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You do not need heat with a half inch impact. My Milwaukee 1/2'' cordless impact took it off with little effort.
Good to know. I REALLY like my Milwaukee impact but know that it has nowhere near the omph of a good air impact. By "little heat" I was referring to propane, not even mapp gas as I would be worried abut heat treat, seals, etc.
Good to know. I REALLY like my Milwaukee impact but know that it has nowhere near the omph of a good air impact. By "little heat" I was referring to propane, not even mapp gas as I would be worried abut heat treat, seals, etc.
Which one do you have? I have the M18 Fuel 1/2'' high torque. It has 1100 ftlbs of reverse torque. It has a few years old. The new models have 1400 ftlbs of reverse torque. It matches or exceeds a large number of the pneumatic 1/2'' models.
I do understand what is entailed and realize that just having the outer primary of puts you only 33% there. Maybe I'll save the 30T for when I do engine upgrades, I'll have to take the primary off again anyway for the clutch & compensator upgrades. Would love to do everything now, but 30T, clutch, compensator, chain tensioner, gaskets, etc. would be more than $1K which I cannot spring for right now. Of course, next year, the engine build will be that much more expensive...
Tools would not be a problem. Can fab up the locking bars, bearing pullers are fairly common, and although the nut is tight, with a little of heat a 1/2" impact should have no difficulty. worst case could put a 3/4" on it (but probably would not as would not want to take a chance & twist the tranny shaft).
You should do the chain tensioner with the primary cover off though
Which one do you have? I have the M18 Fuel 1/2'' high torque. It has 1100 ftlbs of reverse torque. It has a few years old. The new models have 1400 ftlbs of reverse torque. It matches or exceeds a large number of the pneumatic 1/2'' models.
I have the M18 Fuel 1/2" high torque. I do not believe that it has anywhere close to 1100 ft.-lbs. Don't get me wrong - it is a great impact and beyond convenient. Just does not have the *** that a good air impact does. And yes, this is with good and fully charged batteries.
At 4000 miles and a stock engine do you really think that the tensioner should be replaced?
It's not a question of wear, it's the ratcheting of the stock mechanism. If the primary gets warm enough that the chain loosens at any point the stock tensioner mechanism will tighten down and then be too tight for regular use. Replacement mechanisms lock in place for chain tightness at ambient temperature and don't tighten down unless manually adjusted.
..... Also, what are the pros/cons of a compensator eliminator? Should I leave the sock compensator in, put in upgraded springs or the eliminator? BTW, my bike is a 2008 Street Bob.
DO NOT GET A BDL COMPENSATOR!!!! (yes, I am shouting)
When I had mine installed I went with se vpc. Everything else was left stock. About a year after install my stock auto chain tensioner started over ratcheting. I also went with baker armored attitude manual adjuster. I also did the baker compensator even though I had no problems with the stock set - up. You will also have to adjust your speedometer. I went with Dakota digital. I like the 30 tooth mode a lot , would not ever go back. More grunt of the line and great on the highway. It is a very popular mode for Heavey baggers so even better for lighter bikes!
Curiou if you can assist me in calibrating my mod. Put a 30 and 70t on the rear of my 16 dyna fxdb and wanted to update my speed.
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