
If you really just want to get a relatively stock bike to hop on right away, and ride reliably for awhile without too much concern (other than normal stuff), you might consider a slightly later fuel injected model with hydraulic tensioners.
I'm not implying that the earlier bikes are bad, I prefer them. But there is some tinkering needed...
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Nov 2016
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Honestly, if the engine runs smoothly through the usable rev range, I wouldn't be scared to ride it home at all. There very likely is noticeable wear on the shoes, and they probably should be replaced. If you really like the bike, haggle a bit and buy it. But you probably shouldn't buy the first one you look at, because you'll have no reference point as to how much value there may be.
If you decide this is the one, offer a grand less and use the tensioner issue as the reason. It is legit. Ride it home, watch some videos, get the factory manual, and decide if you want to do the job yourself or not. If you're going to open the cam chest (not difficult), I would do so with the mindset that you aren't just "checking," you're opening it to replace the shoes (a little bit more difficult). If you do this, there are aftermarket shoes that apparently outlast the OEM ones by quite a bit. Many people seem to like the "Cyco" brand.
If you really just want to get a relatively stock bike to hop on right away, and ride reliably for awhile without too much concern (other than normal stuff), you might consider a slightly later fuel injected model with hydraulic tensioners.
I'm not implying that the earlier bikes are bad, I prefer them. But there is some tinkering needed...
If you decide this is the one, offer a grand less and use the tensioner issue as the reason. It is legit. Ride it home, watch some videos, get the factory manual, and decide if you want to do the job yourself or not. If you're going to open the cam chest (not difficult), I would do so with the mindset that you aren't just "checking," you're opening it to replace the shoes (a little bit more difficult). If you do this, there are aftermarket shoes that apparently outlast the OEM ones by quite a bit. Many people seem to like the "Cyco" brand.
If you really just want to get a relatively stock bike to hop on right away, and ride reliably for awhile without too much concern (other than normal stuff), you might consider a slightly later fuel injected model with hydraulic tensioners.
I'm not implying that the earlier bikes are bad, I prefer them. But there is some tinkering needed...
Also, what kind of tinkering should I expect from the earlier years? The guy listed it as 5600, dropped it to 5000 to consider the repairs. I was thinking somewhere along the range of 4000-4500, especially considering the mileage.
And very nice bike! I've seen it on YouTube!
Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 246
Likes: 217
From: Phoenix, Az
I think you're on the right track. I'm sure the bike will last for your ride home. Give the bike a good once over then take it somewhere to have a look at those tensioners, and be prepared to replace them if they're too worn. Since you don't want to go to the hydraulic or gear kit yet, just have them throw in some Cyco pads and you'll be good for a very long time. If you ever decide to upgrade beyond that you'll have recouped your money by then so win win. Personally I wouldn't bother with anything beyond the Cyco pads, but that's just me.
Also, what kind of tinkering should I expect from the earlier years? The guy listed it as 5600, dropped it to 5000 to consider the repairs. I was thinking somewhere along the range of 4000-4500, especially considering the mileage.
!
As soon i I bought mine I went with the cyco pads. There is some debate on what is the best way to go, one side says gear, the others say just do the pads and yet the others swear the hydro set up is best. The last two seem to believe that if your cranks moves on you some then it would/ could be bad news. Anywhere from catastrophic to minor repairs. In my research I got some pm’s say that they went gears and the crank moved that cost them a motor. What surrounds those stories? Who knows. The general is go cams if you have the crank for it. As I said earlier I just went with me cyco pads and it’s been great.
Last edited by johnwesley; Oct 9, 2018 at 02:51 PM.
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Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Nov 2016
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Owner says he changed the brakes once and resealed the engine because of a slight leak at the heads. New rear tire.
Here's an album: https://imgur.com/a/69cvLoP
Last edited by Vectese; Oct 9, 2018 at 02:53 PM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2017
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From: Lawrenceville Ga.
I don't think people understand it's not just wear, the shoe material becomes brittle with age and heat cycles and can crumble potentially plugging up the oil pump and oil passages.
